Please help me find my way out of this conundrum:
I want to drive a ~ 90db SPL/w/m center channel speaker either of four ways:
1.) A ~ 10 watt mono tube amp. Budget ~ $2.7K
From the DAC output feeding a LOW power tube amp. Driving the center speaker even with any of these lesser 300B SET mono blocks?
https://www.google.com/search?q=300...sCDkQ268JKAJ6BAgQEB8&biw=1066&bih=438&dpr=1.2
2.) The other idea was a 45 tube amp, which I’ve heard can rival the sound of 300B SETs, but I can’t find any around. Any suggested 45 mono amp under $2.5K? But do they run much hotter and/or have higher power draw than a cheap 300B mono block?
3.) My stock First Watt F4 amp in balanced mono mode. https://www.firstwatt.com/product/f4/
https://www.firstwatt.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/prod_f4_man.pdf
As the F4 as a mono block does 100 watts, my room's only ~ 2800 cu ft and I'd be only 13 ft away how much input signal voltage could the F4 really need, even to sound it's best under these conditions? That's why I wanted to know if someone has ever put a balanced passive line stage between the F4 and a balanced output source-like a multichannel DAC, which will have a ~ 4.6V output.
https://static1.squarespace.com/sta...fd5daf5/1590418329103/convert-8-chop-shop.pdf
or this DAC card for the Merging Hapi DAC offering much higher output voltage?
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/prod...g_technologies_700341_da8_output_card_up.html
Would there any loss in sound quality using a passive line stage like these, assuming their balanced stereo passive outputs could be bridged to feed the F4 in balanced mono mode? https://khozmo.com/product-category/preamplifiers/
4.) However, as many F4 users have said, as it’s quite the chameleon and will essentially sound much like whatever’s feeding it. Thus, the F4 in balanced mono mode fed from a fully balanced tube line stage?
Budget ~ $2500. I would think this last option might be best as I would just need the best sounding tube line stage I can afford. But which for awesome sound stage size, spot on imaging, holographic mids and airy highs?
Going kind of nuts with this. Please share ideas.
I want to drive a ~ 90db SPL/w/m center channel speaker either of four ways:
1.) A ~ 10 watt mono tube amp. Budget ~ $2.7K
From the DAC output feeding a LOW power tube amp. Driving the center speaker even with any of these lesser 300B SET mono blocks?
https://www.google.com/search?q=300...sCDkQ268JKAJ6BAgQEB8&biw=1066&bih=438&dpr=1.2
2.) The other idea was a 45 tube amp, which I’ve heard can rival the sound of 300B SETs, but I can’t find any around. Any suggested 45 mono amp under $2.5K? But do they run much hotter and/or have higher power draw than a cheap 300B mono block?
3.) My stock First Watt F4 amp in balanced mono mode. https://www.firstwatt.com/product/f4/
https://www.firstwatt.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/prod_f4_man.pdf
As the F4 as a mono block does 100 watts, my room's only ~ 2800 cu ft and I'd be only 13 ft away how much input signal voltage could the F4 really need, even to sound it's best under these conditions? That's why I wanted to know if someone has ever put a balanced passive line stage between the F4 and a balanced output source-like a multichannel DAC, which will have a ~ 4.6V output.
https://static1.squarespace.com/sta...fd5daf5/1590418329103/convert-8-chop-shop.pdf
or this DAC card for the Merging Hapi DAC offering much higher output voltage?
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/prod...g_technologies_700341_da8_output_card_up.html
Would there any loss in sound quality using a passive line stage like these, assuming their balanced stereo passive outputs could be bridged to feed the F4 in balanced mono mode? https://khozmo.com/product-category/preamplifiers/
4.) However, as many F4 users have said, as it’s quite the chameleon and will essentially sound much like whatever’s feeding it. Thus, the F4 in balanced mono mode fed from a fully balanced tube line stage?
Budget ~ $2500. I would think this last option might be best as I would just need the best sounding tube line stage I can afford. But which for awesome sound stage size, spot on imaging, holographic mids and airy highs?
Going kind of nuts with this. Please share ideas.
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I used the tv speakers and amp for center.
That way I can control the voice level independently.
$2500 will buy a big Samsung tv with an excellent set of speakers built in.
That way I can control the voice level independently.
$2500 will buy a big Samsung tv with an excellent set of speakers built in.
I tried and failed to integrate the Sony "S-connection" with my either my 8 channel DAC or amplifier scheme to create a 3.1 system using the TV's internal speakers. https://audiophilestyle.com/forums/...-speakers-for-center-channel/#comment-1284178
No better than those Microsoft scoundrels.
You may want to let others know how it is all set up and where you get the signal, Optical or HDMI. On my Sony OLED the S connection allows one to use the screen as a centre only from Sony gear that supports it.
For mine I use a Soundbar via HDMI (ARC) and connected to the stereo system via Optical.
For mine I use a Soundbar via HDMI (ARC) and connected to the stereo system via Optical.
I just imagined that even though the F4 amp does 100 watts into 8 ohms in balanced mono mode it might still need something more than the DAC's balanced ~ 4.6v to realize its bests frequency response, sound stage, tonality, et al. But actually I just learned that like the Hapi DAC, the Dangerous Music Convert-8 DAC can also easily deliver output voltage ranges twice that.
No, as I said I gave up trying to use the Sony OLED's speakers. It will be some kind of dedicated center speaker, ideally with MF and HF drivers as similiar to those in my mains as possible, and placed under the TV. https://josephcrowe.com/products/speaker-system-no-2015-10-mtm-with-1-4-horn. I'll have to be able to determine and settle on the height of the center cabinet before deciding on a 55 or 65" TV, as that impacts the screen height and also viewing angle @ ~ 12 ft. And unlike some people I refuse to crane my neck upwards to watch movies, so the screen's center has to be close to on axis with my gaze
Have you considered flipping the center up top? You could but the L/R on stands run the TV low. Just flip the center to angle down. May not work but a possible solution.
Rob 🙂
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