It looks like I spend a lot of time cooking for my ravenous kids.
So, I am looking at diy solution for kitchen sound, at the moment I have repurposed old bookshelf speakers which are horizontally on top of the top kitchen cabinets, near the ceiling, against the wall of the rectangular shaped kitchen. This doesn't sound that good to be honest, as expected.
For a kitchen solution, I expect:
These speakers should be a bit rugged, to weather kitchen grease which happens despite the hood.
They probably should be near the ceiling, angled downward because all the shelf or counter space is used for food?
and also they should compensate for near wall positioning.
Any hints as to how to design these boxes or other solutions for this kind of setup?
So, I am looking at diy solution for kitchen sound, at the moment I have repurposed old bookshelf speakers which are horizontally on top of the top kitchen cabinets, near the ceiling, against the wall of the rectangular shaped kitchen. This doesn't sound that good to be honest, as expected.
For a kitchen solution, I expect:
These speakers should be a bit rugged, to weather kitchen grease which happens despite the hood.
They probably should be near the ceiling, angled downward because all the shelf or counter space is used for food?
and also they should compensate for near wall positioning.
Any hints as to how to design these boxes or other solutions for this kind of setup?
For my secondary listening area, I use a pair of single full range drivers, similar to Visaton bg17-8 . Actually the ones I used were salvaged from a projection TV sitting for the garbage by the side of the road. Mitsubishi I remember, labeled "13 w". I've had the actual Visaton, which I put for supplementary sound in the ceiling of the back of a church. For home use I put each driver on the end of a box 200 mm x 200 mm x 350 mm. I cut a 25 mm square hole in the back for some bass reflex boost. You may use plywood or mdf if you wish, but at 40 w max 1/8 w base level I used a cardboard box taped shut. I secured the driver to the box with 4 mm x 20 mm screws, with elastic stop nuts that will not back off with vibration. I used washers to cover the slots and keep the ends from pulling through the cardboard. You may calculate internal volume if you wish, but I was happy enough with the result for this casual listening system. I used one PV-4c 120 w/ch amp to amplify television until that system was stolen. Now I use two 75 w/ch MMA-875t mixer amps to amplify both television or sound from a PC earphone jack. The television I use a toslink-line level converter bought off ebay for $13. The visiton is limited to 40 w and the salvage drivers 13 w, but the excess amp power was never a problem.
As a full range driver no crossover components are required. As I locate the boxes near the wall there is no "baffle step compensation" required for pleasant bsss levels. The MMA-875t have tone controls if I wished to boost the bass, but I do not.
I went through several used bookshelf sized speakers from my local charity resale shop, after all sound equipment was stolen. These boxes are a ****shoot, some are okay, most are garbage. A pair costing $4 with a 75 mm bass driver sounded okay if the volume was limited. Many two ways with a 125 or 150 mm bsss drivers were thrown away. A pair bought for $5 with 175 mm bass driver and 50 mm and 25 mm drivers, sound pretty good, but in 350 mm x 800 mm x 200 mm partical board boxes they will not fit under the TV stand or on top of a kitchen cabinet. Their bass extension is not to 54 hz of my music room SP2(2004), being more like a boom box with a little boost in the 100-200 hz range.
As a full range driver no crossover components are required. As I locate the boxes near the wall there is no "baffle step compensation" required for pleasant bsss levels. The MMA-875t have tone controls if I wished to boost the bass, but I do not.
I went through several used bookshelf sized speakers from my local charity resale shop, after all sound equipment was stolen. These boxes are a ****shoot, some are okay, most are garbage. A pair costing $4 with a 75 mm bass driver sounded okay if the volume was limited. Many two ways with a 125 or 150 mm bsss drivers were thrown away. A pair bought for $5 with 175 mm bass driver and 50 mm and 25 mm drivers, sound pretty good, but in 350 mm x 800 mm x 200 mm partical board boxes they will not fit under the TV stand or on top of a kitchen cabinet. Their bass extension is not to 54 hz of my music room SP2(2004), being more like a boom box with a little boost in the 100-200 hz range.
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Something small and sealed and DSP-ed for bass. Made it, works like a charm for a kitchen. Mine is utterly simple - APO equalizer on a PC with stereo amplifier using mono FAST speaker (fullrange assisted with bass) and fully digital crossover with optimal parameter. The speaker is in the upper corner of the ceiling and it is perfectly DSP-ed in the digital domain. The sound is amazing and nearly for free.
Find a used pair of high end car speakers (with separate tweeter and woofer, so you can adjust xo) and flush mount them in the ceiling or wall (so no boxes).
Thanks for all your replies.
I have been looking at camilladsp during the week end, as dsp is probably a solution for peculiar speaker placement in the kitchen.
I got it running on my pi3B, and it's not conclusive so far, it pops and cracks too much with IIR filters. Probably needs a PI4 for this.
I have been looking at camilladsp during the week end, as dsp is probably a solution for peculiar speaker placement in the kitchen.
I got it running on my pi3B, and it's not conclusive so far, it pops and cracks too much with IIR filters. Probably needs a PI4 for this.
For noiser environments like kitchens, and other like it, bass reinforcements are undesirable. I preffer depress bass in order to enhance medium and highs to overcome noises like frying.