Wanna tell us what this is?
What is the Monacor replacement for the B110? Is it a drop in replacement or is there a special xover for this?
As I said it is the Monacor SPH135TC driver, and it was used in the Rogers 60th version. I think they used the standard 11 ohm crossover but with slight modifications as they used the Scanspeak d2008-551100 tweeter instead of the t27.
There’s a seller on eBay selling a kit of parts that includes this driver and a t27 lookalike:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/32617978...cMTCDDMRZC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
That driver can be used as 8ohm or 4ohm depending on whether you connect the two voice coils together. I think the simple cover in the kit might use 8ohm, but the 60th used 4ohm I think.
The bass extension I use is the AB-2 from Stirling but the svs 3000 micro sub is supposed to work well. Maybe less well with the 15ohm version that has a bit of a hump in the bass.
There’s a seller on eBay selling a kit of parts that includes this driver and a t27 lookalike:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/32617978...cMTCDDMRZC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
That driver can be used as 8ohm or 4ohm depending on whether you connect the two voice coils together. I think the simple cover in the kit might use 8ohm, but the 60th used 4ohm I think.
The bass extension I use is the AB-2 from Stirling but the svs 3000 micro sub is supposed to work well. Maybe less well with the 15ohm version that has a bit of a hump in the bass.
Or try this DIY build of comparable size with much better, modern, drivers.
https://www.donhighend.de/?page_id=10452
https://www.donhighend.de/?page_id=10452
I'm already using modern drivers - SEAS in my Stirling LS3/5as - much more capable and performant.
It seems most people prefer a peaky midrange, flabby/slow/bloated bass and the need to carefully select the music that makes your LS3/5as sound good, rather than being able to play anything.
It seems most people prefer a peaky midrange, flabby/slow/bloated bass and the need to carefully select the music that makes your LS3/5as sound good, rather than being able to play anything.
These smoked the Roger’s LS3/5A i had at the same time, pretty close to the same size (turned sideways).
This driver is MIA now, but P7HD works well.
dave
If you wish to go that way.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/25681938...hINYLKb9/OhkWUF469XZslMA==|tkp:Bk9SR7qGktWiZQ
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/25681938...hINYLKb9/OhkWUF469XZslMA==|tkp:Bk9SR7qGktWiZQ
Just been ROTFL at the wikipedia page on LS3/5a.
I have first hand knowledge of what at least one department of the BBC in the 90s thought ... and direct knowledge of KEF in that period too.
There are efforts to 'recreate' the LS3/5a sound. I'm not sure they meet the standards of at least one dept. of the BBC ... that which actually bought, selected & checked them out for the BBC. I might be wrong. It's been nearly 30 yrs since this was really important to me.
Can you make a speaker that sounds like a BBC LS3/5a? Of course. And you don't even have to use the same units. But I don't think you can select another unit and just drop it in .. even with a few tweaks to the xover. And lastly, I'm not sure you can achieve the consistency that the BBC (at least in the 90s) demanded of their LS3/5a s
I have first hand knowledge of what at least one department of the BBC in the 90s thought ... and direct knowledge of KEF in that period too.
There are efforts to 'recreate' the LS3/5a sound. I'm not sure they meet the standards of at least one dept. of the BBC ... that which actually bought, selected & checked them out for the BBC. I might be wrong. It's been nearly 30 yrs since this was really important to me.
Can you make a speaker that sounds like a BBC LS3/5a? Of course. And you don't even have to use the same units. But I don't think you can select another unit and just drop it in .. even with a few tweaks to the xover. And lastly, I'm not sure you can achieve the consistency that the BBC (at least in the 90s) demanded of their LS3/5a s
Stirling and Graham Audio both have recreated the sound of the ls3/5a but with using different drivers, and because those are modern drivers from SEAS and Volt they are extremely consistent in performance and basically match out of the box, certainly well enough for a grade 2 monitor.
I also built the LS 3/5a myself, following the construction standards, type of wood, damping and phono-absorbing material to the letter. if you want to get to listening to the LS 3/5a as if they were a pair of Rogers, you have to get the best components and the 15ohm crossover.
Is it possible to see how you made them?