Hello,
While replacing one of the caps on my JL 500/1, I messed up and lifted the pad on the top of the board. The pad on the bottom is fine.
I hope the top pad was just there for structural integrity and using the bottom pad alone will be suffice.
Is this an issue and if so... how would I go about fixing it properly?
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Top
Bottom
While replacing one of the caps on my JL 500/1, I messed up and lifted the pad on the top of the board. The pad on the bottom is fine.
I hope the top pad was just there for structural integrity and using the bottom pad alone will be suffice.
Is this an issue and if so... how would I go about fixing it properly?
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Top
Bottom
The one with the arrow may be OK. Did any copper pull out of the hole on the legs of the capacitors?
What was wrong with the original caps? They rarely (VERY RARELY) fail in the JL amps?
What was wrong with the original caps? They rarely (VERY RARELY) fail in the JL amps?
I just went back to look at the cap and yes... it appears that the copper pulled out of both legs.
Its my fault for rushing, I'm so mad at myself right now!
Am I screwed?
I picked up the amp for fairly cheap as it was untested. All 4 caps were bulging and considering the age of the amp and not knowing its history, I figured I would replace them.
Its my fault for rushing, I'm so mad at myself right now!
Am I screwed?
I picked up the amp for fairly cheap as it was untested. All 4 caps were bulging and considering the age of the amp and not knowing its history, I figured I would replace them.
It was likely only the plastic top that was bulging. I've repaired hundreds of JL amps and have only replaced 2 rail caps. It would have been only one but they were in series (LJ1000/1)
I don't know how bad this is going to be. Do you have an oscilloscope?
Shine a light from the back of the board and look into the vias (holes for cap terminals). The holes should be solder-colored all of the way through. How much of that plating is damaged?
For which holes?
I don't know how bad this is going to be. Do you have an oscilloscope?
Shine a light from the back of the board and look into the vias (holes for cap terminals). The holes should be solder-colored all of the way through. How much of that plating is damaged?
For which holes?
Yes the plastic tops were bulging... thought I was doing the right thing by replacing them, now I've gone and made things worse.
I do have an oscilloscope.
I don't have access to the board right now because I'm not home but will shine a light through and report back in the morning.
In the meantime, I'm almost positive I ripped the copper from both the positive and negative holes on just that one cap because it's still on the legs.
I was struggling with my iron and pulled too hard and didnt even realize just how bad I messed up until you said something about the copper pulling out. The other 3 came out without issue but I will double check asap.
I really appreciate your help.
I do have an oscilloscope.
I don't have access to the board right now because I'm not home but will shine a light through and report back in the morning.
In the meantime, I'm almost positive I ripped the copper from both the positive and negative holes on just that one cap because it's still on the legs.
I was struggling with my iron and pulled too hard and didnt even realize just how bad I messed up until you said something about the copper pulling out. The other 3 came out without issue but I will double check asap.
I really appreciate your help.
For the terminal that solders on top (to the large copper area), scrape the solder mask off and tin that area.
You will use a 20g wire or several strands of wire and twist them together. Solder the wire to the tinned area, being careful not to allow it to lay where it will contact the capacitor's metal can or the other terminal. Run the wire through the hole with the pulled via, wrap the wire around the capacitor's terminal and solder.
It's VERY important that the wire not short to the other terminal or the metal can.
You may want to add a bit of adhesive like GOOP or E6000 to the base of the capacitor to prevent it from trying to pull out.
As a side note, this has happened MANY times when people replaced capacitors. Many don't even realize that they did the damage.
You will use a 20g wire or several strands of wire and twist them together. Solder the wire to the tinned area, being careful not to allow it to lay where it will contact the capacitor's metal can or the other terminal. Run the wire through the hole with the pulled via, wrap the wire around the capacitor's terminal and solder.
It's VERY important that the wire not short to the other terminal or the metal can.
You may want to add a bit of adhesive like GOOP or E6000 to the base of the capacitor to prevent it from trying to pull out.
As a side note, this has happened MANY times when people replaced capacitors. Many don't even realize that they did the damage.
Ok so I shined the light through vias and for those two, all I see is the board. The vias for the other 3 caps look fine.
I scraped away a tiny section of solder mask where you suggested. The problem is, there is continuity between the positive pad and the area I scraped the solder mask off of. Apologies if I misunderstood where you meant for me to scrape.
I scraped away a tiny section of solder mask where you suggested. The problem is, there is continuity between the positive pad and the area I scraped the solder mask off of. Apologies if I misunderstood where you meant for me to scrape.
If that's the one that's damaged, you don't need to do anything. Both terminals solder on the bottom. The little holes all around it are plated vias that conduct from one side to the other.
So even though I messed up and ripped both the vias out (neg and positive) for that one cap, it won't cause any issues?
That's a relief! Now I just need to cover the area I scraped the mask off. I was thinking some epoxy, what would you suggest?
I greatly appreciate you taking the time to help. Thank you!
I greatly appreciate you taking the time to help. Thank you!
Unless some part of the other cap terminal is going to make contact (VERY unlikely), you don't need to do anything.