Hi everyone,
I purchased the upgrade kit from Ian Canada for my Ares II. I'm now thinking that it is not for the 12th edition OR the ARES II, but only for the 12th edition.
Bottom Left - The unmodded clocks on my ARES II
Bottom Right - The wiring for the upgraded clocks on the guide for the 12th edition upgrade on Ian Canada website
the PCB elements numbered 103 are likely C29 (GND) and C30 (GND), but I do not see what I would use for C121 (GND 3.3V) anywhere.
Is there any salvaging this? Do I just sell my Ares II and try and find a used 12th edition? Would likely cost about $250 to upgrade it on the used market, which I would prefer not to do right now.
Is there even such a thing as ARES 12th-2? I see 12th-1, but cannot see a 12th-2?
Thanks so much,
A pic of my whole ARES II in case it helps.
I purchased the upgrade kit from Ian Canada for my Ares II. I'm now thinking that it is not for the 12th edition OR the ARES II, but only for the 12th edition.
Bottom Left - The unmodded clocks on my ARES II
Bottom Right - The wiring for the upgraded clocks on the guide for the 12th edition upgrade on Ian Canada website
the PCB elements numbered 103 are likely C29 (GND) and C30 (GND), but I do not see what I would use for C121 (GND 3.3V) anywhere.
Is there any salvaging this? Do I just sell my Ares II and try and find a used 12th edition? Would likely cost about $250 to upgrade it on the used market, which I would prefer not to do right now.
Is there even such a thing as ARES 12th-2? I see 12th-1, but cannot see a 12th-2?
Thanks so much,
A pic of my whole ARES II in case it helps.
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Looks like the two caps marked "103" may be at +3.3v and GND. Those caps appear to be the bypass caps for two clock modules. Don't know of that's the same 3.3v power as is on the bypass cap for the big chip on off to the left. You could turn off the power, unplug the unit, wait for a all the power supply capacitors to discharge, then use an ohmmeter to see if they are connected to same power rail. In that case the resistance should be close to zero ohms. If they are on the same +3.3v rail then you could pick up voltage to power the external clocks there. Otherwise there will probably be +3.3v across the clock bypass caps and you could pick up power there. That option might be better anyway since all the ground connections would be close together.
All that having been said, if you don't know enough to figure out the above by yourself, are you sure you know enough to remove the existing clocks without damaging the board? How about soldering on some wires to tiny connection points?
All that having been said, if you don't know enough to figure out the above by yourself, are you sure you know enough to remove the existing clocks without damaging the board? How about soldering on some wires to tiny connection points?