Hi, not sure if this is a good spot for my question...
But can someone please point me in the right direction.
I have an SPS By Audiovox head unit model (FO-DLX) it only has the 4 positive speaker outputs from the head unit to a factory amp. My question is - Can I, or what would be the proper way to run this HU to a new aftermarket amp as far as the audio ground side is concerned? I found a manual for an older audiovox axt-500 amp that says you don't need to run speaker (neg) when using high level inputs. Is this still a thing today?
Or can I piggy back off the factory amp outputs with some type of LOC or similar device?
I'd really like to keep the factory 2 knob radio and not cut the dash for something that doesn't look good in the interior and didn't want to buy a new retro HU.
Thanks
Dillon
But can someone please point me in the right direction.
I have an SPS By Audiovox head unit model (FO-DLX) it only has the 4 positive speaker outputs from the head unit to a factory amp. My question is - Can I, or what would be the proper way to run this HU to a new aftermarket amp as far as the audio ground side is concerned? I found a manual for an older audiovox axt-500 amp that says you don't need to run speaker (neg) when using high level inputs. Is this still a thing today?
Or can I piggy back off the factory amp outputs with some type of LOC or similar device?
I'd really like to keep the factory 2 knob radio and not cut the dash for something that doesn't look good in the interior and didn't want to buy a new retro HU.
Thanks
Dillon
The speakers have the normal 2 connections. + and - that I am familiar with, and they come from the factory amp. I have the ALLDATA wiring print that I can post shortly.
The easiest would be to use a good quality LOC (one with transformers) to use the speaker level output of the head unit to drive the RCA inputs of a standard amplifier.
I understand that part. But the head unit doesn't have the negative side for each speaker channel. So what do I do with the left over negative speaker input wires of the LOC, do the just get connected to the head unit case ground? Here is a few pictures for clarity regarding what I have. The Head unit has 3 other wires not pictured for Bat+ GND and Illum.
Dillon
Dillon
Attachments
One thing I'd like to note. Is there are NO BLACK/WHITE wires on the headunit like the diagram shows. I'm finding out as im reading this was a dealer install radio and not from the factory. However everything else is accurate.
If you connected the wires going to those speakers, as they are connected to the speakers, why would you have any left-over wires on the LOC?
I would have "left over" wires on the input side of the LOC if i eliminated the factory amp. The negative side of the speaker wire is only between the factory amp and speaker... That is the whole basis of my question. I made a quick drawing of my idea or thought with the factory amp removed, is it a possibility?
Attachments
Do you have a 4-ch LOC?
The diagram you have doesn't show the LOC connected to the wires that are connected to the speakers, as they are connected to the speakers.
The diagram you have doesn't show the LOC connected to the wires that are connected to the speakers, as they are connected to the speakers.
I sourced one and should have it today or tomorrow.
The only way I could do what you are suggesting is to leave the factory amp in place and working. Is that what your suggesting will work.
Radio to factory amp to LOC to new amp to speakers?
The only way I could do what you are suggesting is to leave the factory amp in place and working. Is that what your suggesting will work.
Radio to factory amp to LOC to new amp to speakers?
It appears that the head unit has a common ground for the speakers. That would mean that the four negative input wires to the LOC would go to the speaker ground.
Before you make this connection, confirm that all speaker wires are at 0v DC with the head unit on and that the negative speaker wire reads 0 ohms to ground (head unit off).
Before you make this connection, confirm that all speaker wires are at 0v DC with the head unit on and that the negative speaker wire reads 0 ohms to ground (head unit off).
You can "piggy back"as you say the LOC to provide INPUT signal for your aftermarket amplifier and retain the stock amplifier system as is. REMEMBER you will also need a switched REMOTE wire for the aftermarket amp and take note, the RADIO 12 volt Electric ANTENNA trigger wire in many OLDER stereos will DEACTIVATE upon CASSETTE use. Antenna goes down when you are using the TAPE player section. How it WAS... still is. As the LOC goes you are just tapping into the speaker + for signal L&R... and ground for the negatives on the LOC BUT check to see if grounding HELPS or HURTS things. Because your radio is still attached to the stock amp it will send a signal + through the LOC likely regardless of them negatives being hooked up. In fact they can sometimes add ENGINE NOISE where there was none. EXPERIMENT with them.... Have fun.... Such can be the "Piggy Back" mentality of Autosound.... WHATEVER WORKS.... works. Good Luck with your experiment and FUSE at the BATTERY for your after market amp.... always. NJOY/BDBD/2023.