• WARNING: Tube/Valve amplifiers use potentially LETHAL HIGH VOLTAGES.
    Building, troubleshooting and testing of these amplifiers should only be
    performed by someone who is thoroughly familiar with
    the safety precautions around high voltages.

Separated power supply PCB or same PCB with amplifier stage

Which one have more noise between same on PCB or Separated PCB ?
Both can be exactly the same, depending on how you implement it.
Think about it: The only difference is how much distance is between the two circuit sections. That distance could be made from air, or it could be an empty section of PCB material, it's doesn't matter either way.
 
Ask first: will the power transformer couple noise into the signal circuit?

If the PT is large, or has high leakage inductance it may cause problems for LP RIAA stages or line amplifiers. In this case, the transformer might be better to be moved away from the signal circuit.

One thing you can always do, to minimise the noise-coupling of a power supply:
- keep the length of wiring: transformer -> rectifier, and rectifier -> electrolyt capacitors as short as possible, and preferably <50mm.
These wires carry the recharge pulses to the caps; the peak current in these wires can reach 5* - 7* the DC current!
Long wires and large current peaks means big B-fields (low impedance magnetic fields), and these couple into the "victim" circuit very easily.

Conequently:
If the power transformer cannot be mounted close to the signal circuit, the power supply (Raw DC rectifiers & caps) should be mounted near the transformer, not near the signal circuit.
 
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Merlin,
from your article, page 6, "Also note that ground currents accrue as we get closer to the reservoir, so in this case V1 is produced by only one noisy current whereas V2 is produced by the sum of two noisy currents."

That looks like a typo to me, "V2" and "V1" ought to be the other way around.

kind regards
Marek
 
I'm building the Salas 6V6 line Amp at this time. I'm going with separate power supply chassis which will only contain transformers, all the rectifiers, CRCRC filters, and a delay timer of the B+. All linear. I need three voltages, heater, B+ and a 12V supply for the headphone module I'm adding, the relay volume control, and the relay input selector. So basically just the "raw DC" voltages needed will be emanating from this "brick". In the preamp chassis will be the regulators for both B+ and heater and pos/neg regulator for the headphone Amp module (Neurochrome HP-22 board). So regulation will be near the circuit and "raw DC" will be via an umbilical cord. I believe this will help take the length of the umbilical out of the audio equation as the regulation will be inches from the circuit, not three feet away.

I'm doing it this way mostly because I have limited time for this hobby, so I want a dedicated PS box that I can possibly reuse for another project if the B+ is close. So for me its about productivity and choosing a second project where I won't have to spend time building a PS at all because I'll look for a project that works with this same B+ and heater voltage. For me about use of my time in this hobby and wanting to do multiple projects.
 
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