Hi ,
I’ve recently acquired the above vintage sub which is a match for the JR149 speakers, the previous owner nor I know how to connect it to the amp or speakers ( input or output)
Is there anyway to test which goes where other than trial and error and could i damage something if say I connected the input to output ?
Can’t find a schematic anywhere.
I’ve recently acquired the above vintage sub which is a match for the JR149 speakers, the previous owner nor I know how to connect it to the amp or speakers ( input or output)
Is there anyway to test which goes where other than trial and error and could i damage something if say I connected the input to output ?
Can’t find a schematic anywhere.
Each of the two connection blocks (one for each of the L and R channels) has four terminals.
I read that the wires connected to those terminals are colour coded, so unscrew the terminals to expose the wires.
The colour coding on each channel is said to be: Orange, Green with Yellow trace, Red with Blue trace, Red
Each amp channel is connected thus:
Red = + input
Red with Blue trace = - input
Each JR 149 is connected thus:
Orange = + output
Green with Yellow trace = - output
I read it here: https://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?10789-Rogers-DW2-Subwoofer-Connectivity-Advice-Please
I read that the wires connected to those terminals are colour coded, so unscrew the terminals to expose the wires.
The colour coding on each channel is said to be: Orange, Green with Yellow trace, Red with Blue trace, Red
Each amp channel is connected thus:
Red = + input
Red with Blue trace = - input
Each JR 149 is connected thus:
Orange = + output
Green with Yellow trace = - output
I read it here: https://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?10789-Rogers-DW2-Subwoofer-Connectivity-Advice-Please
Hi , yes I read that too but upon removing the blocks these have different coloured wires , that discussion may be more relevant to the jr super woofer .
Perhaps as there are 2 blue wires ( maybe negative) output could be orange and blue and input white and blue ?
While attempting to identify which is the input pair of wires I would want to avoid any possible risk of damage to an expensive amplifier.
I would use one of my non-essential amplifiers to determine which terminals energise the subwoofer (there would be no need to connect the satellte speakers at that stage).
I would use one of my non-essential amplifiers to determine which terminals energise the subwoofer (there would be no need to connect the satellte speakers at that stage).
Before you connect it to an amplifier, try test it with a DMM.
I think the input go to a 2 way crossover, low pass to internal woofers and high pass to JR149 speaker.
Since most high pass filter usually has capacitor in series, and low pass filter does not. My suggestion is test with a ohm meter across white/blue taps and also the orange/blue taps.
The taps for amplifier input should has about 3Ω to 10Ω resistance and the taps go low in a second than go very high resistance is for output to satellte speaker.
It would be helpful if you should share the results you obtained when following the suggestion made by chrisng in post #8.
Looking at the construction of the inductors, I would say that the the orange and blue wires in the lower section carry the input to the woofer, while the white and blue wires in the upper section carry the output to the satellite speakers.
Sorted now , up and running but the sub makes very little difference though I can feel that it’s working.
Perhaps those very old Alcap capacitors need replacing?
Perhaps those very old Alcap capacitors need replacing?
The contribution of the subwoofer should be subtle. It should blend in and not be identifiable as a separate entity.
Alcap capacitors can maintain their capacitance and ESR values for many years.
If you do replace them, use modern bipolar electrolytic capacitors in order to emulate the sound balance intended by the manufacturer.
Out of interest, can you read and tell us their uF and working voltage values?
Alcap capacitors can maintain their capacitance and ESR values for many years.
If you do replace them, use modern bipolar electrolytic capacitors in order to emulate the sound balance intended by the manufacturer.
Out of interest, can you read and tell us their uF and working voltage values?
I can only measure the values once disconnected.
The sound is subtle but it doesn’t add anymore bass which is surely it’s purpose.
The sound is subtle but it doesn’t add anymore bass which is surely it’s purpose.
Can't you read the values written on the capacitors?
Subwoofer placement in the room affects results so try experimenting with that.
Unlike with the satellite speakers, it is alright to try putting it in a corner.
Subwoofer placement in the room affects results so try experimenting with that.
Unlike with the satellite speakers, it is alright to try putting it in a corner.
Were you able to inspect the condition of the actual drivers in the sub?
Could they have foam surrounds that have perished?
Could they have foam surrounds that have perished?
Standard value so easy to obtain. I would replace the Alcaps as a matter of course.
https://willys-hifi.com/collections...100uf-100v-bipolar-electrolytic-capacitor-raw
Out of interest, what's the value of the little maroon coloured capacitor?
https://willys-hifi.com/collections...100uf-100v-bipolar-electrolytic-capacitor-raw
Out of interest, what's the value of the little maroon coloured capacitor?