The value isn't desperately critical and you would be fine 10,000uF 50 or 63v working but check the physical dimensions before you buy.
Those two big reservoir caps are just normal electrolytic types. Try to 105C rating rather than 85C.
The gunge on the board is just just glue to secure the caps, are you sure they are actually faulty?
Those two big reservoir caps are just normal electrolytic types. Try to 105C rating rather than 85C.
The gunge on the board is just just glue to secure the caps, are you sure they are actually faulty?
Thanks! definitely not glue, it's fragile and crackly, and I can see the black juice coming from 1 of the caps. Thank you for the info tho! there are just so many choices, I was hoping someone could recommend a specific one.
Not specifically. I would have to trawl the catalogues and see what was available. Don't buy off eBay, there are loads of fakes around, always buy from authorised suppliers which in the UK would be the likes of Farnell, CPC, Mouser and Digikey.
That really really really 🙂 sounds like glue. What I see in the pictures I would say is glue. If there is actual 'wet' electrolyte leaking from a cap then that is a problem but usually leaky electrolyte dries whitish and flaky.
I think thats the horrid yellow glue that becomes brown/black and conductive with age though, better to carefully strip it off the PCB in case it deteriorates. The cap's datecode is 1992 so they are probably good for a while - though if the unit's open its worth checking their state - new one's would be good for a long while...
Since you've removed them, might as well replace them if you can find suitable parts, even if they are still good.
It is critical that the new capacitor diameter will fit. The new one must be close to the same or less in diameter.
Maybe the height is a constraint also, check that. Verify the hole spacing, since this is required to be correct.
Minimum requirements: 8200uF or more, 50V or more, high ripple current, low ESR type.
It is critical that the new capacitor diameter will fit. The new one must be close to the same or less in diameter.
Maybe the height is a constraint also, check that. Verify the hole spacing, since this is required to be correct.
Minimum requirements: 8200uF or more, 50V or more, high ripple current, low ESR type.
can you find one for me? I don't understand the esr or ripple. Mouser won't let me join and digikey I just signed up
so they need to approve me.
so they need to approve me.
Here's what leaky caps look like.
They eat the copper traces and component pins.
Very aggressive stuff unlike the glue that keep bigger parts in place.
Some more pics: https://www.alltrac.net/index.php?threads/ecu-leaky-capacitor-repair.52355/
Hugo
They eat the copper traces and component pins.
Very aggressive stuff unlike the glue that keep bigger parts in place.
Some more pics: https://www.alltrac.net/index.php?threads/ecu-leaky-capacitor-repair.52355/
Hugo
Here is a search for 8,200-10,000uF for 50-63V, 105-dgree, assumed 25-30mm diameter with 10mm spaced snap-in leads. You will need to verify diameter of cap and height to ensure they will fit. I sorted by price, as most any new capacitor will likely have as good or better ratings than those you pulled out. Don't worry about all the specs, just pick a good quality manufacturer (Rubycon, Nichicon, Chemi-Con, etc.) and as long as it fits your board (see above) you will be fine.
Mouser Capacitor search
Accurately measure the diameter, length, and lead spacing.
Measuring the distance between the centers of the pcb holes is best.
Also, measure how much empty space is left above the caps when the cover is on.