Full time in an RV, remodeling to a very high level, want to build some great speakers with some nice style to them so looking at Walnut or other veneer, small to mid towers, full range with one or two woofers and I know better than put the looks before the performance but I need to make myself and my wonderful wife happy🙂
I have been looking at the MA Pulvia 7 for the wide range up top, cross as low as possible and still good output then one or two Pulvia 11 for woofers.
(if there is a different driver pairing I should use I am open to suggestions but we really want the copper type color)
Plan to use foil inductors, great caps and resistors, wiring, etc.....
Also need to be pretty efficient as want to at least try them on my 10 watt push pull Baby Sophia amp and then later on if needed build a good D class amp but I also like the idea of the little tube amp on the top end and a class D for the woofers.
I would like to keep them narrow as I can, 40-42" tall and depth can be up to 18" and prefer front port, horn mouth, etc....
AND, play down low enough I can get by without sub(s) but if not possible I will build in an Image Dynamics ID15 either sealed or ported behind them then the towers would have to be a bit shallower, no more than 15" but 12" better yet.
I know, DIY, I should figure this out on my own but I have a huge list of ongoing projects and dealing with some health issues sappy my energy.
I am willing to pay a reasonable fee to one of our well seasoned members here for help on this if required.
I have a good table saw, big router, router fence, circle jigs, etc though I will need more clamps and will be working outdoors under a canopy weather permitting.
Thanks,
Rick (formally on here as RAAMaudio)
775-309-3701
I have been looking at the MA Pulvia 7 for the wide range up top, cross as low as possible and still good output then one or two Pulvia 11 for woofers.
(if there is a different driver pairing I should use I am open to suggestions but we really want the copper type color)
Plan to use foil inductors, great caps and resistors, wiring, etc.....
Also need to be pretty efficient as want to at least try them on my 10 watt push pull Baby Sophia amp and then later on if needed build a good D class amp but I also like the idea of the little tube amp on the top end and a class D for the woofers.
I would like to keep them narrow as I can, 40-42" tall and depth can be up to 18" and prefer front port, horn mouth, etc....
AND, play down low enough I can get by without sub(s) but if not possible I will build in an Image Dynamics ID15 either sealed or ported behind them then the towers would have to be a bit shallower, no more than 15" but 12" better yet.
I know, DIY, I should figure this out on my own but I have a huge list of ongoing projects and dealing with some health issues sappy my energy.
I am willing to pay a reasonable fee to one of our well seasoned members here for help on this if required.
I have a good table saw, big router, router fence, circle jigs, etc though I will need more clamps and will be working outdoors under a canopy weather permitting.
Thanks,
Rick (formally on here as RAAMaudio)
775-309-3701
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Though not quite what I want I have taken an interested in the GR-Research NX-Studio kit even though it would have to have subs my wife and I like how it looks and I am sure it sounds dang fine. Danny recommends the slightly less expensive tower with same tweeters and dual woofers but I am not not to keen on how the drivers look.
AGAIN, I know, how they look should not be that important to use but it is so we are going that route or copper cones, etc with the MA🙂
And other speakers with at least copper dust caps or phase plugs.
I looked at the higher cost MOAP Mark Audio drivers but do not want while cones.
AGAIN, I know, how they look should not be that important to use but it is so we are going that route or copper cones, etc with the MA🙂
And other speakers with at least copper dust caps or phase plugs.
I looked at the higher cost MOAP Mark Audio drivers but do not want while cones.
Except for ability to shift air, P7HD got lower than P11. Use something more capable. May i suggest Silverflute W14. You could base your tower (aka ML-TL) on Scott’s basic design. We used it with a pair of W14 in Tysen V2.
https://wodendesign.com/downloads/Simple-SF-W14-MLTL-050221.pdf
dave
Not too excited about their stuff. Danny is good for a fair amount of misinformation.
dave
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I was hoping you would respond as I knew you would have very good advice🙂
I think I have used Silverflutes in something long ago, I know I have used and liked SB drivers in cars and home audio as well as many others.
We really want to stick with all copper colored drivers if possible, any of the other MA drivers you can recommend to build the system that way?
I think I have used Silverflutes in something long ago, I know I have used and liked SB drivers in cars and home audio as well as many others.
We really want to stick with all copper colored drivers if possible, any of the other MA drivers you can recommend to build the system that way?
The MA200 looks quite promising, more efficient than the P11, probably only need one per side if I go with a 4" or so FR driver with it.
The MA200 does have quite the bandwidth, perhaps it would be great by itself? That would be cool, no crossovers if so🙂
If I did use an additional smaller FR are they listed as gold, etc, not copper, any really good ones that match the color?
Or, are you still painting any of these, or other drivers you would recommend?
I like what you do with them, very much.
I can build most any design but much harder of course if I gets into curves though I have done that in car audio, good results, but I do want a rather nice looking speaker but then again, copper cones, nice hardwood, clean and simple design would be quite fitting so any others you might consider good for the MA200 and or second driver please let me know.
I had already looked at the different sites, Wooden, your link in your posts, etc....just having issues thinking to deeply right now, getting better, going to be fully recovering using diet, exercise, etc, no pharmaceuticals.
Thanks!
Rick
The MA200 does have quite the bandwidth, perhaps it would be great by itself? That would be cool, no crossovers if so🙂
If I did use an additional smaller FR are they listed as gold, etc, not copper, any really good ones that match the color?
Or, are you still painting any of these, or other drivers you would recommend?
I like what you do with them, very much.
I can build most any design but much harder of course if I gets into curves though I have done that in car audio, good results, but I do want a rather nice looking speaker but then again, copper cones, nice hardwood, clean and simple design would be quite fitting so any others you might consider good for the MA200 and or second driver please let me know.
I had already looked at the different sites, Wooden, your link in your posts, etc....just having issues thinking to deeply right now, getting better, going to be fully recovering using diet, exercise, etc, no pharmaceuticals.
Thanks!
Rick
I just reread the one of the treads on the MA200 with the MAOP5 in a stand mount, I can go with a stand mount but like towers better so how about those two together in a tower?
I know the MAOP5 cone is not copper, can it be painted without causing undo issues?
Looks like a 6db high pass and 12db low pass filter, not to costly to build but whatever the cost best to do it right.
I know the MAOP5 cone is not copper, can it be painted without causing undo issues?
Looks like a 6db high pass and 12db low pass filter, not to costly to build but whatever the cost best to do it right.
Thanks🙂
So, what do you think, MA200 paired with the P7 or is there a better driver in gold, copper, etc....?
So, what do you think, MA200 paired with the P7 or is there a better driver in gold, copper, etc....?
OK, been reading through the MA200 threads but not finished yet, thinking of something like the MA200 by itself in Frugalhorns.
Or one of the next size down copper, gold, etc drives in that type enclosure, have to look at the low end response, in both, still checking the threads.
Rick
Or one of the next size down copper, gold, etc drives in that type enclosure, have to look at the low end response, in both, still checking the threads.
Rick
I typed this awhile ago and forgot to post it.
Pretty sure I want to build FHXL, send an email to you about them with the MA200 or other drivers you many want to recommend. I will do the donation thing for plans, of course🙂
I am pretty sure I want to build the FHXL so please let me know what you believe is the absolute best driver for it, within a reasonable price range, up to a few $ each if worth it if I can get enough bass not need a sub(s).
I will look into the CHR speakers a bit more.
I would not have room for the 15's on each side of the space behind them so only want to go to this design if I can go sub less. Again I do not need massive bass, not into movies, just really good musical bass but can get fairly loud, play low enough for most music, etc. I listen to Jazz, Blues, some Rock, some classical...
Thanks again!
Rick
Pretty sure I want to build FHXL, send an email to you about them with the MA200 or other drivers you many want to recommend. I will do the donation thing for plans, of course🙂
I am pretty sure I want to build the FHXL so please let me know what you believe is the absolute best driver for it, within a reasonable price range, up to a few $ each if worth it if I can get enough bass not need a sub(s).
I will look into the CHR speakers a bit more.
I would not have room for the 15's on each side of the space behind them so only want to go to this design if I can go sub less. Again I do not need massive bass, not into movies, just really good musical bass but can get fairly loud, play low enough for most music, etc. I listen to Jazz, Blues, some Rock, some classical...
Thanks again!
Rick
DDVP-20(TQWT)
I think I have read everything I can find 3 times now and this would be an easier fit in out limited space but do like the looks of the FLXL much more.
Either way I go if I found I was not satisfied with the higher end I could add a tweeter up to and make it look and perform quite well but I would rather not do so if avoidable.
Since my streamer which all other sources will be plugged into has a good EQ I can tweak things a bit to tame things if needed.
Rick
FYI/FWIW, when I first saw the FLXL it reminded me of the EV Baronet I built as a kid, so maybe can have a similar performance in maybe a more compact package and square the sides if not corner loaded.
I am pretty sure going to build one of those two designs or if recommended something else that will work better build it instead.
If I can get down to 30 HZ I will be satisfied and skip the subs though I do have two ID15 subs in storage I wanted to build into the corners in tall, wide and not very deep sealed or ported enclosures. I will keep them in case I end up needing them for whatever I end up running as once the all out RV rebuild is done I will still need projects to keep me busy, and healthy🙂
Thanks🙂
Rick
If I can get down to 30 HZ I will be satisfied and skip the subs though I do have two ID15 subs in storage I wanted to build into the corners in tall, wide and not very deep sealed or ported enclosures. I will keep them in case I end up needing them for whatever I end up running as once the all out RV rebuild is done I will still need projects to keep me busy, and healthy🙂
Thanks🙂
Rick
EV Barronet, I bet that was great fun to build🙂
M first build was what now at least, not sure back then, a Karsonator design using speakers I took out of something or other, I do not recall but they sounded much better when I was done with them, that was a LONG time ago.
RIck
M first build was what now at least, not sure back then, a Karsonator design using speakers I took out of something or other, I do not recall but they sounded much better when I was done with them, that was a LONG time ago.
RIck