Turntable motor replacement

Hi,

I'm considering buying a DIY belt-drive turntable. The designer is no longer active and the turntable has a DC motor of some sort rotating a pulley inside a small box. I'm wondering how much of a problem I will have fixing or replacing the motor in the case it starts to have problems. Is there availability of motors that will allow me to fit a similar unit or can it be a proprietary unit that I will not be able to replace afterwards? I would appreciate your thoughts!
 
Buy an AC motor that is still in production, they tend to be more reliable than DC motors. No carbon brushes for one thing...

And there are many threads here about DIY turntables.
The designer ones are very unusual at times, not for new persons in this field, in my opinion.

As for motors...Papst, Baumuller, Marathon, and some other makes may have them in ready stock, and current production.
Read up, decide the rpm you need, go from there.

The usual formula for RPM = 120f/p (mains frequency divided by number of poles) can be bypassed by a variable frequency drive, so look for motors that run about 750 or even 500 rpm.
I think table and ceiling fans run about 330, those might be useful...
Fine speed adjustment can be done by a drive, if needed.

No ties to any names mentioned here.

As for DC motors, ask the seller what type he has used, and see if spares are available, go from there.
As such they are common...see how many are used in cars, for example.
 
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Thanks @NareshBrd that is really useful. I don’t have the option of identifying the motor at this stage so I’m taking my chances. In general are there options in terms of fitting similar motors or is it that for a specific turntable you need to fit the exact same one (I’m thinking that it’s pretty basic what a motor does and alternatives could be used as well).
 
Replacing a TT motor is not that strait forward if you don't get the same motor, you have to pay attention to the motor rpm, motor pulley and if the belt goes on the platter rim or inside of it (platter rim diameter)
Depending on the TT it's probably not worth the hassle specially if it is a cheap Japanese one
 
As above:

'I'm considering buying a DIY belt-drive turntable'

In a single word: don't.

Unless you need to, having many records, there is no need to buy one.
And plenty of known brand units would show up on sale on line or in various physical markets, like car boot sales, flea markets, repair shops and so on.

Those are documented, and use parts which are still available at times. Easier than a DIY unit to service / repair should the need arise.
 
In my opinion, the new cheap Thorens units are made by Dual in Eastern Europe, and run on a wall wart SMPS, nothing special.

You are better off getting a top end Japanese, Philips, Grundig or other table from the LP era.
If you appreciate design, and elegant engineering, you will realize that the Japanese units were brilliant in design and performance.

DIY tables may be made by individuals with parts at hand, so totally non standard...the platter, bearing, plinth, tone arm, cartridge and so on are sometimes made from salvaged parts.
Unless you like to do repairs, stay away.

There have been posts here about floppy drive motors being used to drive tables, and somebody even put a fish tank heater to control the granite base temperature.
Granite has a really low coefficient of thermal expansion, it was a wasted effort, but it satisfied some deep itch in his mind.

To each his own...
 
Hi Naresh,

(There have been posts here about floppy drive motors being used to drive tables, and somebody even put a fish tank heater to control the granite base temperature.
Granite has a really low coefficient of thermal expansion, it was a wasted effort, but it satisfied some deep itch in his mind)



Regarding the Floppy Drive , but in my case was a 5 inch motor ( the big flexible plastic floppy with bigger brushless motor), I am one of those. I am still using it after 15 years of trouble free with my DIY TT and it drives well a 5 Kg platter with pulley and 3 belts. I play only LPs at 33,33 Rpm.

Regarding my attempt to make a DIY fly wheel two motor drive unit that failed, but for the reason that the fly wheel was not lathed with the required precision as supposed to be and gave vibration to the system while playing records.
The heating bearing of the fly wheel after installing proper adjustable temp controller and proper tune up was working very well.
Therefore I failed because the mechanical vibration given by the 5 Kg fly wheel.
Regarding the torque of the two motor and accuracy of the speed was not an issue.
Therefore my bearing heating system directly fitted on the fly wheel bearing worked well.

Just for clarification.

Best rgds

Adelmo