This may be a silly question but the answer seems very simple and I feel like I'm missing something.
Can I use the diyaudio store PSU board and an appropriately sized trafo to output 12-14 VDC and run my car amps at home?
Can I use the diyaudio store PSU board and an appropriately sized trafo to output 12-14 VDC and run my car amps at home?
Post working links to the pieces you intend to use.
One relatively inexpensive supply is one for a home computer. No one uses computers any more but you may be able to find a local computer repair shop who will sell old, used supplies for cheap.
Ebay is another option.
One relatively inexpensive supply is one for a home computer. No one uses computers any more but you may be able to find a local computer repair shop who will sell old, used supplies for cheap.
Ebay is another option.
The pieces? The diyaudio store PSU board (and associated parts) commonly used for the First Watt amps Universal Power Supply – diyAudio Store
Trafo...anything with proper VA rating and appropriate secondary voltage.
The one thing I'm not certain about is amperage. The amps I have (old Audio Control Model 25s) have 30A fuses on them. They'll supposedly do 300 watts bridged which at 12 volts is 25 amps.
Can these pc PSUs you're talking about supply so much current? Also, do you have a link of an example PSU so I have some reference?
Thanks!
Trafo...anything with proper VA rating and appropriate secondary voltage.
The one thing I'm not certain about is amperage. The amps I have (old Audio Control Model 25s) have 30A fuses on them. They'll supposedly do 300 watts bridged which at 12 volts is 25 amps.
Can these pc PSUs you're talking about supply so much current? Also, do you have a link of an example PSU so I have some reference?
Thanks!
That supply would not be practical. That's more like what you'd use to power the output stage of a home audio amplifier.
This is the most common type of computer power supply.
Computer Power Supplies | Newegg.com
For more current, you can use server power supplies. They can be a bit more difficult to be practical unless someone has already modified it to be more user friendly.
The current needed to run the amp depends on how you want to use it. If you want absolutely full power, you'll need a higher current supply. If you simply want something that will power the amps, you can use a smaller supply.
Figure that Class AB amps are about 50% efficient. Class D, about 80%.
This is the most common type of computer power supply.
Computer Power Supplies | Newegg.com
For more current, you can use server power supplies. They can be a bit more difficult to be practical unless someone has already modified it to be more user friendly.
The current needed to run the amp depends on how you want to use it. If you want absolutely full power, you'll need a higher current supply. If you simply want something that will power the amps, you can use a smaller supply.
Figure that Class AB amps are about 50% efficient. Class D, about 80%.
Thanks Perry. Regarding current, I have no intention of running the amps at full bore but nervosa dictates a PSU that never runs out of juice lol.
If you have a limitless budget for this, enough current for absolutely full power is not a problem.
Find a truck or similar battery. 100 to 150 Ah, use that, use a trickle charger or solar panel to keep it charged up.
Find an old battery that will not crank, it is good enough for amps.
Find an old battery that will not crank, it is good enough for amps.
Commonly used here to run LED lights at street stalls selling fruit / vegetables / cooked food and so on.
Some have solar panels on the roof, off grid power!
Some have solar panels on the roof, off grid power!
My preference is to build a non-switching PSU. But I'm not sure about the current demands - I'd ideally run two of these amps and generating ~60 amps seems a bit of a stretch. I'll have to ask in the solid state amp forum and see what those guys think.
The problem of building a linear (non-switching) is that there is a huge swing in output voltage from loaded fully to no load. Commercial supplies used for car audio have regulators which increases the complexity. I'm certainly not trying to talk you out of building something but if you simply want to use your amps, there are better solutions.
Put the chip amps in series, +/- 24 or +/- 36 volt amps. the battery current needs will be much less.
What are you trying?
60A x 12 V = 720 Watts, that is still 300 after efficiency drop, how big is your listening area?
As for fumes and acid, keep the batteries in a garage or ventilated passage.
Sealed batteries, the 5 year no maintenance kind, hardly have those issues.
What are you trying?
60A x 12 V = 720 Watts, that is still 300 after efficiency drop, how big is your listening area?
As for fumes and acid, keep the batteries in a garage or ventilated passage.
Sealed batteries, the 5 year no maintenance kind, hardly have those issues.
try any 12-14 volt 5-10 amp DC power supply and get a couple of those 2-5 Farad super caps and you are good to go. The power supply must be able to supply the rated current till the super caps charge.
Um, no one?
Kind of a blanket statement there.
I'm using one, and have one down in the shop.
And numerous friends have one.
I realize laptops and cellphones are out there, but....
Why even insist on running into incompatablility issues by using a car amp in the home?
......It was made, designed, for a car.
......There are plenty of "home" audio amps out there to choose from.
......It was made, designed, for a car.
......There are plenty of "home" audio amps out there to choose from.
I meant put the batteries in series.
But unless you are off the grid, you are wasting a lot of time asking for something that will cost at most $20 used.
Also car amps are designed for car bodies, frequency distribution can be different, and they need bigger speakers by volume.
I am 56, use desktop, because I like BIG displays, don't like peering at tiny displays on phones, tablets, and lap tops.
But unless you are off the grid, you are wasting a lot of time asking for something that will cost at most $20 used.
Also car amps are designed for car bodies, frequency distribution can be different, and they need bigger speakers by volume.
I am 56, use desktop, because I like BIG displays, don't like peering at tiny displays on phones, tablets, and lap tops.
Really I'm just trying to make use of the amps. I have 3 of them sitting around (would only use 2 - the 3rd is a spare) and with their onboard resistor settable crossovers, I can easily bi or tri amp a set of speakers. I have several home amps and am building an F5 so it's not a matter of *needing* to use them. Just trying to do something with these amps as they won't be going into a vehicle.
Here we call this buying a buffalo if you have grass...
Get rid of the grass, the sooner the better, models go out of date fast.
For the amps you will end up building many bucks worth of supplies, and the effort needed, while free for you, could be better utilized in a more productive way.
Get rid of the grass, the sooner the better, models go out of date fast.
For the amps you will end up building many bucks worth of supplies, and the effort needed, while free for you, could be better utilized in a more productive way.
