Hi,
You have to excuse me if this has been discussed before.
I bought a Protodac diy kit and just want to build a super simple dac. I was thinking of connecting it to a Amanero usb module.
But since I am a high power electric engineer and most used to speaker building and ready simple diy kits there is a few things I don't quite have the hang on.
First thing I am wondering about is how to power the usb module. There seems to be a +3,3v supply pin, but when I read the leaflet I get confused when it says it is powered by 5V USB bus.
So is the usb module powered by the source through the usb cable?
Thanks,
Chris
You have to excuse me if this has been discussed before.
I bought a Protodac diy kit and just want to build a super simple dac. I was thinking of connecting it to a Amanero usb module.
But since I am a high power electric engineer and most used to speaker building and ready simple diy kits there is a few things I don't quite have the hang on.
First thing I am wondering about is how to power the usb module. There seems to be a +3,3v supply pin, but when I read the leaflet I get confused when it says it is powered by 5V USB bus.
So is the usb module powered by the source through the usb cable?
Thanks,
Chris
In your setup, you just need to connect the USB module to your computer or USB power source. The module will handle its power requirements internally. If you have specific components in your DAC design that require 3.3V, you can use the +3.3V pin from the module to supply them.
Ok. I would much prefer to power the usb module from the dac itself. Many computers have low quality power supply.
The schematic for the Amanero board is on Amanero's website. Just follow it. Then there's no need for random probing.
Tom
Tom
Amanero boards are not the best, IMHO, but you can make them perform better if you power them locally from an isolated +5v supply. By default, Amanero is powered by the USB bus. Unfortunately that bus can be a bad source of EMI/RFI noise. The way to power Amanero more cleanly is to remove the component labeled "L1" near the USB connector. Then apply clean +5v to the load side pad for L1. Power supply ground can be connected to the ground plane on the back of the Amanero board. This type of modification can help Amanero sound better, but its still not as good as JL Sounds I2SoverUSB board, which has galvanic isolation from the USB bus. For best results with a I2SoverUSB board, it should be powered from two clean, mutually isolated, +5v linear power supplies. Now you would be getting closer to what a really good dac needs. To learn more about other factors that can affect dac sound please see the thread at: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/general-purpose-dac-clock-board.413001/First thing I am wondering about is how to power the usb module.
I2SoverUSB info: http://jlsounds.com/i2soverusbFIO.html
Does it have galvanic isolation, support Native DSD up to DSD512, includes WASAPI EXCLUSIVE MODE and ASIO Windows drivers, etc.?Or this one 🙂
No, the modules I have now do not. Althought it is possible to add of course, I do not see strong demand for that. Do you think I'm wrong?Does it have galvanic isolation,
I've used ASIO4ALL and WASAPI Excluse in Foobar, yes.support Native DSD up to DSD512, includes WASAPI EXCLUSIVE MODE and ASIO Windows drivers, etc.?
As fo DSD, I've only tested DoP up do DSD256. Hardware would allow to output up to DSD512 native but the firmware is not ready for that.
I2SoverUSB has all the features I asked about, including galvanic isolation. It also supports external clocking, which we need too. Its the only USB board I recommend for use in my Clock Board thread at: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/general-purpose-dac-clock-board.413001/
Regarding ASIO4ALL, not sure if it bypasses Window Audio Service. Please see diagram at: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/how-to-write-an-asio-driver.400104/post-7375690
I have some sense of deja vu that it might not.
I have some sense of deja vu that it might not.
Have a look at Xing U30. It seems it has better coded firmware than jlsounds sound wise, it can be forced into slave for clocking, but yes it lacks galvanic iso (i think, description mentiones isolation, but i don't see it on board, unless the usb3300 chip has it internally, but doubthful). Jlsounds is amazing swiss knife, it has it all, but as you said and did in your very nice project, it should have external clocking for better performance, latest jls version seems to have less performance clock wise. My only negative remark about jlsounds is that it doesn't come in black 😅I2SoverUSB has all the features I asked about, including galvanic isolation. It also supports external clocking, which we need too. Its the only USB board I recommend for use in my Clock Board thread at: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/general-purpose-dac-clock-board.413001/
I have Xing U30. No galvanic isolation. It would need external clocking too. Accusilicon clocks are not the the same league as SOA S-cut crystal oscillators. Besides, X30 buffers its clocks in CPLD, so there goes the phase noise.
Jlsounds buffers it's clocks in cpld as well. Yeah, i didn't find any hardware on u30 board for giso. Which is unfortunate, very nice programming.
Just to clarify: York supports external clocking too. But I agree, if you need galvanic isolation and native dsd - jlsound module is better choice.I2SoverUSB has all the features I asked about, including galvanic isolation. It also supports external clocking, which we need too. Its the only USB board I recommend for use in my Clock Board thread at: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/general-purpose-dac-clock-board.413001/
I did it like Markw4 tells.
Amanero with its own low noise supply and isolator board with its own low noise supply feeding my ES9038Q2M board.
I can not measure noise level(<120dbv)because it is lower then my measure equipment.
Amanero with its own low noise supply and isolator board with its own low noise supply feeding my ES9038Q2M board.
I can not measure noise level(<120dbv)because it is lower then my measure equipment.
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