Hi all. My old Krell KSA300S is in need of new electrolytics. So i want to buy a complete set of capacitors (maybe also the 4x68000 uF in the psu). Would anyone happen to have a list of the all electrolytics (capacitance, voltage rating and physical size)?
Thanks
Thanks
Are you going to do this job yourself ?
You will just have to open the unit. Look at each cap, and go looking at suppliers websites.
There is no magic list.
You will just have to open the unit. Look at each cap, and go looking at suppliers websites.
There is no magic list.
Yes im doing it myself. And yes i can do as you suggested but it needs to be taken apart to get a look at each cap, and as such i would be living without music the hole time while waiting for the caps to arrive. It would be a lot nicer if i could wait until having all the caps in possession.. Anyway it's not the end of the world - but i figured that it wouldent hurt to ask.
Btw how do you know there's no magic list? Maybe a Krell owner or previeous Krell owner once did the cap job - and if such a person where to exist he would probably have made such a list and also have an invoice from the purchase.
Btw how do you know there's no magic list? Maybe a Krell owner or previeous Krell owner once did the cap job - and if such a person where to exist he would probably have made such a list and also have an invoice from the purchase.
Of course, the physical size is not included which is sometimes
a problem because most caps have decreased in size and more important, lead spacing also.
This particularly for snap-in caps.
Hugo
a problem because most caps have decreased in size and more important, lead spacing also.
This particularly for snap-in caps.
Hugo
I just had mine at Krell where they did fantastic work on doing just what you're attempting. This may not be an exhaustive list as I don't believe the replaced every last cap. Some were still measuring fine.
I should add that, as mentioned above, the caps are not all the same size as the originals and thus requires some workarounds. The other aspect that I thought was particularly important was the way they were mounted off the boards giving them air to cool themselves better.
I hope this helps.
I should add that, as mentioned above, the caps are not all the same size as the originals and thus requires some workarounds. The other aspect that I thought was particularly important was the way they were mounted off the boards giving them air to cool themselves better.
I hope this helps.
Thank you for sharing that list. It look's to be in accordance with the schematic, except for the 6800uF caps. That might be a replacement for the original size 2x1500uF on each output board.
I suggest you check that the physical equipment has the same values as the diagram on paper, many times they do not match
Thanks for posting Chuck_Norris. That's the same version I found floating around elsewhere. Seems like there are several revisions of hardware, but only 1 revision of schematic floating around. I'm looking for the REV G faceplate schematic. (and also wondering what changed in the Rev H and beyond.) I'll start a new thread.
I sometimes experience distortion or signal loss in one channel when it is cold. Then by turning it off, waiting a few seconds, and then turning it on again the problem goes away. Also the capacitors are 30 years old now so it's high time in any case.
I'd try to find the reason or the cause of the malfunction. Replacing capacitors without any real reason is wasting money, time, and maybe you can provoke another failure. Replacing capacitor has arrived to audio world like it were some kind of religion practice, a practice carried out like a tradition, a dogma, but, never trying to find the real cause of what is happening.
The symptoms you describe can be a relay, bad joint solder, a bad connection, and who knows, a capacitor, but one capacitor, not all.
The symptoms you describe can be a relay, bad joint solder, a bad connection, and who knows, a capacitor, but one capacitor, not all.
Of course i cant know for sure that the problem is caused by an electrolytic, and you might be right about a bad solder joint, but given that they are 30 years old it is a pretty good bet. And because of their age i would change them no matter what.. If you think that changing 30 year old electrolytic's is a religious practice then you clearly don't know that they all have a limited operational lifespan - this is always written by the manufacures. Essentially there are three failure modes of a capacitor:
First one is a shorted capacitor, that failure can do a lot of damage to the surrounding components. And when that happens you will be kicking yourself for thinking that is was all a bunch of woodoo. I have seen that happen in an old Sansui amp.
The second way a capacitor can fail is it becomes an open circuit - essentially it is no longer a capacitor. This will likely not cause damage but it will cause some of the circuit to not function.
Third the actual value has changed to the point it has degraded function. This will likely not damage other components but the circuit will likely not work properly. This is what i suspect has happened in my amp.
Based on your reaction i think it is entirely possible that you have come across a lot of people who have been to hasty at chancing capacitors because they didn't know what else to do, and as such you have now reached a conclusion that chancing capacitors is a business for amateur's. And even though that might be true in some cases it does not change the physics of electrolytic capacitors - Eventually they dry out.
First one is a shorted capacitor, that failure can do a lot of damage to the surrounding components. And when that happens you will be kicking yourself for thinking that is was all a bunch of woodoo. I have seen that happen in an old Sansui amp.
The second way a capacitor can fail is it becomes an open circuit - essentially it is no longer a capacitor. This will likely not cause damage but it will cause some of the circuit to not function.
Third the actual value has changed to the point it has degraded function. This will likely not damage other components but the circuit will likely not work properly. This is what i suspect has happened in my amp.
Based on your reaction i think it is entirely possible that you have come across a lot of people who have been to hasty at chancing capacitors because they didn't know what else to do, and as such you have now reached a conclusion that chancing capacitors is a business for amateur's. And even though that might be true in some cases it does not change the physics of electrolytic capacitors - Eventually they dry out.
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I know capacitors have a limited operational lifespan, but not only capacitors, all components, all in the Universe is subject to the second law of thermodynamics. Short circuits are rare in chemical electrolitic capacitors. I've seen some pics of Krell devices on Google, the only capacitors that I'd change are Roederstein "Roe", they are very "Made in Germany", but its perfomance are like the worst "Made in China".
Yes everthing will turn to dust some day. But electrolytic's are first in line when it comes to electronics - especially true if they have been subjected to a lot of heat or if they have been out of use for a long time. And you want to change them before they degrade/fail if you want your amp to perform the best.
I dont recall having seen any Roederstein in my amp - maybe there was a cap type variation between the different revisions?
I dont recall having seen any Roederstein in my amp - maybe there was a cap type variation between the different revisions?