I'm rebuilding the power supply for an old solid state integrated stereo amplifier that has six radial electrolytic capacitors. They are as follows:
3000uF/35V
3000uF/65V
1500uF/30V
750uF/35V
500uF/30V
500uF/35V
I can find the exact values at Digikey but many are listed in the "Application" category as "Automotive".
I'm guessing for a power supply this doesn't matter but I just want to make sure before ordering.
The other categories such as "Audio" "General Purpose" "By-Pass, Decoupling", are any of these more appropriate for the preamp, phono preamp & driver boards?
3000uF/35V
3000uF/65V
1500uF/30V
750uF/35V
500uF/30V
500uF/35V
I can find the exact values at Digikey but many are listed in the "Application" category as "Automotive".
I'm guessing for a power supply this doesn't matter but I just want to make sure before ordering.
The other categories such as "Audio" "General Purpose" "By-Pass, Decoupling", are any of these more appropriate for the preamp, phono preamp & driver boards?
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I don't like doing this job 2 or 3 times in my lifetime. Before debit cards, I had to buy capacitors from the bins at the TV parts store. These might wear out in 6 years. The ST70 required 4 e-cap replacements. I now use electrolytic capacitors with service life of 3000 hours or greater, the highest I can buy. You can get that parameter in the selector table of digikey and newark. On smaller ones I can often find 10000 hours service life.
I find electrolytic capacitors from Nichicon, Rubicon, Panasonic, Kemet, Vishay, usually are made in countries not famous for lies on QA paperwork. The ripple allowed at their end of life is lower than some other brands. I buy industrial grade for audio and instrument applications. Since 2008 I have not had any of these fail. Nor did they sound bad. Automotive grade are not bad, but withstand extreme temperatures not usually found in hifi equipment or organs. I never buy electrolytic caps on secondary markets, only from authorized distributors. Newark will flag with an asterisk items that are past their shelf life. This means that you have to reform them with a 2 v charge before installation. I do this to any e-capacitors from my parts bins, as they may have passed shelf life in my inventory. Digikey once shipped me an e-cap that was 9 years old, for full price.
All the brands make 500 or 1000 hour service life caps for repair people that feel the lowest cost is the most important parameter. Or people making prototypes.
I find electrolytic capacitors from Nichicon, Rubicon, Panasonic, Kemet, Vishay, usually are made in countries not famous for lies on QA paperwork. The ripple allowed at their end of life is lower than some other brands. I buy industrial grade for audio and instrument applications. Since 2008 I have not had any of these fail. Nor did they sound bad. Automotive grade are not bad, but withstand extreme temperatures not usually found in hifi equipment or organs. I never buy electrolytic caps on secondary markets, only from authorized distributors. Newark will flag with an asterisk items that are past their shelf life. This means that you have to reform them with a 2 v charge before installation. I do this to any e-capacitors from my parts bins, as they may have passed shelf life in my inventory. Digikey once shipped me an e-cap that was 9 years old, for full price.
All the brands make 500 or 1000 hour service life caps for repair people that feel the lowest cost is the most important parameter. Or people making prototypes.
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Keep in mind that it's fine to go with a higher voltage rating. You may find caps which are less expensive because they are not automotive grade.
Use the same or up to 20% higher uF, and the same or higher DCV, as long as they fit the pcb.
And if the capacitor is just after a rectifier it should have enough ripple current.
No need for only "automotive grade".
And if the capacitor is just after a rectifier it should have enough ripple current.
No need for only "automotive grade".
If you want exact values then no problem. Automotive rated capacitors has wide temperature range which is good sometimes (robust). Otherwise extra capacitance wouldn't hurt if space/size isn't a problem.
On Digikey be sure to check both the "in stock" and "exclude" marketplace product.