Hello,
I have an old stax extension cable whose plug got broken solder joints inside. It has pins of the same type as this one but in a different housing:
I understand it was made by amphenol way back then. Since it is a very old part I'm having trouble finding any info on how to properly solder wires to these pierced pins...
Of course it can't be soldered pointing up like this 😎
I tried soldering with the plug pointing downward at a slight angle with the wires sticking out, it kind of works but I had to file the pointy wire that was left and I'm not sure there is a very good wire contact surface in there. I can't help but think there is a better way.
Closest thing I found to a solution is the so-called "flooding" technique :
I think could do it on my heat resistant silicone mat. I'm guessing one has to develop a "feel" of the degree of solder hardness when pushing down the wires while reheating the solder... then try not to move the wire while the solder hardens again. Wires probably need to be tinned prior in order to have some rigidity.
If that is the correct procedure I will proceed to do it although it seems rather cumbersome.
Thanks in advance for any insights ! !
-Joris
I have an old stax extension cable whose plug got broken solder joints inside. It has pins of the same type as this one but in a different housing:
I understand it was made by amphenol way back then. Since it is a very old part I'm having trouble finding any info on how to properly solder wires to these pierced pins...
Of course it can't be soldered pointing up like this 😎
I tried soldering with the plug pointing downward at a slight angle with the wires sticking out, it kind of works but I had to file the pointy wire that was left and I'm not sure there is a very good wire contact surface in there. I can't help but think there is a better way.
Closest thing I found to a solution is the so-called "flooding" technique :
- With the plug facing down flush on a heat resistant surface, flow a bit of solder in each pin then wait for it to solidify
- Slide the wires in each pin until they touch the hardened solder
- Re-heat each pin to melt the solder and push the wire down in it, holding until it hardens again.
If that is the correct procedure I will proceed to do it although it seems rather cumbersome.
Thanks in advance for any insights ! !
-Joris
Fixate the plug so the pins are horizontal. Clean your solder tip so it is absolutely clean and has no liquid solder on it. Apply heat to the outside of the pin. Feed solder on the inside of the pin until it is half full. Since these are old plugs, you might want to apply a dash of resin flux to the inside of the pin.
Then liberally tin the wire. Reheat the pin from the outside until the solder melts. Insert the wire in down to three quarters of the pin. Hold the wire steady until the solder solidifies.
(Maybe it is better to tin all wires first and then fill all pins and then reheat each pin an insert the wire. Then you only have to clean your iron only once. I think I do it that way myself)
The amount of solder you have to let into the pin is dependent on the wire thickness. You don't want to push out the solder when you insert the wire. As long as you don't overfill it, capillary action keeps the solder nice in the pin. If it bubbles out you applied too much.
The critical thing is to take care no solder sticks on the outside of the pin. If it happens you have to mechanically remove it. And that damages the pin.
It might take some attempts before you get it right.
Then liberally tin the wire. Reheat the pin from the outside until the solder melts. Insert the wire in down to three quarters of the pin. Hold the wire steady until the solder solidifies.
(Maybe it is better to tin all wires first and then fill all pins and then reheat each pin an insert the wire. Then you only have to clean your iron only once. I think I do it that way myself)
The amount of solder you have to let into the pin is dependent on the wire thickness. You don't want to push out the solder when you insert the wire. As long as you don't overfill it, capillary action keeps the solder nice in the pin. If it bubbles out you applied too much.
The critical thing is to take care no solder sticks on the outside of the pin. If it happens you have to mechanically remove it. And that damages the pin.
It might take some attempts before you get it right.
Thanks a lot for your reply.
I don't understand how the solder can stay in the pin if it is held horizontal?
