Finally bitten the bullet building my first open baffle. Using Dayton 2x PHT1-6 ribbon tweeter and 2x vintage Saba 10” alnico 6 ohm (dc reading 5.2 ohm for both) I will be mounting them on a live edge hardwood baffle of similar size to this.
Unfortunately I don’t have any TS Parameters for the Saba. I’m told they are very efficient full range. I will be using a dedicated subwoofer driven with class d plate amp. My question is how do I go about designing a crossover without any specs on the Saba’s. I will be driving them with a single ended set tube amp of up to 8w.
Unfortunately I don’t have any TS Parameters for the Saba. I’m told they are very efficient full range. I will be using a dedicated subwoofer driven with class d plate amp. My question is how do I go about designing a crossover without any specs on the Saba’s. I will be driving them with a single ended set tube amp of up to 8w.
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I am not a expert on speaker design but you will have to measure the driver. I believe a Dayton DATs should work.
Now that ribbon tweeter is 105dB sensitive and crosses at 2500hz. That seems like it may take a bit of work to integrate with a 10" driver.
This looks more fitting:
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayto...Motion-Transformer-Tweeter-275-094?quantity=1
Aurum Cantus has some nice tweeters but they are more expensive. Maybe what would be a good idea is to see if you can find a DIY design that shares a tweeter with that you may like to use. that way if the Saba doesn't work out, you have a backup plan.
Now that ribbon tweeter is 105dB sensitive and crosses at 2500hz. That seems like it may take a bit of work to integrate with a 10" driver.
This looks more fitting:
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayto...Motion-Transformer-Tweeter-275-094?quantity=1
Aurum Cantus has some nice tweeters but they are more expensive. Maybe what would be a good idea is to see if you can find a DIY design that shares a tweeter with that you may like to use. that way if the Saba doesn't work out, you have a backup plan.
Many thanks for your reply. I’ve only had a quick look at the Dayton Dats and wondering if I’m up to use it. I assume it will have detailed instructions. Update-just watched the YouTube tutorial looks relatively easy.
I also looked at both the Dayton air motion and the aurum as possibilities.
I also looked at both the Dayton air motion and the aurum as possibilities.
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Dayton dats is very easy to use. Quite handy.
However, much more useful would be if you have some sort of frequency response measuring capability. These days software is available for free, all you need is laptop and mic. I use umic and rew.
Once you can measure fr response, and other parameters like phase, distortion, decay..., you are all set.
Crossover calculators on web are only the start, they provide inductor and capacitor values, but they work with ideal conditions, not real drivers. Still, that's the start.
Then you modify based on real responses.
In the end thats what matter, not the simulstion, not the calculation, but the real response and listening tests.
Good luck.
However, much more useful would be if you have some sort of frequency response measuring capability. These days software is available for free, all you need is laptop and mic. I use umic and rew.
Once you can measure fr response, and other parameters like phase, distortion, decay..., you are all set.
Crossover calculators on web are only the start, they provide inductor and capacitor values, but they work with ideal conditions, not real drivers. Still, that's the start.
Then you modify based on real responses.
In the end thats what matter, not the simulstion, not the calculation, but the real response and listening tests.
Good luck.
Thanks Adason, I’ll go as far as I can then more than likely need assistance to refine things. My speakers should arrive in the next ten days and I’m reasonably sure they aren’t green cone.
Just one more thing. You want your open baffles to operate low enough, so you do not have gap between subwoofer and open baffles.
The bigger the open baffle, better low end.
You do not want to run subwoofer too high, otherwise you will localuze it, thats not good. Ideally you can have multiple subs, or just two, but placed close to open baffles. Like true woofers. Anyway, just few minor things which matter.
The bigger the open baffle, better low end.
You do not want to run subwoofer too high, otherwise you will localuze it, thats not good. Ideally you can have multiple subs, or just two, but placed close to open baffles. Like true woofers. Anyway, just few minor things which matter.
I have come across a diy 6bn8 push pull tetrode integrated with bass / treble control around 8 watts. Any thoughts on sound characteristics etc to drive my speakers. Good bad indifferent?
I don't know much about the 6BN8 tetrode. Outside of the drivers themselves, how you make your speakers is going to dictate how well the tube amp can drive them. If they are fairly sensitive and have a nice flat impedance response, that will help lower wattage tube amps do well. The sensitivity will likely be dictated by the woofer.
Study crossover design. That is going to be your biggest asset going forward. You could always go active. However, that is a whole nother topic.
Thanks Mike, as the 6BN8 is an unknown diy I’ll pass. From previous investigations many go with the likes of EL34 and EL84’s. I’ll get the speakers built first.