any forum member that has detailed info for the Dynaudio system in a 2011 Tiguan particularly a pinout for the amp connector shall be thanked immensely!
this thing was the victim of a sunroof drain leak that took out the amp and caused the seat to malfunction in the process of diagnosing the seat fault i encountered a severe lack of info on these and the little bits of wiring info in general has me looking everywhere so here's to hoping someone can point the way!!!
this thing was the victim of a sunroof drain leak that took out the amp and caused the seat to malfunction in the process of diagnosing the seat fault i encountered a severe lack of info on these and the little bits of wiring info in general has me looking everywhere so here's to hoping someone can point the way!!!
seems there are sources for replacement amps out there but still no pinout info.
in case it's relevant this particular one was manufactured by Blaupunkt (sorry if that's spelt incorrectly)
in case it's relevant this particular one was manufactured by Blaupunkt (sorry if that's spelt incorrectly)
Google:
schaltplan vw tiguan
it will turn up various sources. I found some e-book for 60€ download.
Have you ever worked with VW schematics? They have the same scheme since 1957, which has driven mentaly sane people completely nuts. You are warned. In 1957 they had a few meters of wire in each car, today you count in kilometers.
PS I can read Schematics from other brands, like Alfa Romeo, Fiat, Ferrari, BMW, etc fluently. With VW stuff I need about ten times as much time just to find a simple connector. It is stuff to ruin your day...
schaltplan vw tiguan
it will turn up various sources. I found some e-book for 60€ download.
Have you ever worked with VW schematics? They have the same scheme since 1957, which has driven mentaly sane people completely nuts. You are warned. In 1957 they had a few meters of wire in each car, today you count in kilometers.
PS I can read Schematics from other brands, like Alfa Romeo, Fiat, Ferrari, BMW, etc fluently. With VW stuff I need about ten times as much time just to find a simple connector. It is stuff to ruin your day...
can't seem to find signal from the head unit....can anyone tell me if perhaps the the head unit is outputting digitally rather than line level audio?
all the speakers tweets and woofers work and go back to the amp separately so the Blaupnkt amp must have some form of a DSP x-over... but some tube install vids suggest differently.
all the speakers tweets and woofers work and go back to the amp separately so the Blaupnkt amp must have some form of a DSP x-over... but some tube install vids suggest differently.
yup been there yadda,yadda, i just can't believe there just so little info out there on these.
and the differences with European and North American models adds to the confusion...
i did find a partial pinout that identified the speaker leads.
and the differences with European and North American models adds to the confusion...
i did find a partial pinout that identified the speaker leads.
Be prepared to find unnessecary complicated and illogical constructions in any VW. Even a light switch is so comblicated you may need two days to understand it and a week to find all connections. I would love to help, but no way with a newer VW. There are a zillion people on the net talking about VW problems, but those who know the fixes stay silent. If you find any promising material in German and need assistance to understand it, I can help. I PM you my mail adress.
For example, a 1999 Range Rover has glas fiber from the head unit to the amps in the back with the Harman Kardon sound system for a digital connection. Works in any condition. To bad they didn't seal the HK amp water tight...
If a construction has been made by someone who had too much Scotch, it doesn't help to drink to the same level to decipher it. Better stay sober.
If you have an osciloscope, use it to check the output for digital or analog.
For example, a 1999 Range Rover has glas fiber from the head unit to the amps in the back with the Harman Kardon sound system for a digital connection. Works in any condition. To bad they didn't seal the HK amp water tight...
If a construction has been made by someone who had too much Scotch, it doesn't help to drink to the same level to decipher it. Better stay sober.
If you have an osciloscope, use it to check the output for digital or analog.
I just stumbled about a guy wha had this system not working and spend weeks with the problem. Turned out to be the SD card in the HU that was defective and stopped the whole thing.
Have a look at "VCDS" which is a cheaply aviable diagnostic system for your and other VW cars (Audi, Seat, Skoda). It will help you once you have established communication to the sound system again. This VCDS thing is not expensive and you can sell it later with very little loss.
The good thing about VW faults is that they are very reliabel. So any car develops the same problems. Your's is well known.
What I found so far, the connectors corrode in case of water inside the car, under the (driver) seat.
There are an amp and a controller box for the sound system.
Look for power at Pin 22 and 23 of the amplifier. If there is none, the amp should be OK, only a connector problem. Clean and check for corrosion inside each connector. Do not use any agressive contact spray! The real WD40 is non corrosive and OK to use.
I don't like to tell you, but you should take anything apart that was in contact with water. So for a 100% fix you may need to take out the whole carpet (seats etc. as well). You may break a handfull of fasteners, these little plastic things, buy them online, cheap. If it is hot it is easyer to get all the plastic trim out. This will not be a one day job. Good thing, installing it back takes only seconds, because it only takes an hour to assemple the whole car in the plant. Which explains the low quality of VW cars since about 1995.
If I was you, after analysing with VCDS I would start to take the car appart. Do not look for a demon tweak to fix it, it should be a simple problem with complicated consequences. Maybe about me, I do cars professionaly for over 40 years now. Italian and a few German sports cars. Since about 2000 cars have become electronic nightmares. ECU programmin and engine electronics are OK with me, but today the accesories are the problem and the bus systems connecting anything together. So if the battery in the remote fails, your car won't start or even open...
Funny enough, me not touching a VW if not forced to, have a wife working at a VW dealership. Telling me every day about unsolvable problems on newer cars and frustrated mecanics and angry customers.
The good thing about VW faults is that they are very reliabel. So any car develops the same problems. Your's is well known.
What I found so far, the connectors corrode in case of water inside the car, under the (driver) seat.
There are an amp and a controller box for the sound system.
Look for power at Pin 22 and 23 of the amplifier. If there is none, the amp should be OK, only a connector problem. Clean and check for corrosion inside each connector. Do not use any agressive contact spray! The real WD40 is non corrosive and OK to use.
I don't like to tell you, but you should take anything apart that was in contact with water. So for a 100% fix you may need to take out the whole carpet (seats etc. as well). You may break a handfull of fasteners, these little plastic things, buy them online, cheap. If it is hot it is easyer to get all the plastic trim out. This will not be a one day job. Good thing, installing it back takes only seconds, because it only takes an hour to assemple the whole car in the plant. Which explains the low quality of VW cars since about 1995.
If I was you, after analysing with VCDS I would start to take the car appart. Do not look for a demon tweak to fix it, it should be a simple problem with complicated consequences. Maybe about me, I do cars professionaly for over 40 years now. Italian and a few German sports cars. Since about 2000 cars have become electronic nightmares. ECU programmin and engine electronics are OK with me, but today the accesories are the problem and the bus systems connecting anything together. So if the battery in the remote fails, your car won't start or even open...
Funny enough, me not touching a VW if not forced to, have a wife working at a VW dealership. Telling me every day about unsolvable problems on newer cars and frustrated mecanics and angry customers.
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this car is definitely a victim of corrosion from a sunroof drain leak, that is at least fixed. i was tempted to completely remove the carpet but separating the layers and a small heater with a fan dried most of it out.
the sponged back rubber layer is the worst at holding water!
the vehicle owner i think is going to replace the entire stereo with aftermarket components.
so now i hope the backup camera and steering wheel controls can be adapted.
even the antenna has a problem!!
the sponged back rubber layer is the worst at holding water!
the vehicle owner i think is going to replace the entire stereo with aftermarket components.
so now i hope the backup camera and steering wheel controls can be adapted.
even the antenna has a problem!!
What price did you find? You don't need to buy the VW VCDS.
You will not be able to get the back camera working. It is the cause for endless problemes at the dealership, as soon as you go to anything aftermarket. Better use an non VW kit from the beginning, before you wasted hours of time.
You will not be able to get the back camera working. It is the cause for endless problemes at the dealership, as soon as you go to anything aftermarket. Better use an non VW kit from the beginning, before you wasted hours of time.
VCDS is 5$ hardware and a software for your laptop. If you want it comfortable, you may pay 300 US$ for a 3 car version. You can diagnose 3 different cars with it and then have to buy extra credits for any new car. I don't know what you charge per hour, but for me that is a fair deal. I can do things I can not do without it and save many hours of diagnosing the old fashioned way.
Anyway, I don't hve it. I get help from the land of rice and pork feet, with something compareable, but more universal.
Anyway, I don't hve it. I get help from the land of rice and pork feet, with something compareable, but more universal.
If you want it cheap and have time to solve some problems, you can work with some USB cable + software CD from Amazon, eBay or Aliexpress around 20-50$.
Only if you are happy with using computers, I may add. If you go this way, please order a small SSD that replaces the one in your laptop.
99% of the software on these small discs is malware. If you use it on your regular machine, you will loose it for sure. So, get an SSD, install a fresh Win10 on it and use it only for car diagnostic. I have two dedicated laptops for the workshop.
So, you are warned. There is even some free software, but this may not work for the newer, past 2000 cars. I only have one VW and a Skoda that I work on because it is family. You even need the laptop to reset an error in airbag or ABS. Just repairing is not enough.
Any time I have to solve a problem on these cars my hair get's more gray over night.
I can feel your pain. Good luck!
Only if you are happy with using computers, I may add. If you go this way, please order a small SSD that replaces the one in your laptop.
99% of the software on these small discs is malware. If you use it on your regular machine, you will loose it for sure. So, get an SSD, install a fresh Win10 on it and use it only for car diagnostic. I have two dedicated laptops for the workshop.
So, you are warned. There is even some free software, but this may not work for the newer, past 2000 cars. I only have one VW and a Skoda that I work on because it is family. You even need the laptop to reset an error in airbag or ABS. Just repairing is not enough.
Any time I have to solve a problem on these cars my hair get's more gray over night.
I can feel your pain. Good luck!
