Yesterday I got lucky, scored a pair of roadkill KEF C40s.
Unfortunately, the tweeter coatings are dodgy, almost completely dissapeared on one, highly cracked on the other.
Careful work with Shellite (What us in Aus call Naptha) got the remains off.
So, the next step is to re-coat them, following the ideas in this thread:
https://pinkfishmedia.net/forum/threads/restoring-kef-c40-loudspeaker-system.293967/
But it occurred to me that I could use Damar varnish as an alternative to Shellac (I have both), however neither are ideal; I assume both will set hard, whereas the original coating appears to have been somewhat flexible. Opinions?, comments?, Alternatives?
(if the worst comes to the worst, I have other alternatives I could use behind the original KEF faceplates. Plan is to restore them to original to see how they sound, more to come whn I've got some pics & measurements sorted)
Unfortunately, the tweeter coatings are dodgy, almost completely dissapeared on one, highly cracked on the other.
Careful work with Shellite (What us in Aus call Naptha) got the remains off.
So, the next step is to re-coat them, following the ideas in this thread:
https://pinkfishmedia.net/forum/threads/restoring-kef-c40-loudspeaker-system.293967/
But it occurred to me that I could use Damar varnish as an alternative to Shellac (I have both), however neither are ideal; I assume both will set hard, whereas the original coating appears to have been somewhat flexible. Opinions?, comments?, Alternatives?
(if the worst comes to the worst, I have other alternatives I could use behind the original KEF faceplates. Plan is to restore them to original to see how they sound, more to come whn I've got some pics & measurements sorted)
I posted about this not long ago. If you go to the linked post, there are pictures of the before and after tweeter coatings in an earlier post. I've now done two pairs with good results.
With these particular tweeters, it is fortunate that once the faceplate is removed (four screws) the fabric dome and voicecoil can be removed, being glued to the plastic base in the above photo. The four rectangular holes fit to four similar shaped bumps in the magnet structure to align the coil and magnet.
The remaining coating can be removed with tweezers. Any bits still stuck can be dissolved with white spirit, then that is mostly removed with camping fuel/naphtha, and then isopropyl alcohol to try to remove as...
Hi - That looks good. What’s the process for succeeding at this?
With these particular tweeters, it is fortunate that once the faceplate is removed (four screws) the fabric dome and voicecoil can be removed, being glued to the plastic base in the above photo. The four rectangular holes fit to four similar shaped bumps in the magnet structure to align the coil and magnet.
The remaining coating can be removed with tweezers. Any bits still stuck can be dissolved with white spirit, then that is mostly removed with camping fuel/naphtha, and then isopropyl alcohol to try to remove as...