Does anyone know what might cause this noise or where to start the diagnosis process?
Preamp, cables, speakers and source are all known to be functioning. This is a new to me 216 amplifier and the first time I have used it.
Inside I did not see anything that immediately stuck out to me but my knowledge of electronics is limited.
Video of the problem:
Preamp, cables, speakers and source are all known to be functioning. This is a new to me 216 amplifier and the first time I have used it.
Inside I did not see anything that immediately stuck out to me but my knowledge of electronics is limited.
Video of the problem:
Diagnosis: Does it have a headphone jack. How does it sound? ok or broken.
Here is a related thread "NAD 216 - Is it worth restoring/saving?"
Otherwise:
Here is a related thread "NAD 216 - Is it worth restoring/saving?"
Otherwise:
Hi Ejs811,
Unplug the input with power off. Install shorting RCA plugs if you have them. Turn power on.
Does it still crack? Both or one channel?
If it's both channels, I would suspect the 67 volt regulators. If it is a single channel, could be many things.
If you are not familiar with servicing electronics, don't attempt to service this. The person repairing it should be extremely familiar with audio electronics and have at least an oscilloscope, a really good meter and also a distortion meter or analyser with 8R dummy loads. If you consider allowing someone to work on it without these things, save yourself some trouble. Pour gasoline on it, light it and walk away.
I may sound harsh, but I am sick to death of cleaning up after people who just decide they know what they are doing. A person without the equipment I listed does not know what they are doing, and if they say they don't need these things (and more), they for sure haven't a clue. It will cost more to repair after someone plays inside. If they get it making sound (they say it's working), chances are the distortion is way higher than it should be.
Unplug the input with power off. Install shorting RCA plugs if you have them. Turn power on.
Does it still crack? Both or one channel?
If it's both channels, I would suspect the 67 volt regulators. If it is a single channel, could be many things.
If you are not familiar with servicing electronics, don't attempt to service this. The person repairing it should be extremely familiar with audio electronics and have at least an oscilloscope, a really good meter and also a distortion meter or analyser with 8R dummy loads. If you consider allowing someone to work on it without these things, save yourself some trouble. Pour gasoline on it, light it and walk away.
I may sound harsh, but I am sick to death of cleaning up after people who just decide they know what they are doing. A person without the equipment I listed does not know what they are doing, and if they say they don't need these things (and more), they for sure haven't a clue. It will cost more to repair after someone plays inside. If they get it making sound (they say it's working), chances are the distortion is way higher than it should be.
Get a quote for the work first. It could cost more to repair than you should pay for that amplifier.
That's cool.
No harm in figuring out what went on though. It's a good learning experience. Your shop should give you an itemized parts list and list of what was done. Don't do a "recap", just replace some smaller power supply caps and anything necessary. I think there were a couple where the filter caps were terrible and those really need to be replaced. I looked at a C372 like that.
One thing I should mention in response to Ray's comment. He is right, get an estimate if it's going to be above a certain reasonable amount. But remember that a used piece will need similar things that yours does in all likelihood. Like a car, an as-is replacement is also going to need work. You are not getting something that performs like new. So your unit (properly repaired) is worth a lot more than a used one.
I normally say that if it is a reliable model, repair it and keep it. It's value has zero to do with the used market, just like a restored car value is far above the as-is type of car. Another way to look at it, what is a new one with similar build quality and performance worth? Build quality is normally the hard part to figure out. I'm not trying to talk you into anything. I'm trying to have people consider realistically what they should pay to repair something - whatever it is.
If the shop tells you it shouldn't be repaired, believe them if they are reputable.
No harm in figuring out what went on though. It's a good learning experience. Your shop should give you an itemized parts list and list of what was done. Don't do a "recap", just replace some smaller power supply caps and anything necessary. I think there were a couple where the filter caps were terrible and those really need to be replaced. I looked at a C372 like that.
One thing I should mention in response to Ray's comment. He is right, get an estimate if it's going to be above a certain reasonable amount. But remember that a used piece will need similar things that yours does in all likelihood. Like a car, an as-is replacement is also going to need work. You are not getting something that performs like new. So your unit (properly repaired) is worth a lot more than a used one.
I normally say that if it is a reliable model, repair it and keep it. It's value has zero to do with the used market, just like a restored car value is far above the as-is type of car. Another way to look at it, what is a new one with similar build quality and performance worth? Build quality is normally the hard part to figure out. I'm not trying to talk you into anything. I'm trying to have people consider realistically what they should pay to repair something - whatever it is.
If the shop tells you it shouldn't be repaired, believe them if they are reputable.
For those wondering, it was an open resistor in the power supply that was causing this issue.
That was fast. What did the repair cost?
Sounds very much like it is picking up your wifi signal. Is your router or any WiFi device right next to it?
$100 USD.That was fast. What did the repair cost?
Must be intermittent. It may have been a solder connection. That's 330R 1 watt, in series with the negative regulator.
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