Does anyone know the name of this style of LED? Any guesses on who makes something like that today? I'm not totally sure, but I believe It's 20w and most likely a high current, low voltage type
They're called COB (Chip on board) LEDs. Like you guessed they're high powered.
I've seen them up to 100W and more. Usually mounted on a large heatsink.
CREE, Samsung, Bridgelux, and Citizen are some major manufacturers, a lot made in china too.
There are a lot of variations of this type of LED so finding one like it
might be difficult.
I've seen them up to 100W and more. Usually mounted on a large heatsink.
CREE, Samsung, Bridgelux, and Citizen are some major manufacturers, a lot made in china too.
There are a lot of variations of this type of LED so finding one like it
might be difficult.
Another thing is that these go through major changes in production, and the models change very fast, so actually obtaining the part will be another issue.
And within that package, you will have many variants from the same supplier.
And getting a small quantity will be a new problem, those sell in reels of 500.
A friend makes the aviation tower lights for buildings (to warn planes), so I know that the batch to batch variation is common, he buys up several months of material at a time, from Osram, Seoul, Everlight or whatever is available at the time he needs them.
Best is to check that the supply still works, and put a slightly lower rated device, LED failures are rare.
And there are direct driven ceramic packages available, they run on mains, no driver is involved.
Those sometimes come with a mounting frame, to hold it against the heat sink.
And the wholesale price for those may be $5 or so, you see what they quote for a single or few units.
And within that package, you will have many variants from the same supplier.
And getting a small quantity will be a new problem, those sell in reels of 500.
A friend makes the aviation tower lights for buildings (to warn planes), so I know that the batch to batch variation is common, he buys up several months of material at a time, from Osram, Seoul, Everlight or whatever is available at the time he needs them.
Best is to check that the supply still works, and put a slightly lower rated device, LED failures are rare.
And there are direct driven ceramic packages available, they run on mains, no driver is involved.
Those sometimes come with a mounting frame, to hold it against the heat sink.
And the wholesale price for those may be $5 or so, you see what they quote for a single or few units.
The supply should be a constant current type, I have seen 10W chip on board drivers running at 12 and 32 V, check that first before giving an order.
And some, if you see through a dark glass, are actually multiple LEDs in series. That needs a higher voltage supply than others.
And if it has done more than 4000 hours, simply upgrade the device, as 5 years old items, once obsolete, their parts never make it to the replacement market.
And some, if you see through a dark glass, are actually multiple LEDs in series. That needs a higher voltage supply than others.
And if it has done more than 4000 hours, simply upgrade the device, as 5 years old items, once obsolete, their parts never make it to the replacement market.
Thanks for the replies. I wasn't clear enough in my first post, so here some more info:
The LED goes into a light-effect for disco/stage. The light must emit from a single point (or close to), so the bigger COB modules do not work for this. Notice that the actual LED´s under the yellow top-coat are placed within a pretty small area.
I dont need an exact 1:1 replacement. Most important I need a +20W LED with a very small light-emitting-area. Would prefer the rating to be around 1500mA/15V ish....
This will never justify expensive lamp-replacements. I'm mostly asking here because Im curious as to why this specific type of LED are so hard to find, when other LED´s can be found all over.
Kind regards TroelsM
The LED goes into a light-effect for disco/stage. The light must emit from a single point (or close to), so the bigger COB modules do not work for this. Notice that the actual LED´s under the yellow top-coat are placed within a pretty small area.
I dont need an exact 1:1 replacement. Most important I need a +20W LED with a very small light-emitting-area. Would prefer the rating to be around 1500mA/15V ish....
This will never justify expensive lamp-replacements. I'm mostly asking here because Im curious as to why this specific type of LED are so hard to find, when other LED´s can be found all over.
Kind regards TroelsM
Sounds like a narrow focus lens is used, so get that as well when getting the LED, that is more or less used as a set, and they are cheap, $2 or so in the USA.
That will save you some trouble, and shipment if needed later.
Lenses typically come in 3 / 8 / 15 / 22 degrees beam angles, and the internal shape can vary from LED to LED.
So check, and see what is to be done.
Also, see if a repair service is provided for these in a studio / theater equipment forum, these systems are to be used for many years (but low hours per year), so it may be repairable, from sources available there.
That will save you some trouble, and shipment if needed later.
Lenses typically come in 3 / 8 / 15 / 22 degrees beam angles, and the internal shape can vary from LED to LED.
So check, and see what is to be done.
Also, see if a repair service is provided for these in a studio / theater equipment forum, these systems are to be used for many years (but low hours per year), so it may be repairable, from sources available there.
There are available tiny 3 x 3 mm SMD LEDs that may fill your needs, but they are difficult to use in a repair situation like this.
The practical aspect of fitting it to precisely emit a narrow needs a lot of work.
And the heat dissipation will need careful planning.
You can try reading LED trade magazines for more information.
The practical aspect of fitting it to precisely emit a narrow needs a lot of work.
And the heat dissipation will need careful planning.
You can try reading LED trade magazines for more information.
May well have been special order - this style of emitter is made with wire-bonding multiple blue LED dies onto a substrate, then depositing some yellow fluoro gel on top, this one seems to have a fancy heatsink built-in and therefore could well be bespoke.
Every white LED is made like that, UV / blue LED is coated with a yellow fluorescent pigment which converts that to visible light.
That is a fascinating topic, and the principle is similar to fluorescent lamps, which are naturally UV emitters, the coating on the glass makes the light emitted to be much more visible.
The seller in China linked to above is offering a similar LED, but I would be careful, there are many sellers there, and many factories, dud parts are common there.
Stick to a known source, and do compare the cost landed at your door, as some sellers cover their loss on part price in the shipping charges.
And believe me, if the product is fast selling, there will be like 100 makers copying that item, with quality variation.
As such, it is a common 'Power LED', the hassle is finding an exact match.
The LED is deposited on an aluminum slug, and coated with epoxy type material to form the lens.
Lead wires are attached, as expected, then connected to the tabs.
That slug acts as the initial heat conductor, and the attachment style (paste / thermal glue / mechanical lock after heat sink paste) varies with cost and power dissipation requirement.
That is a fascinating topic, and the principle is similar to fluorescent lamps, which are naturally UV emitters, the coating on the glass makes the light emitted to be much more visible.
The seller in China linked to above is offering a similar LED, but I would be careful, there are many sellers there, and many factories, dud parts are common there.
Stick to a known source, and do compare the cost landed at your door, as some sellers cover their loss on part price in the shipping charges.
And believe me, if the product is fast selling, there will be like 100 makers copying that item, with quality variation.
As such, it is a common 'Power LED', the hassle is finding an exact match.
The LED is deposited on an aluminum slug, and coated with epoxy type material to form the lens.
Lead wires are attached, as expected, then connected to the tabs.
That slug acts as the initial heat conductor, and the attachment style (paste / thermal glue / mechanical lock after heat sink paste) varies with cost and power dissipation requirement.
