Sony STR-6045 - Styrol capacitors

Hi All,

I continue my learning journey into electronic and vintage amplifier. With the help of @Moolie, I brought back to life a Sony STR-6045.

It was all working well including AM/FM except for this little stereo lamp indicator that would not light up.

I traced the problem back to a few transistors when I decided to measure the capacitors in this area while I was at it. There was one capacitor I could not test (the service manual called it “Styrol”). I said to myself, let’s desolder it without investigating further what it was. Stupid me! 😡 I discovered that these Polystyrene caps have very fragile leads and managed to break one.

Sony_STR-6045-Styrol_cap.png



It seems that it can now be replaced nowadays by Polypropylene caps or Ceramic (NPO COG) depending on its usage.

I see a few threads on DIYAudio.com but they are now getting old, so I thought I would ask. My question to you all, is what is it used for exactly and what would you recommend as a replacement?

This styrol capacitor (C320) is on the input of the transformer (T301) on the schematic.

Sony_STR-6045_MPX-encoder_voltages(2).png



Some more details from the manual for those of you interested:

Stereo-mono automatic switching circuit Q304, D303, D304, D305, D306:

This prevents noisy stereo reception by automatically switching the MPX decoder’s operation into the monaural mode.

Noise signals above 19 kHz are extracted from the emitter circuit of Q301 and applied to the base of 0304 through a high-pass filter (L302, C306).

The coupling capacitor C307 filters out audio components so that the input signal is primarily high-frequency noise.

This noise signal is amplified by Q304 to drive voltage doubler D304 and D306. D305 provides positive fixed bias for Q304 through D306 and D304.

When a weak stereo signal or interstation noise is received the output of D304 is fed back to the base of Q304, and drives Q304 into conduction.

This in turn shorts the frequency doubler output to ground through R315, preventing amplification of the incoming signal, and therefore operation of the 38 kHz amplifier and stereo indicator circuit, Q302 and Q303.

When a stereo signal is received, the signal-to-noise ratio increases, reducing the noise signal It the base of Q304. Therefore Q304 turns off and enables the stereo demodulator circuit to operate.


38 kHz amplifier Q302:

The 38 kHz pulses produced by D301 and D302 are amplified by Q3302. The tank circuit at the collector of Q302 is tuned to 38 kHz to restore these pulses to a sinusoidal waveform. This signal is transformer coupled to the bridge type demodulator to supply sampling drive for the demodulator.

STEREO lamp circuit Q303:

The STEREO indicator lights when the FUNCTION switch is set to the FM AUTO STEREO position and an fm stereo signal is received. The emitter of Q302 is connected to the base of Q303 which is normally cut off.

The circuit operates as follows:

When a composite stereo signal is applied to the multiplex decoder, the 38 kHz pulses produced at output of the frequency doubler yield a higher average current flow through Q302. This forces Q303 into conduction, lighting STEREO indicator lamp PL901.

Thank you all in advance for your help and precious advice.
 
That capacitor tunes the circuit to 38kHz, so the value and precision is important.
Use a low inductance polypropylene film type, with short leads.

The T301 adjustment may need to be retuned after capacitor replacement.
 
Ouch! I was trying to avoid a retuning has I don't have a scope yet and I'm being told, it is not easy. Thanks for the advice. When choosing polypropylene is it better metallized or pure polypropylene?

Is 6 nH/cm for the total length of capacitor winding and the leads considered low inductance? Not all datasheet list the inductance.
 
Whichever cap you use will have to properly fit the pcb without much extra lead length, so radial style.
This PS radial foil cap may work ok. For an extra charge they'll sort to a better tolerance.

Expensive, but at least there's only one of them. Parts Connexion doesn't have any.
And don't mess with any of the others, either. You've been warned.
https://www.soniccraft.com/product_info.php/rte-4700-pf-400vdc-p-326
 
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You can ask them, and they'll tell you what they can do. That's about 2% low, if your tester is good.
Allow for the test fixture lead capacitance, unless you zeroed it out..

Check first to see how the radial leads will fit the pcb footprint.
 
It seems that it can now be replaced nowadays by Polypropylene caps or Ceramic (NPO COG) depending on its usage.
Polypropylene may not be stable enough for RF oscillator service, I suggest going with NP0 / C0G. You need a low tempco so things stay in tune as the box warms up.
Polystyrene is below its glass transition temperature so is mainly crystalline, whereas PP is above it and rubbery, leading to higher thermal expansion for one thing.
PPS might be another candidate.
 
Thank you all. It seems I'm starting to have some interesting options. The real thing at Sonic Craft if lead spacing is okay and shipping cost to Canada does not make it prohibitive is probably the best one.

If not, I will order a few NPO/COG and PPS and select the closest match in capacitance.
 
Your cap, a polystyrol cap, has a negativ temperatur coefficient that almost matchs the positive tempco of the coil and thus keeps the resonant frequency almost temperature undependend. Use a polystyrol cap as replacement, it is the best solution to your problem. RIFA, a swedish company, made such caps (now owned by Vishay, i thinck)
 
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This discussion is getting even more interesting. Although everyone agrees that the best replacement is with the same material, some thinks capacitance stability is important, some thinks negative tempco is. Not sure how high the temperature can gets but I read that polystyrene does not support more than 85 degrees C. According to this graph, it seems capacitance of Polystyrene can not drop more than half a percent. Polypropylene would be about 1% at 85 C.

In the 50 degrees range, the difference seems negligible.

I'm almost tempted to turn this problem into an experiment where I would test with different type of capacitors!
 
It has been a while so I thought I could provide some updates. After all, I decided to not pursue my experiments and just purchase the real thing. Fortunately, I was able to find a polystyrene capacitor for cheap at Mouser that measured 4600pf. Close enough to the 4590pf one that I needed to replace.

No significant difference in the tuning so I don't think an alignment will be necessary. I'm just missing 2.2V on the stereo light but this will be the subject of another post.

Thank you all for your assistance and valuable opinions on this thread.
 
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