When you remove that diode, do both pins 4 and 16 go to 0v?
Is D26 in your amp the same as in the sla diagram below?
Is D26 in your amp the same as in the sla diagram below?
Both pins goes to 0v
The cathod connect directly to pin 16 and the anode direct to where the negative side of c94 was supposed to be connected.Also D2 looks like it was removed.
The cathod connect directly to pin 16 and the anode direct to where the negative side of c94 was supposed to be connected.Also D2 looks like it was removed.
I think it is being used the same way but there is no Q48 in my amp and I did get 1k ohm reading from that diode to any of the transistors.
Look at the protection section of the SLA amp where D26 is and see if you can locate that circuit in your amp. If you do, check the transistors. They can short or go leaky, causing the amp to go into protect.
In the SLA a section of circuit board trace is used as the shunt resistor to monitor the speaker output current. In your amp, the shunt resistor is the M-shaped resistor.
In the SLA a section of circuit board trace is used as the shunt resistor to monitor the speaker output current. In your amp, the shunt resistor is the M-shaped resistor.
The thermerl switch is the problem .when it is clamp to the heatsink I read 0 ohms across it.It’s like the force is causing it to bridge on the inside
You (I) don't see many of those any more. Thermistors are so much cheaper (or, they were the last time I bought those thermostats).
I filled the back with heatsink compound and didn't clamp it that tight.I will give it a run to maker sure its still functional.
Thanks for the help.
Thanks for the help.
If you need a replacement, Mouser has them (assuming that this is a thermostat and not a thermistor in a TO-220 package).