Can anybody help me, the cable, analog or digital, is passing through a wall and runs next to other cables, even powercables. Does anyone know if there exist a converterbox 24bit/192khz to optotoslink?
Tommy
Tommy
Tricky, running alongside power will mean electrical noise, suggesting digital is best (optical of course has no problem with EMI).
Analog will likely be much cheaper though, even with differential signalling. Sending at a high line level will reduce noise, but means volume adjustment happens at receiving end.
Analog will likely be much cheaper though, even with differential signalling. Sending at a high line level will reduce noise, but means volume adjustment happens at receiving end.
a complete balanced XLR interconnect system with a Shielded Twisted Pair (STP) with a braided shield cable.
Unless the AC cable is to a popcorn popper or a tea pot, you probably won't need a Star-Quad cable.
2 inch (5 cm) separation from the AC cable is more than you need.
Unless the AC cable is to a popcorn popper or a tea pot, you probably won't need a Star-Quad cable.
2 inch (5 cm) separation from the AC cable is more than you need.
All of the above answers are about analog differential signalling.
Balanced is a sub-set of differential.
That is, while not all differential is balanced. all balanced is differential
Balanced is a sub-set of differential.
That is, while not all differential is balanced. all balanced is differential
Long digital interconnect systems have a different requirement.
The 'Radio Frequency Characteristic Impedance' of the cable needs to match the system.
The longer the cable the more important this is.
The 'Radio Frequency Characteristic Impedance' of the cable needs to match the system.
The longer the cable the more important this is.
If you have a phono preamp, any analog to digital converter will do. Here's a box that goes photo to optical. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_252OBXPHEB/Pro-ject-Optical-Box-E.html
Sure. You have already gotten some good advice. The problem is the figure which post contains it.
Didn't you say you wanted the best way, yet already you are making an assumption about what is best. Maybe you are defining best to mean, "greatest noise immunity for the lowest price, at whatever cost to best fidelity"?
Might help to get more useful answers if you said a little more about what you are trying to do. Is this for a super hi-fi system? Or maybe for a barbeque party in your backyard and you need to run the $250 record player output to the patio 45 feet away, and your budget for this is $50? Or maybe its for some other situation entirely?
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VERY LOW IMPEDANCE Balanced Line Level or above is the way to go.
( that is a very long distance )
( that is a very long distance )
None by itself is a magical bullet, but you may combine many answers for a better end result, so:
(and this is just summing up some answers above):
* Balanced twisted pair.
* Running inside its own shield.
* Driven from a low impedance.
On the order of a few tens of ohms.
* Strong signal.
Think in the order of 1 or 2 V RMS.
I would be very surprised if it does not work fine, even.better than you asked for.
(and this is just summing up some answers above):
* Balanced twisted pair.
* Running inside its own shield.
* Driven from a low impedance.
On the order of a few tens of ohms.
* Strong signal.
Think in the order of 1 or 2 V RMS.
I would be very surprised if it does not work fine, even.better than you asked for.
Gee, in recording concert hall classical music, we often use 300 foot (100 meter) normal XLR balanced interconnect cable.
Sure, we were running long mic cables in orchestral theaters 50-years ago. It worked then, or at least it was about the best we knew how to do at the time.
At one radio station (and an ice skating rink), some permanently installed interconnects were run thru conduit to prevent damage.
Certainly, but here we are talking line level signals, not microphone level, I suggested it running inside its own shield, even if sharing a larger conduit , and we are talking one signal (maybe Stereo but nothing further) , and 15 meters, not 50 or 100.
All adds up helping the problem.
FWIW for about 10 years I sold and used active PA cabinets which were daisy chained, as many as you need depending on venture size, from 2 per side for Clubs to 24 per side for Stadiums.
I used multipin Cinch type industrial connectors, the large round ones with a chrome plated ring for secure mounting, 2 to 4 pins carrying mains, 4 for balanced Audio (+hot -hot, ground, shield) , each cabinet had 2 chassis type connectors for daisychaining ... never had a problem.
Each Cabinet contained it's own 400+100W biamp and crossover.
It was "the thing" for some time, certainly more practical and fast than a full setup with big power amps + processors on each side of Stage and a myriad cables feeding speaker level signal to a bunch of cabinets, horns, etc.
Cherry on the cake: if one cabinet dies for whatever reason, its fuse blows, it self removes from the picture, the rest keeps working, public notices nothing.
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At some point though, some studios starting wiring up the walls with Mogami mic cable because they said it sounded better. At the time I didn't believe it was possible for mic/line cables to have a clear audible effect, unless maybe it was just from better shielding or something like that. Now I believe there is more to it.
The Belden 9454 "Coax Dual Channel Audio Cable" made an audible difference,
but it was from the tinned steel conductor.
but it was from the tinned steel conductor.
"Belden 9454 "Coax Dual Channel Audio Cable" is a low budget RCA unbalanced interconnect cable.
I would spend more money and get two nice coax cables.
* * * * * * * * * * * *
the Copper Clad Steel (CCS) center conductor is OK.
But I'm not fan of spiral shields. Use a coax with a braided shield and the longer the run, the heaver the braid.
I would spend more money and get two nice coax cables.
* * * * * * * * * * * *
the Copper Clad Steel (CCS) center conductor is OK.
But I'm not fan of spiral shields. Use a coax with a braided shield and the longer the run, the heaver the braid.
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