Hello all.
During the pandemic, I purchased an SB Acoustics Arya kit from Solen (including beautiful white cabinets) for a reasonable price. I am now getting around to building it. However there were out of pre-built crossovers, so they sent all the parts from their stocks.
For the low-frequency crossover, SB Acoustics specifies a relatively cheap iron-core 3.3 mH inductor wound with 1.2 mm diameter wire. But Solen included instead their massive 4" diameter X 1" high Litz inductor (part # L143.3), wound with 1.4 mm Litz wire (7 separate conductors in hex pattern). No complain about that substitution--kudos to the company!
The inductor wires are insulated with "Red Polyurethane Polyamide Enamel" as the website states.
How should I strip this insulator, prior to soldering, so that all 7 conductors are connected? I plan on using 63/37 rosin core solder because this is what I have in large quantities... Is the flux enough to strip the insulator off?
Any suggestion welcome!
--Christian
During the pandemic, I purchased an SB Acoustics Arya kit from Solen (including beautiful white cabinets) for a reasonable price. I am now getting around to building it. However there were out of pre-built crossovers, so they sent all the parts from their stocks.
For the low-frequency crossover, SB Acoustics specifies a relatively cheap iron-core 3.3 mH inductor wound with 1.2 mm diameter wire. But Solen included instead their massive 4" diameter X 1" high Litz inductor (part # L143.3), wound with 1.4 mm Litz wire (7 separate conductors in hex pattern). No complain about that substitution--kudos to the company!
The inductor wires are insulated with "Red Polyurethane Polyamide Enamel" as the website states.
How should I strip this insulator, prior to soldering, so that all 7 conductors are connected? I plan on using 63/37 rosin core solder because this is what I have in large quantities... Is the flux enough to strip the insulator off?
Any suggestion welcome!
--Christian
I love/hate litz. I wouldn't rely on flux to do the job. To ensure a much better chance of contact without contamination, I would un wind the 7 conductors back about an inch, and carefully scrape with small blade the insulation off of each conductor. I know, it is laborious but worth the insurance that once you have done this and tightly twisted to connecting wire to the batch, soldering will have well served its purpose. A mechanical connection is key to the best connection, before soldering.
You really need a solder pot to properly terminate Litz wire.
Dip each of the 7 conductors separately.
https://www.amazon.com/Soldering-Eq...pcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=A11Y7FBIJ2M89C
Dip each of the 7 conductors separately.
https://www.amazon.com/Soldering-Eq...pcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=A11Y7FBIJ2M89C
Hi all.
Thanks.
I asked the question because the search function on this forum did not return anything useful. But since then an external search gave some results. Some of what has been suggested in the past, including from this forum:
--Solder pot. Not worth it, I only have a couple inductors to solder.
--Acetone. I have some, will try it tonight if I can find it.
--Burning. Will try it if acetone not working. After it has evaporated!
--Sanding the 7 wires. As last resort...
And yes, I will protect my fingers. Copper is indeed a good heat conductor...
I will report back about results. Thanks again.
--Christian
Thanks.
I asked the question because the search function on this forum did not return anything useful. But since then an external search gave some results. Some of what has been suggested in the past, including from this forum:
--Solder pot. Not worth it, I only have a couple inductors to solder.
--Acetone. I have some, will try it tonight if I can find it.
--Burning. Will try it if acetone not working. After it has evaporated!
--Sanding the 7 wires. As last resort...
And yes, I will protect my fingers. Copper is indeed a good heat conductor...
I will report back about results. Thanks again.
--Christian
A razor blade knife makes scraping it off individually easier too.
However, a really hot soldering iron will melt and burn off the enamel as solder is applied. It is called "Solderon" enamel for a reason. I've found the easiest ways are the solder pot and a tweezer style soldering iron.
However, a really hot soldering iron will melt and burn off the enamel as solder is applied. It is called "Solderon" enamel for a reason. I've found the easiest ways are the solder pot and a tweezer style soldering iron.
LItz wire must have the end of each and every thin wire (in each of the 7 large wire bundles) enamel removed and tinned for soldering. You can't just scrape or sand the outside of the wire bundle. This is why the solder pot is needed.
For this purpose when I was soldering litz wire used in a tonearm, I made a tiny solder pot out of a copper pipe end cap (plumbing type). I have a 60w mains soldering iron for those 'non-precision' jobs where you just need heat and used one of its old tips, cut flat, with a hole drilled in the end. Then I drilled the copper cap and used a small self tapper to attach the cap to the modified iron tip.
Clamped vertically and heated up, I just filled the cap with solder. Then, I dipped the litz wire in rosin flux and dunked it in the molten solder. Worked a treat.
Nothing else worked. I tried burning and scraping and all sorts of methods. The solder pot tinned the wires perfectly and burned the insulation off in one hit.
Of course, you could just use the copper cap with any source of heat; the soldering iron just made it more portable.
Clamped vertically and heated up, I just filled the cap with solder. Then, I dipped the litz wire in rosin flux and dunked it in the molten solder. Worked a treat.
Nothing else worked. I tried burning and scraping and all sorts of methods. The solder pot tinned the wires perfectly and burned the insulation off in one hit.
Of course, you could just use the copper cap with any source of heat; the soldering iron just made it more portable.
Lay the Litz on a tablet of white paracetamol. Heat it until the heat of the wire melts the tablet. Let the tablet sink into the melt. The enamel will be cleaned off. Don't inhale the fumes.
Note: there is a slight chance this works with Aspirin, not Paracetamol. The tablets I still have are not recognizable and both the same form.
Note: there is a slight chance this works with Aspirin, not Paracetamol. The tablets I still have are not recognizable and both the same form.
Yes, it's aspirin apparently. although I haven't tried it. I read of that method when I tinned my tonearm wires.
Tylenol, I think.
I worked for a transformer company in the early 80’s while going to school. We used solder pots for litz. Stuey’s approach sounds spot on. Could use a torch too if that’s what you have available or the kitchen stove (but don’t tell the wife!).
https://www.homedepot.ca/product/aqua-dynamic-fitting-copper-tube-cap-3-4-inch/1000116885#
I worked for a transformer company in the early 80’s while going to school. We used solder pots for litz. Stuey’s approach sounds spot on. Could use a torch too if that’s what you have available or the kitchen stove (but don’t tell the wife!).
https://www.homedepot.ca/product/aqua-dynamic-fitting-copper-tube-cap-3-4-inch/1000116885#
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If scraping with an Exacto-knife the conductors will have to be separated (of course). The 1.5mm strands will be fine. For thin strands I would consider this, but if you a good feel for this sort of thing to begin with, then it works very well. Once the enamel is removed, then tin each strand. It helps to also wipe all conductors off before tinning. After that part of the procedure is done, then twist the conductors back into their original shape. Again, not hard to do if you have a feel for it. It is at this point that you can tightly wrap the new wire around the Litz bundle that you have prepared. Now you have a decent mechanical connection and then solder applied to it will finish it. Depending your preference, a crimp cap can be put onto the end, but only lightly crimping it to keep it in place. A twist connector or even heatshrink can also serve this purpose.