Sarcastically said ^. I's there a best / easiest way to also do ceiling and walls inside to further isolate noise? It might be good to cut 5" holes and get stuff blown in for the walls instead? The ceiling, tedious hand filling might be the only way, what do you think? Without ruining the existing wall board, keeping it intact. The idea is to double the existing 3/4" board along with adding wool, strictly for keeping unwanted sounds out and wanted sounds in. The partitions are all interior.
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Hmm, historically, wall insulation is blown in from the attic by drilling holes in the wall's top plates, then the ceiling proper. 'Been there, done that' with a rented system and saved a significant 'coin of the realm' wishing I'd 'paid the price' for pro installed and if I ever were to need it again I'd opt for dust free foam.
Pick up a copy of F. Alton Everest's building a home studio on a budget. A cheap 1 hour read.
Insulation is going to do nothing for low frequencies, but very effective for high frequencies.
You need the walls absolutely air tight, no leaks., at all. and you need mass loading to stop low frequencies. A second course of sheetrock rotated 90 degrees from the first held in place with elastomeric glue is the fastest Rx for adding mass to a wall
Insulation is going to do nothing for low frequencies, but very effective for high frequencies.
You need the walls absolutely air tight, no leaks., at all. and you need mass loading to stop low frequencies. A second course of sheetrock rotated 90 degrees from the first held in place with elastomeric glue is the fastest Rx for adding mass to a wall
I will work on the ceiling first and foremost. Ever try to maintain your focus (and your cool) when people are walking on aging badly squeaking oak floor boards in the rooms overhead? I can't decide which would be worse, that or constant nails down a black board. It reached a point where its intolerable.
I'll also take measures to lesson floor movement upstairs. In the meantime I'm hoping more sound proofing will pay off. I grabbed another bag of rockwool. If there's some left can be used in acoustic treatments.
For starters I got a hole saw to gain access then manually fill in the cavities.
I'll also take measures to lesson floor movement upstairs. In the meantime I'm hoping more sound proofing will pay off. I grabbed another bag of rockwool. If there's some left can be used in acoustic treatments.
For starters I got a hole saw to gain access then manually fill in the cavities.
I've soundproofed one room and reduced sound transmission in one other room.
----Rockboard 60/80 - Resilient Channel - 5/8 Drywall - NO HVAC Supply or Return----
Follow that and you will be amazed. Not 100 percent noise isolation but more than close enough to call it soundproofed.
If room acoustics is part of the design goal it should be designed/installed after.
Note: for basements or first floor in 2 storey, to save money you could compress pink in ceilings and add 4" rockboard on top.
I've done my share of reno's and have many plans for future ones. If removing existing materials is the best plan for proper final results, then removal it will
----Rockboard 60/80 - Resilient Channel - 5/8 Drywall - NO HVAC Supply or Return----
Follow that and you will be amazed. Not 100 percent noise isolation but more than close enough to call it soundproofed.
If room acoustics is part of the design goal it should be designed/installed after.
Note: for basements or first floor in 2 storey, to save money you could compress pink in ceilings and add 4" rockboard on top.
I've done my share of reno's and have many plans for future ones. If removing existing materials is the best plan for proper final results, then removal it will
I will remove when its a good idea. Someone put laminate over real oak floor thats badly scratched. The extra weight might of made it squeak even more, that stuff isn't exactly light. It can be restored, at least that would be my choice.
I figure with the wool and another layer of board will cut noise down quite a bit, well hoping. The house had a strong R value when it was tested. We just blew in attic insolation and windows aren't very old. Its great for bass.
I figure with the wool and another layer of board will cut noise down quite a bit, well hoping. The house had a strong R value when it was tested. We just blew in attic insolation and windows aren't very old. Its great for bass.
The trick to putting any sheet flooring over another floor is some sort of resilient interface between the two. The difference in footfall noise is amazing.
Yeah, in another lifetime we used jute for cars, flooring/coverings of all types till in more recent decades foam has become the norm.
Your supposed to put that thin layer of foam stuff down under the laminate floor, between it and the existing floor surface. Any way its sliced I never liked the stuff.
If by 'thin' you mean that foam 'a$$ wipe' that I've seen used in kitchen floor apps, not me! I'm talking (plush) carpet underlayment/padding.
I agree with ya' ^. That might be too much padding for it, it make it buckle at the seams (like Jimmy buckles). ... "if not used with our patented a$$ wipe padding you are on your own to enjoy your new squeaky floor".
The kitchen floor is as solid as concrete because thats under the tile. I remember when it was put down I watched the guy, over the cement he put heavy gauge steel mesh. He actually embedded the mesh in the surface with screw downs. Its good because it peaces me off when people take short cuts and choose doing sub standard work, mini rant over.
The kitchen floor is as solid as concrete because thats under the tile. I remember when it was put down I watched the guy, over the cement he put heavy gauge steel mesh. He actually embedded the mesh in the surface with screw downs. Its good because it peaces me off when people take short cuts and choose doing sub standard work, mini rant over.
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Well, for some types of DIY flooring you do have to 'deck' it to create a foam 'sandwich' or at least use the thick/dense interlocking tiles padding.
The floor upstairs in our house is on its own system of joists, while the ceiling downstairs also has its own structure, and they are not connected. This helps immensely to prevent sounds from either area from being heard in the other. A similar thing could be done with walls by putting the 2X 4s on their side, only attached at the top and bottom.
Ceilings are tricky because footfalls are directly connected to structure and thus have many available paths to flank soundproofing.
De-coupling with resilient channels is a good approach -- I supervised the construction of a small recording room that had to be situated in a basement furnace room, next to an ancient boiler, in a building steps away from a streetcar route -- so long as attention is paid to sealing every (necessary) gap with acoustic sealant.
Some idea of the assemblies required can be found in the CGC drywall guides.
Doubling up layers of 5/8" drywall is sound advice (sorry... couldn't resist).
Don't know much about the Green Glues...
De-coupling with resilient channels is a good approach -- I supervised the construction of a small recording room that had to be situated in a basement furnace room, next to an ancient boiler, in a building steps away from a streetcar route -- so long as attention is paid to sealing every (necessary) gap with acoustic sealant.
Some idea of the assemblies required can be found in the CGC drywall guides.
Doubling up layers of 5/8" drywall is sound advice (sorry... couldn't resist).
Don't know much about the Green Glues...
Double layers of drywall separated by 1/4” wood strips between the two sheets works well. It partially decouples the layers so the are less sound conductive paths. The first layer doesn’t vibrate the second layer. When we do voice over booths at work they are a box within a box design. The inner box doesn’t touch the outer box any more than absolutely necessary.
Oh yes, now it makes clearer sense when you said de couple the two systems. I recall that a distance back while researching this topic. To create pockets of open space. To be honest I'm a wizard at drywall repairing and tile or cutting out some pot lights. For the drywall itself I'll basically discuss what I want done and let a contacter at it.
I'll find a certified drywall guy, and then offer a cash job. Those guys can hang an entire room like this in about an hour or two I seen them work, talk about fast. Roughly 3-4 of the large sheets for the ceiling, its a simple rectangle. I'll pick up all the materials. For the divider strips, is there a term for what to look out for, or any type of thin wooden strapping should suffice?
I tried to find one a couple of months ago, they are pretty busy in these parts I didn't find one at the time. It makes sense to get someone certified, not any Joe Blow who might hang it in place with spiral nails and staples....it will end up falling down LOL
I'll find a certified drywall guy, and then offer a cash job. Those guys can hang an entire room like this in about an hour or two I seen them work, talk about fast. Roughly 3-4 of the large sheets for the ceiling, its a simple rectangle. I'll pick up all the materials. For the divider strips, is there a term for what to look out for, or any type of thin wooden strapping should suffice?
I tried to find one a couple of months ago, they are pretty busy in these parts I didn't find one at the time. It makes sense to get someone certified, not any Joe Blow who might hang it in place with spiral nails and staples....it will end up falling down LOL
Of all construction tasks soundproofing is the one that most of all epitomizes the dictum "attention to detail". If every detail is not done rigorously you'll have wasted your effort.
Using resilient channels is going to be much better than 1/4" wood spacers. And they have to be installed properly to achieve the de-coupling.
Just saying.
Using resilient channels is going to be much better than 1/4" wood spacers. And they have to be installed properly to achieve the de-coupling.
Just saying.
Resonances in dry walls can be reduced with (dry) sand in CD paper packaging.
I seal them with wood glue, make a small opening and fill it with dry sand and close it with glue.
Then you can glue it inside of loudspeaker enclosures or walls which shall resonate less after this treatment.
Classic is Hawaphon from Korff. This is steel in plastic against resonances.
Korff website with acoustical data and measurements
https://www.korff.ch/produkte/hawaphon/
I seal them with wood glue, make a small opening and fill it with dry sand and close it with glue.
Then you can glue it inside of loudspeaker enclosures or walls which shall resonate less after this treatment.
Classic is Hawaphon from Korff. This is steel in plastic against resonances.
Korff website with acoustical data and measurements
https://www.korff.ch/produkte/hawaphon/
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