Hey everyone,
I'm in the process of building my first set of speakers. I started about six months ago and haven't had as much time as I wanted to work on them. Unfortunately I'm nearing the end of the cabinet build, and can't find my original notes on what I was actually going for. I've used WinISD and the various online websites, but they all give pretty different results using the same parameters. For example I think on Dayton's website for the RS180-8 it says for a Ported enclosure a volume of around 12.5L is ideal, but one of the online calculators says around 10L is best.
Anyways, I built enclosures that are roughly 13.9L without taking into account anything inside. Taking into account my bracing, the port volume, and the speakers themselves, I figure that puts me around 12.5L, which I imagine is what I originally set out to do since it's close to what Dayton recommends I think.
Putting that into WinISD and a box frequency of around 45Hz with a port of 4.3cm shows a port length of around 14cm and a 3dB frequency of around 46.5 Hz. Does that all sound right? My plan was to use the Monacor BR-50HP bassreflex port, which is 4.3cm x 141.mm, which is basically spot on.
Anything I'm missing here or should be doing differently? I can't increase the box size at this point, but I could drop it with some more bracing if for some reason that made sense.
Thanks.
I'm in the process of building my first set of speakers. I started about six months ago and haven't had as much time as I wanted to work on them. Unfortunately I'm nearing the end of the cabinet build, and can't find my original notes on what I was actually going for. I've used WinISD and the various online websites, but they all give pretty different results using the same parameters. For example I think on Dayton's website for the RS180-8 it says for a Ported enclosure a volume of around 12.5L is ideal, but one of the online calculators says around 10L is best.
Anyways, I built enclosures that are roughly 13.9L without taking into account anything inside. Taking into account my bracing, the port volume, and the speakers themselves, I figure that puts me around 12.5L, which I imagine is what I originally set out to do since it's close to what Dayton recommends I think.
Putting that into WinISD and a box frequency of around 45Hz with a port of 4.3cm shows a port length of around 14cm and a 3dB frequency of around 46.5 Hz. Does that all sound right? My plan was to use the Monacor BR-50HP bassreflex port, which is 4.3cm x 141.mm, which is basically spot on.
Anything I'm missing here or should be doing differently? I can't increase the box size at this point, but I could drop it with some more bracing if for some reason that made sense.
Thanks.
There are many, many RS180 builds in towers or bookshelves: have you compared what you've come up with to any of those?
Geoff
Geoff
Using the 180-8? I've seens a few using the 180-4, but not many using the -8 in aluminum. If you know of any, please point me at them.
Assuming you want a near-maximally flat alignment & the specs. are accurate (they usually are pretty close with the metal cone RS series) then it's about right, assuming there's about 0.5ohm series R in circuit to account for speaker wire loop resistance, connections, inductor DCR if relevant. I wouldn't try to decrease Vb as-is, since it doesn't have much leeway available for other external factors, and it's better to have a little Vb in hand when possible. If you find you want slightly more damping on the bottom end, you could always add some volume fill later, line the vent with wool felt, or stretch a few layers of grill-cloth over the internal end, as was traditionally done to help tune vented enclosures (for good reason: it works 😉 ).
I will work on 3way with dual RS180-8 for the bass. 15l for one woofer, BR tuning ~38Hz as initial target, tuning will be confirmed by the measurement and by the ears. So your ~13l and ~45Hz looks fine.
Have a look at Paul Carmody's Cores and Amigas, both in larger cabinets; there's a two way speaker called "Natalie P" which uses the RS180-8 and a few others.
Try searching "Dayton RS180 DIY speakers" and you should find some others too. On this Forum, there's a 2 way transmission line which uses the DC130A-8 but has been been scaled up for the RS180 also.
Geoff
Since the boxes are built & should be fine, I'd be inclined to leave as-is & simply tweak via adjusting the damping rather than starting from scratch.
I agree. Now focus on the more important things like tweeter, waveguide and crossover. That RS180 is a fine driver that deserves a solid design.
I'm open to suggestions, but my plan right now (because I already bought them ages ago for another project and I have them here already) is the SB26ADC-C000-4. It's 4 ohm, so I'll have to pad it down. But it seems like it's pretty highly regarded. I'm planning to cross around 2k, and the Fs of that tweeter is pretty low.
I recommend you search for information on Jeff Bagby‘s TANGO speaker using the RS180-8 with an 1800hz crossover.