Hi Folks
I'm inspired to save these Panasonic drivers salvaged from an old Olevia tv and have fun building a set of desktop speakers. This is my first build, so I read the pinned threads on this forum and searched for 2.5-way enclosure plans online before writing here.
Panasonic Driver specs/info:
25-watt each set, so 50-watt total all 6 drivers
Tweeter: 2"; 6 ohm; model EAS6PH132A - G7N203
Coaxial: 4"; 4 ohm; model EAS10P646A - G7N206
Woofer: 4"; 4 ohm; model EAS10PL636B - G7N206
Tweeter has a capacitor.
Mid & Woofer are in phase.
How to determine dimensions for a decently functional sealed enclosure or even an open baffle with the available specs above? I'm assuming ported is more difficult given the lack of info. Perhaps this is where art pulls ahead of science. The original design had the tweeter and coaxial firing forward with the woofer firing rear and ported.
I found this guide as a general approach, is this sufficient? SteveHoffman.tv Forum
Also, I have this amp: Pyle PCA2 Compact Bluetooth Amp
I'll update with any progress as this goes.
Thanks!
Pics:
I'm inspired to save these Panasonic drivers salvaged from an old Olevia tv and have fun building a set of desktop speakers. This is my first build, so I read the pinned threads on this forum and searched for 2.5-way enclosure plans online before writing here.
Panasonic Driver specs/info:
25-watt each set, so 50-watt total all 6 drivers
Tweeter: 2"; 6 ohm; model EAS6PH132A - G7N203
Coaxial: 4"; 4 ohm; model EAS10P646A - G7N206
Woofer: 4"; 4 ohm; model EAS10PL636B - G7N206
Tweeter has a capacitor.
Mid & Woofer are in phase.
How to determine dimensions for a decently functional sealed enclosure or even an open baffle with the available specs above? I'm assuming ported is more difficult given the lack of info. Perhaps this is where art pulls ahead of science. The original design had the tweeter and coaxial firing forward with the woofer firing rear and ported.
I found this guide as a general approach, is this sufficient? SteveHoffman.tv Forum
Also, I have this amp: Pyle PCA2 Compact Bluetooth Amp
I'll update with any progress as this goes.
Thanks!
Pics:
Last edited:
Hi Galu - thanks for the response!
Regarding the sealed box, the original provided a separation for the woofer, do you agree that this is beneficial to maintain in the new enclosure?
Hope this diagram is clear. Please let me know if there is any desired modification to the sketch. What information can be derived from the wiring pattern? Thanks again for the reply.
Regarding the sealed box, the original provided a separation for the woofer, do you agree that this is beneficial to maintain in the new enclosure?
Hope this diagram is clear. Please let me know if there is any desired modification to the sketch. What information can be derived from the wiring pattern? Thanks again for the reply.
The coaxial is indeed a wide band, as that is a 'whixzer' in the center and not a miniature tweeter. So, if it has enough extension ( treble), you can ditch the 'tweeter'.
The difference between those two speakers, other than the whizzer, is the external suspension
One is dry, one is rubberized, guess which ?!?
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/dry-or-rubberized-3-way-woofer.414097/#post-7713940
Ok, that adds more confusion...
So we are dealing with a WAW and maybe crossovers...
Boxes for bass
Position of the cones, boxes in room..
P.s. the 'woofer' has a frame that is inserted in the plastic box and it's difficult ( not impossible) to mount It ( that deserves a new thread!)
The difference between those two speakers, other than the whizzer, is the external suspension
One is dry, one is rubberized, guess which ?!?
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/dry-or-rubberized-3-way-woofer.414097/#post-7713940
Ok, that adds more confusion...
So we are dealing with a WAW and maybe crossovers...
Boxes for bass
Position of the cones, boxes in room..
P.s. the 'woofer' has a frame that is inserted in the plastic box and it's difficult ( not impossible) to mount It ( that deserves a new thread!)
Last edited:
Yes, separation is necessary to prevent the back pressure from the woofer pushing against the cone of the twin cone driver.
Note that the "coaxial" driver is actually a "twin cone" driver.
Your enclosure will have to have two sealed compartments, one for the woofer and one for the twin cone/tweeter combination. Each compartment could be 0.25 cu ft (7 litres) - perhaps smaller for the twin cone/tweeter combination.
Regarding the wiring pattern, these are normally drawn "squared up", but it looks correct apart from the missing capacitor in series with the tweeter.
The woofer and twin cone are connected in series + - to + - giving a total load of 8 ohm. The source is connected across this series combination such that the yellow wire goes to woofer plus.
Your wiring pattern excludes the capacitor in series with the positive terminal of the tweeter. (This capacitor prevents the low frequencies damaging the delicate tweeter).
The series combination of tweeter and capacitor is connected in parallel with series combination of woofer and twin cone such that the negative terminal of the tweeter is connected to the negative terminal of the twin cone driver.
EDIT: I'll see if I can sketch a circuit diagram for you, or perhaps someone with the necessary software could help me.
Last edited:
I hadn't noticed the electrical part.
The new speakers will be 4 ohm!
Capacitor:from 4 to 40 μF
Coil: 1? 2...3 mH ?!
The new speakers will be 4 ohm!
Capacitor:from 4 to 40 μF
Coil: 1? 2...3 mH ?!
Indeed, the non-standard woofer frame will require some imaginative fitting in order to seal it into a wooden enclosure!
Wonderful guidance and input.
Dual cone, not coaxial, got it.
Squared up style wiring diagram, clearer, thank you.
8-ohm system, got it.
Two sealed compartments @ 0.25 cu ft, confirmed.
Omitted capacitor, yes, my apology.
I noticed the offset frame too; this confirms that I will need to figure a proper fitting.
What's curious to me now with a renewed focus on the capacitor is that from the factory, the capacitor is soldered to the negative terminal of the tweeter, not the positive. In the new circuit diagram, it is on the positive- is this because it was believed to be on the positive to begin with or it was intentionally moved? Does it matter?
Maybe I'm getting ahead of myself, but the 8-ohm detail has me thinking about the 4-ohm amp. Will the two speakers (for clarity I possess two complete sets of 3-driver combos, from left/right of the tv) ideally be wired in parallel to match the amp safely? If this is off-topic I will attempt to research it elsewhere. Thank you!
Dual cone, not coaxial, got it.
Squared up style wiring diagram, clearer, thank you.
8-ohm system, got it.
Two sealed compartments @ 0.25 cu ft, confirmed.
Omitted capacitor, yes, my apology.
I noticed the offset frame too; this confirms that I will need to figure a proper fitting.
What's curious to me now with a renewed focus on the capacitor is that from the factory, the capacitor is soldered to the negative terminal of the tweeter, not the positive. In the new circuit diagram, it is on the positive- is this because it was believed to be on the positive to begin with or it was intentionally moved? Does it matter?
Maybe I'm getting ahead of myself, but the 8-ohm detail has me thinking about the 4-ohm amp. Will the two speakers (for clarity I possess two complete sets of 3-driver combos, from left/right of the tv) ideally be wired in parallel to match the amp safely? If this is off-topic I will attempt to research it elsewhere. Thank you!
Last edited:
In my schematic sketch, invert the capacitor/tweeter branch so that the negative side of the tweeter goes to positive (Y) and the capacitor goes to negative (B).
I believe that now provides the correct match to the physical wiring in post #1.
Thanks for the extra effort, I was doubling checking I didn't fumble something.
With all the above I'm now confident enough to get started with an enclosure!
Also, re: my question about a parallel connection to the amp to compensate for ohms, I remember that the two speaker units connect to each other then only one positive/negative connection is made to the amp, so this I believe essentially achieves the subject of inquiry. So please disregard the above.
I imagine for many these drivers are better discarded so thank you Galu and others for taking the inquiry seriously and participating so far in making this project possible.
With all the above I'm now confident enough to get started with an enclosure!
Also, re: my question about a parallel connection to the amp to compensate for ohms, I remember that the two speaker units connect to each other then only one positive/negative connection is made to the amp, so this I believe essentially achieves the subject of inquiry. So please disregard the above.
I imagine for many these drivers are better discarded so thank you Galu and others for taking the inquiry seriously and participating so far in making this project possible.
Last edited:
Note my above post where I have changed my schematic to match the physical wiring.
It appears that the intention is to have the tweeter operate in reverse electrical phase to the woofer/twin cone combination in order to generate the best acoustic response.
You can experiment with either mode of connection and decide which one sounds best in relation to your new enclosure.
I said: ditch the tweeter and arrange the crossover in a series connection. New capacitor value: from 27 to 47 μF and, accordingly, a coil big enough!
The crossover is needed in order to assign each speaker a preferite band. Now it's done mechanically, as the accordion surround doesn't allow big movement (ehm..), and together with the whizzer cone, the unit is mid-treble oriented, while the half roll surround permits longer excursion.
If you mount it backwards, the mid freq are attenuated because...
The crossover is needed in order to assign each speaker a preferite band. Now it's done mechanically, as the accordion surround doesn't allow big movement (ehm..), and together with the whizzer cone, the unit is mid-treble oriented, while the half roll surround permits longer excursion.
If you mount it backwards, the mid freq are attenuated because...
Last edited:
The link to the amp specifies its power output into an 8 ohm load (2 x 40 W MAX at 10% distortion). It is also capable of working into a 4 ohm load
Putting the woofer and twin cone in parallel would give a 2 ohm load, for which this amp is not specified - 2 ohm is likely to damage it.
Schematic please, pico. We're conversing with someone on their first build.
I missed your edit!
Remember that you can experiment with the driver polarities in order to obtain the best acoustical results in your chosen enclosure design.
No doubt, as pico is suggesting, there is a better way to combine these drivers, but for a first build it's perhaps best stick to what you've got.
If successful (or even if it's not) the experience may spur you on to study crossover design and build your dream speaker!
Please keep us posted.
Thanks pico, I'll reconsider removing the tweeter, though I'm leaning towards leaving them for this round. I appreciate the desire for efficiency by slimming down the system while maintaining the same quality, it's a great idea that I would've have had on my own at this stage.
I did get a chance to try the speakers on my desk before extracting the drivers and found their clarity satisfactory as is. I would've left them except for their shape was awkward and the rear firing woofer wasn't ideal without a wall close behind to mimic a wall-mounted tv. As desktop computer speakers they'll play an even mix of voice and music at low to moderate volume and these sounded just fine for this and am confident will be even better now.
I did get a chance to try the speakers on my desk before extracting the drivers and found their clarity satisfactory as is. I would've left them except for their shape was awkward and the rear firing woofer wasn't ideal without a wall close behind to mimic a wall-mounted tv. As desktop computer speakers they'll play an even mix of voice and music at low to moderate volume and these sounded just fine for this and am confident will be even better now.
Aside from the crossover (I'd rather prefer a parallel connection), the 'emissions' has to be considered.
Ideally, theoretically, you want a solid box for the woofer, and it has to be soundproof.
The midrange speaker can be left bare, with an 'adeguate' sound barrier behind (felt cage). Something like a mini open baffle speaker... I mean, focus on 'emission' and you would want to hear a solid/not blurry bass and so on.
The thin steel basket doesn't speak for solid bass, unluckily it hasn't the classic ring, so more work...hot glue in worst cases...!?
Ideally, theoretically, you want a solid box for the woofer, and it has to be soundproof.
The midrange speaker can be left bare, with an 'adeguate' sound barrier behind (felt cage). Something like a mini open baffle speaker... I mean, focus on 'emission' and you would want to hear a solid/not blurry bass and so on.
The thin steel basket doesn't speak for solid bass, unluckily it hasn't the classic ring, so more work...hot glue in worst cases...!?