I did this planset in 2018 and very few know about them so i thot i should post the plans.
Not really subWoofers, but this is the best section to put them in.
This woofer is really cheap and a really decent performer, but difficult to get outside North America. If you need some bass help, in something small that sounds good this may be something of interest.
http://www.planet10-hifi.com/downloads/SF-W14-woofers-120218.pdf
This is the same woofer we use in Tysen V2.
dave
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Not really subWoofers, but this is the best section to put them in.
This woofer is really cheap and a really decent performer, but difficult to get outside North America. If you need some bass help, in something small that sounds good this may be something of interest.
http://www.planet10-hifi.com/downloads/SF-W14-woofers-120218.pdf
This is the same woofer we use in Tysen V2.
dave
.
Thanks for sharing Dave. I have 2 queries - (1) Can we see any more details like F3, max power etc., for the various designs? and (2) Do you have any designs using Silver Flute W17RC38-04 6.5" drivers? I use these. They are more efficient and sound amazing.
I was not overly impressed with the sims i got for the larger ones, so never invesigated them. And i’d rather use 2 x W14 than a single W17.
F3 is a meaningless number to humans, XOIng it the active XO will appreciate knowing F3.
Scott’s ML-TL is something like 35 Hz in room, estimate of the reflexes is low 40s, smaller ones not quite as much.
Max power, i don’t care. Mostly meaningless.
dave
F3 is a meaningless number to humans, XOIng it the active XO will appreciate knowing F3.
Scott’s ML-TL is something like 35 Hz in room, estimate of the reflexes is low 40s, smaller ones not quite as much.
Max power, i don’t care. Mostly meaningless.
dave
I used to use the W17s in my car audio system. Measured t/s parameters were Ok, but don't really match the published specs. The older drivers ended up with a higher Fs, maybe a heat-related issue.
