Veneered all 4 sides of this cabinet yesterday, PPR, Platen, Cauls, and Clamps and it hurts to type this morning. Twisting/untwisting those handles at age 76 is killing me! 🙄
Golden years my ***
!
Golden years my ***
If you remove the handles, you can probably chuck right to the lead screw. A nut or all thread coupler welded to the lead screw would speed things up quite a bit but I'd look for a lead screw coupler that fits the threads and either already has a hole to drive the set pin into, or drill a hole for that purpose. That would be reversible and you could return to using the handles if you wanted.
I guess the quick, fast and in a hurry method might be to JB weld an all thread coupler to the screw if you can find one that will slide over with a fairly close fit. Drilling one out to fit is another option
I guess the quick, fast and in a hurry method might be to JB weld an all thread coupler to the screw if you can find one that will slide over with a fairly close fit. Drilling one out to fit is another option
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You could probably just radially drill the handle and use a tool like a screwdriver as a lever to turn the handle.
My sash clamps have a tommy bar.
Why does nobody do a fast action version of a sash clamp?
Oh! found one:
https://www.screwfix.com/p/irwin-quick-grip-xp-bar-clamp-50-1270mm-/40434
Why does nobody do a fast action version of a sash clamp?
Oh! found one:
https://www.screwfix.com/p/irwin-quick-grip-xp-bar-clamp-50-1270mm-/40434
I've used the Urko brand clamps for over 30 years, (mod 3-p) these are up to 900mm capicity. Maybe a bit more expensive, but with hardened inserts and non rotating clamp heads, (the clamped pieces don't spin when clamped) they have proved very good and other than being less shiny, are no different to ones I bought a year ago. Some have a hex as well as tommy bar clamp screw. (Possibly allowing battery nutrunners to be used, though I don't do that as the tommy bar works well for me).
https://www.urko.com/en/
I've never used these, (see below) but they may be worth consideration also. They seem similar in some ways.
https://www.piher.com/en/products
For distances over 900mm I would use either sash clamps (old british made) or 2inch wide ratchet straps.
https://www.urko.com/en/
I've never used these, (see below) but they may be worth consideration also. They seem similar in some ways.
https://www.piher.com/en/products
For distances over 900mm I would use either sash clamps (old british made) or 2inch wide ratchet straps.
Haven‘t these less torque than the threaded clamps, at least if the handle allows it?
(Those old school tools require an iron hand)
I think of quick-grips as utilitarian, general use clamps. Holding work pieces down on the bench or drill press, positioning jigs or holding stock on the crosscut sled or router table. Most that I've used do begin to flex/twist to some degree under a heavy load. They were designed as one handed tools so rhe two handed squeeze may be a little much. I also have a bunch of cheap HF F-clamps that I use the same way, they're also useful on the welding table.
For panels, joints and layups, I generally use pipe clamps or Bessey F clamps. My am lock and ratchet straps don't see much use in the shop but sometimes they're the right tool.
For panels, joints and layups, I generally use pipe clamps or Bessey F clamps. My am lock and ratchet straps don't see much use in the shop but sometimes they're the right tool.
For veneering, a vacuum bag is actually better anyway! Maybe not cordless, and you would veneer the panels before building the box, but they give a really good, flat, even pressure....