It seems the Calpamos is not being sold as a kit speaker any more and there are no more built crossovers being sold.
Does anybody have the crossover schematic and values please?
The schematic is available on the site but the component values are not provided.Although the type/make of components is.
Does anybody have the crossover schematic and values please?
The schematic is available on the site but the component values are not provided.Although the type/make of components is.
https://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/download/Humble Homemade Hifi_Calpamos.pdf
try searching for Calpamos speaker, and scroll down on the .pdf the schematic and component specs are there.
And if you are searching for removed/old web content look it up on web.archive.org (wayback machine).
I believe you can buy the schematic or built to order crossover from HH Hi Fi.It is quite expensive though.So instead I persisted with my old Edgar horns using simple first order crossovers and a bit of EQ via a Wiim sstreamer and got them sounding pretty nice.
I found the email from HH Hi Fi. They will not sell the schematic but can supply the crossover with a couple of minor differences to the original due to parts availability. They are 1995 Euro a pair plus shipping.Which is probably a fair price for the performance potential and design content.Not a budget project though!
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1995 euros.does it come with gold plated caps and diamond resistors.build your own. Expensive doesnt mean satisfaction.
Well I was a bit shocked by the price too but having had time to think about it have come to think that it probably fair payment for the design and development effort and the time to make small batch components including custom made inductors.Or you could just go and spend $50,000 on a similar sort ofJBL speaker.But for the fact that after 25 years I have finally got my Edgar horns sounding great I would have gone ahead with them.
OMG!!! Thats pushing $5,000 AUD, that's well out of my price range, I'm thinking a MiniDSP and 2 amplifiers might be the way to go here?!
Try first order passive /biamped first I reckon.Always sounds best if you can get it to work and now with very user friendly EQ like on Wiim you have far more chance of achieving it.Spent years playing with DBX Driverack digital crossovers /EQ/biamping and never got great results.You just need gain controls on whatever amp you use for the horn [or an L pad]. Gainclone type chip amps usually work well.
For 2K you can buy a minidsp flex and a few very nice amplifiers today, which give you a lot more possiblities by going active. Or you could use that budget to buy measurement gear and try to make it yourself (and fail a few times before spendning more). That is way to much for a crossover, certainly a 2 way.
You can get Hypex FA252 FusionAmp plate amplifier (2x200W/8R, dsp x/o) for about €570, twice as much for a stereo pair of loudspeakers.
I use for my 2 way setup a pair of Audiophonics Ncore based amps, but you will have to import them from France. I don't know any local australian builders who use Hypex or Purifi boards. Buckeye in the US seems also to be very good in this style. These kind of amps are among the best arround on neutrality and often still reasonable priced. I paid 800€ for 2 Audiophonics MPA-S125NC (2x75w at 8R per amp). You will need more powerfull amps for the woofers, like the Audiophonics NC502MP as your woofer is way more demanding than mine. But i don't know how much the import tax and shipping would be. It's probally a better id to search local builders who use these boards.
The Hypex Fusion amps are also good, but i don't like the dsp software of those Hypex amps. But some do like it. Just don't build them into your speakers as they will compromise them and break fast, way faster than the speaker itself. MiniDSP Flex is far superior to that dsp, altough it's (when it does not crash) quiet capable.
You can off course also use coloured amplifiers for this, but the woofer needs at least a few hundred watts to really shine i think. The tweeter only need a few watt; but it needs to be very clean as the tweeter is very high sensitive and will show amp noise way faster than a dome tweeter.
The speaker is made with modern amps in mind, so a tube or class A amp will exagerate the bass a bit due to the low damping/high output impendance of that type of amp. Any modern class AB or D amp of enough power (at least 250w/8R for the woofer) could drive these easely. For smaller spaces you can probally get away with less power for the woofer altough (but it's not ideal). The tweeter need just a few watt of clean power to do all it needs.
The Hypex Fusion amps are also good, but i don't like the dsp software of those Hypex amps. But some do like it. Just don't build them into your speakers as they will compromise them and break fast, way faster than the speaker itself. MiniDSP Flex is far superior to that dsp, altough it's (when it does not crash) quiet capable.
You can off course also use coloured amplifiers for this, but the woofer needs at least a few hundred watts to really shine i think. The tweeter only need a few watt; but it needs to be very clean as the tweeter is very high sensitive and will show amp noise way faster than a dome tweeter.
The speaker is made with modern amps in mind, so a tube or class A amp will exagerate the bass a bit due to the low damping/high output impendance of that type of amp. Any modern class AB or D amp of enough power (at least 250w/8R for the woofer) could drive these easely. For smaller spaces you can probally get away with less power for the woofer altough (but it's not ideal). The tweeter need just a few watt of clean power to do all it needs.
Trace the LP and HP transfer functions from the PDF with VituixCad and mimic those for use with Mini DSP.
However, you need the raw in box SPL measurements of the drivers in order to get accurate results, because the PDF seems to display the acoustic transfer functions, which consist of the acoustic output of the filter plus driver.
However, you need the raw in box SPL measurements of the drivers in order to get accurate results, because the PDF seems to display the acoustic transfer functions, which consist of the acoustic output of the filter plus driver.
Tony did a budget version for about half that money some five years ago. While I agree that even these prices are pretty OOB, the man has a business to run. Compare it with other offers in the high end corner…