Frankenstein-ing a commercial sub

[Subuckethead]

I could fit the unltimax 8" after I gut out the T3. The dimensions are right, even after bracing and lining it.
How would it cause the stock PR to behave? **** poor I imagine. I think it might be better to change it or at least cover the hole. https://www.parts-express.com/Dayto...-Subwoofer-2-Ohms-Per-Coil-295-508?quantity=1

Does an f3 of 43hz sound right in such a small sealed cube, of 0.8 CF in the PE site. When I measured I think it was 10" , no more than 11" cubed.

It sounds VVG as it is. But what fun is that? I can always turn it around later anyhow. The 8" underneath looks the part and sounds, but its pretty poor job with too much power (in other words not a lot).

 

[GM]

Define 'poor' since vent tuning has nothing to do with driver specs, only changes the driver's response out to its Fhm.

If you're referring to its higher power performance, then it ideally needs a PR's (Sd) = 1.75 - 2x driver (Sd) or dual same size driver (Sd) PRs.

 

[Subuckethead]

The stock subwoofer runs out of steam and bottoms out with not being pushed very hard. It looks decent until I removed it and had a look at the woofer itself, it has weak stamped steel, small magnet.

So the PR wouldn't suffer adverse effects with using a much heavier subwoofer, and still do its job correctly? I think that's everything I needed.

 

[Subuckethead]

this Rel is out of balance with others. Each of four Crown channels in stereo sends 350@4 ohms. Its seriously under powered https://www.avshop.ca/sound-amp-pa-...2a4c71Ab4ozCogDG5ECXRYhZJSk6FFKgaAtJUEALw_wcB

I keep reading there are positives mis matching sub sizes, I have mostly tried similar sizes. I am changing up a little by going ahead with dual 8" & dual 10"s each in there own sealed box. Without passive radiators. I figured since that one exists and works well I'll leave it to do its thing.

They do look nice on the outside. This one is mint. A good candidate to Frankenstien. I often try subs in several boxes for no other reason than to gain personal insight on them, it entertains me. It might or might not stay that way it depends how it behaves first and foremost. The passive radiator fires forward, the voice coil is bottom. I'm pretty sure the ultimax will annihilate the stock part. As it were I'm more curious about how the PR will respond with the much heavier subwoofer.


I also have some 3/8" thread I intend to run from one side to the opposite for a simple effective brace. The inside is totally naked, Rel cut or more politely overlooked these important points and still got them to sound good. I have some Dynamat and rockwool. Every sub gets the workover. Any potential looking weak links are dealt with.

This is the actual box.