A few years I build a pair of sealed 2 ways with an old pair old Seas 25f-ew 10" woofers and a Dynavox 3" Full range (in its own dagger style enclosure), using a simple 1st order crossover around the 4-500khz mark. About 30ltrs. Heavily stuffed and braced. Very happy with it.
Got another pair of the Seas woofers for super cheap. My Amp is 2.1 and I would like to use extra channel to lower the bass output.
Should a. I be using a separate box as a subwoofer? b. Use another enclosure to turn my current speaker into an improvised double chamber enclosure (raising the overall volume)? Do I even need another woofer to lower the bass output? Would just increasing the overall enclosure volume do the same job as adding another pair of drivers? Reckon I could get away with an additional box of about 40ltrs. Would porting as a reflex help at all? I'm ok with eq.
I'm imagining using a large diameter tube to create the double enclosure and the current speakers would sit on the top (also acting as a stand).
I have hornresp to model this, just looking for tips.
Got another pair of the Seas woofers for super cheap. My Amp is 2.1 and I would like to use extra channel to lower the bass output.
Should a. I be using a separate box as a subwoofer? b. Use another enclosure to turn my current speaker into an improvised double chamber enclosure (raising the overall volume)? Do I even need another woofer to lower the bass output? Would just increasing the overall enclosure volume do the same job as adding another pair of drivers? Reckon I could get away with an additional box of about 40ltrs. Would porting as a reflex help at all? I'm ok with eq.
I'm imagining using a large diameter tube to create the double enclosure and the current speakers would sit on the top (also acting as a stand).
I have hornresp to model this, just looking for tips.
how about an mtm array of your current speakers? having two woofers in an mtm array may even out the floor bounce frequency dip i would guess
Cost is an issue; hence the question. I believe these drivers can go quite low with the right volume (70ltrs +) fs is 26hz. The size of the current box cannot take another 10" driver, but the add-on box could just as easily make up an MTM arrangement.
To refine my question, would increasing the overall volume with a secondary enclosure, ported together give me the extended low end I'm after? Double-chamber.
To refine my question, would increasing the overall volume with a secondary enclosure, ported together give me the extended low end I'm after? Double-chamber.
Adding another woofer the same will give more bass, not lower response.
dave
dave
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Adding another woofer the same will give more bass, not lower response.
...would increasing the overall volume with a secondary enclosure, ported together give me the extended low end I'm after? One driver.
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With the right box 1 or 2 woofers have twhe same extention potential. You will get +3dB in efficiency, 0 or +6 dB in sensitivity depending on how you wire them.
The volume of the box(es) for 2 woofers ill be twice the volume of that for a single one.
dave
The volume of the box(es) for 2 woofers ill be twice the volume of that for a single one.
dave
With linear response up to 2500 Hz and smooth off-axis perfomance, 25F-EW is a great midwoofer. However, Xmax of +-4 mm limits its subwoofing utility.
Working with what you have at hand, I suggest building two bandpass subs. BP will provide lower extension than main sealed boxes; furthermore, BP improves efficiency, somewhat circumventing low Xmax limitation, and having four LF sources allows for better speaker-room coupling, like a form of multi-sub array.
Working with what you have at hand, I suggest building two bandpass subs. BP will provide lower extension than main sealed boxes; furthermore, BP improves efficiency, somewhat circumventing low Xmax limitation, and having four LF sources allows for better speaker-room coupling, like a form of multi-sub array.
Im running a 2.1 system
The " sub" is not really considered a sub, just a decent woofer.
I dont wanna, or cant corner load my main speakers.
But the single woofer is corner loaded facing straight up.
with a low crossover point.
If I move it out of the corner the difference is rather notable.
Corner loaded woofer is impressive for the overall simplicity
The " sub" is not really considered a sub, just a decent woofer.
I dont wanna, or cant corner load my main speakers.
But the single woofer is corner loaded facing straight up.
with a low crossover point.
If I move it out of the corner the difference is rather notable.
Corner loaded woofer is impressive for the overall simplicity
Corner loading bass would be possible in my room. Band pass subs. I will look into a combination. Massive db not an issue in my room, so excursion should not be too much of an issue on drivers that cost me £10 each.
Part of the appeal of DIY for me is making something work from materials at hand. I've got these drivers here; what can I make?
Not really DIY if I drop £500 on a sub driver. That just seems too easy!
Part of the appeal of DIY for me is making something work from materials at hand. I've got these drivers here; what can I make?
Not really DIY if I drop £500 on a sub driver. That just seems too easy!
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