As can be seen, the nylon part is broken and wet with oil and cannot be reliably fixed.
I am looking to find an exact replacement.
Appears to be a 100K (probably audio taper) pot.
Can anyone recommend part numbers for a suitable replacement that will drop in?
I am looking to find an exact replacement.
Appears to be a 100K (probably audio taper) pot.
Can anyone recommend part numbers for a suitable replacement that will drop in?
Maybe you can get it from McIntosh.
Attached is the service manual.
Look on page 21 parts list for R201-1, R202-1 Gain Controls, Part Number 134-273.
I know it's a stretch but worth checking out.
Attached is the service manual.
Look on page 21 parts list for R201-1, R202-1 Gain Controls, Part Number 134-273.
I know it's a stretch but worth checking out.
I've not had much luck with McIntosh since the management changed. They don't seem to care to help 3rd party shops they way they used to. My last two parts requests went unanswered. Even so, I sent them the part numbers the other day and asked for a quote, but received no response.
OK. Is it the volume, balance, or tone control pot? The track looks intact so you can measure the resistance...
But, assuming you want a 100k log track, 3/8"bush, you could try P231-FC20AR100K from Digikey. The shaft is a bit short but you may be able t fudge something or graft the existing shaft/bushing on to the new body. Or if you can fit a bigger body diameter, then CA1041E (also Digikey)
But, assuming you want a 100k log track, 3/8"bush, you could try P231-FC20AR100K from Digikey. The shaft is a bit short but you may be able t fudge something or graft the existing shaft/bushing on to the new body. Or if you can fit a bigger body diameter, then CA1041E (also Digikey)
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These are individual volume controls on the power amplifier. The second part you listed could work. There's enough room for the slightly larger body.
Swapping shafts/bushings does not appear to be a workable option due to the swaged on plastic fitting inside.
Option #2 could work, but will required cutting and grinding of the shaft to fit the half round of the original.
Holy smokes, $50 each? And being 2 watts rating, I wonder if it's going to have the feel of a rheostat rather than a volume control.
Swapping shafts/bushings does not appear to be a workable option due to the swaged on plastic fitting inside.
Option #2 could work, but will required cutting and grinding of the shaft to fit the half round of the original.
Holy smokes, $50 each? And being 2 watts rating, I wonder if it's going to have the feel of a rheostat rather than a volume control.
That could work. And at 1/20th the price too. I could order two and change both pots to ensure they match gain between channels.
Some of those are 1/8" pipe threads.
Get them with nuts, so you will not be stuck.
Starts about 25 cents here for the part in Chris' photo.
Should be 100k range, 1000 k is rare.
Get them with nuts, so you will not be stuck.
Starts about 25 cents here for the part in Chris' photo.
Should be 100k range, 1000 k is rare.
I managed to get a part to work for the pots.
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/279-23ESB104MMF50NF
Now I am attempting to purchase a power switch from a seller on eBay, but am unable to do so for some reason.
I've been on eBay since May 1999, and have zero strikes or unpaid purchases, so there must be some other problem.
At any rate, anyone have another source for this switch?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/155703577437
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/279-23ESB104MMF50NF
Now I am attempting to purchase a power switch from a seller on eBay, but am unable to do so for some reason.
I've been on eBay since May 1999, and have zero strikes or unpaid purchases, so there must be some other problem.
At any rate, anyone have another source for this switch?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/155703577437
Look for 'rotary cam switch', it is a very common industrial electrical part, you may need to modify the shaft for the knob.
I wish I had found that earlier! Customer already spent over $90 to buy the one on ebay which is of questionable quality.
Nothing was coming up in all my mouser searches.
Oh well, now we wait. But this will be good for future repairs.
Oh, the current rating is only 2.5A. That won't work for the inrush current.
Nothing was coming up in all my mouser searches.
Oh well, now we wait. But this will be good for future repairs.
Oh, the current rating is only 2.5A. That won't work for the inrush current.
Rating is based on break current to avoid burn out from arcing on breaking the current.
5A continuous and inrush is not continuous.
5A continuous and inrush is not continuous.
I spent some time on trying to repair the old switch last night. My method was to use a soldering iron to melt the plastic and reconnect the two halves. Then as an extra measure of strength, I used two part epoxy to further reinforce the plastic part.
This afternoon I assembled the switch and tested it and it works just fine now.
This afternoon I assembled the switch and tested it and it works just fine now.
Glad you have it resolved!👍
If higher current contacts rating required, the Omron G7L can handle 30A@250VAC.
Yes, C&K switch only rated for 2.5A. However, if its parameters fit within the MC2200 switch size, you can use it to control a 120VAC coil relay, such as the Omron G2R-1A-T-AC120, whose contacts are rated 10A@380VAC. With some extra work, the total parts cost will be about $20.
If higher current contacts rating required, the Omron G7L can handle 30A@250VAC.
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I wanted to keep the repair simple and not add alot of additional labor. The alternative route I could go is using a triac with the switch, which I do for the bigger Hafler amps.