Hello humans, I'm fairly new to this fascinating hobby, a few weeks or so. I have a set of Wharfedale Mach 5 speakers which I found far to bright, especially that mid driver. So I'm looking into bi-amping them since they already have banana plugs in the back. It looks like I can just feed the woofer directly and use the crossover network for the mid and tweeter. Just by moving the red and black wires from the circuit protection board to my woofer driver. My setup is laptop to amplifier (Onkyo HT-R380) via hdmi. I plan to use software for active crossovers. Thoughts? Im looking for holes in this theory, so poke away.
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Your problem is that the speakers sound too bright. Before you dive in with active bi-amping did you satisfy yourself that the built in cross-over is the cause of the problem and that bi-amping is the best solution ?
In the old days, we just turned down the treble, or use toe-in / toe-out.
Sometimes we suspect the amplifier or further upstream.
In the old days, we just turned down the treble, or use toe-in / toe-out.
Sometimes we suspect the amplifier or further upstream.
Are you sure your room is not what's bright? Most are.
Also try a different height speaker stand. Usually the tweeter should be at your seated ear height.
Also try a different height speaker stand. Usually the tweeter should be at your seated ear height.
They are usually towed in about 30 degrees, blankets on some surfaces, mattress in rear center. My bic formula 1s are great for evening listening and my sb-zr831s are very bass heavy but sound good. I usually use a high shelf filter around 100Hz @ -5dB. I like the idea of controlling the signal being processed by the DAC and amplifier. I'm working on the acustics of the room, but the technical side of things is quite interesting as well.
Oh, and price is not an issue. I literally move two wires in the speakers and make up a set of wires with fuses.
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As you've decided to go down this path, and heck it's all for fun, what you have planned sounds reasonable - BUT it might be good if you can post more information about the existing cross over and where you plan to change it to hook up your amplifiers directly - just in case somebody spots a concern.
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I have found various speakers too bright over the years. I think my ears just don't like metal tweeters in a multi-way with flat frequency response, or it could be that the cross-over was not steep enough to stop the mid-woof break-up modes coming through when the speaker was pushed hard. You can explore these kinds of issues.
Also I've been using equalizer apo. It seems to be effective. Is there a better program for this purpose?