I am designing a two way bookshelf speaker with quality drivers and want to do my best to do them justice.
Woofers benefit from highly braced, inert cabinets to raise the frequency of the cabinet wall resonances above their operational range. The reverse is true for tweeters; a sloppier cabinet wall will resonate below the frequency range of a tweeter producing good results.
Do you think a think a thin layer of sorbothane under the tweeter flange would help solve the issue the issue of mounting a tweeter into a very braced/inert cabinet that may have higher frequency wall resonances? If so what duro would be ideal?
Woofers benefit from highly braced, inert cabinets to raise the frequency of the cabinet wall resonances above their operational range. The reverse is true for tweeters; a sloppier cabinet wall will resonate below the frequency range of a tweeter producing good results.
Do you think a think a thin layer of sorbothane under the tweeter flange would help solve the issue the issue of mounting a tweeter into a very braced/inert cabinet that may have higher frequency wall resonances? If so what duro would be ideal?
Decoupling of a tweeter seems to be achieved by means of a foam ring which is thick enough so that a slight give can be felt when pressing on the tweeter surround.
Q Acoustics employs such decoupled tweeters.
If you can achieve the required amount of give using Sorbothane then fine, but I have no experience of using the substance in this context.
Q Acoustics employs such decoupled tweeters.
If you can achieve the required amount of give using Sorbothane then fine, but I have no experience of using the substance in this context.
Hmm, the only way to truly decouple is to use something that requires no mounting hardware, so seems reasonable to me that nothing 'thin' will work unless maybe an isolating caulk/sealer designed for this type app.
Is the tweeter open-backed? What is the purpose of the box? To act as a smooth continuation of a wave-guide all the way to 180 degrees?
Decoupling the tweeter could be done mounting it on a separate frame, perhaps some kind of clamp holding the magnet so that the waveguide and magnet are kept in position independently. I never liked the idea of soft foam gaskets that were then bolted down anyway (shaking my head... Even without bolts and just gluing the foam this is just asking for distortion.) But then you have a 2-part system that needs an additional gasket for air-tightness, and maintenance to keep them aligned if the speakers are moved around.
Decoupling the tweeter could be done mounting it on a separate frame, perhaps some kind of clamp holding the magnet so that the waveguide and magnet are kept in position independently. I never liked the idea of soft foam gaskets that were then bolted down anyway (shaking my head... Even without bolts and just gluing the foam this is just asking for distortion.) But then you have a 2-part system that needs an additional gasket for air-tightness, and maintenance to keep them aligned if the speakers are moved around.
I used Well-nut, or Flex-loc, to decouple my tweeter in the Auri speaker.
Thanks for the input guys, some good thoughts and ideas for decoupling. A separate frame complicates the build quite a bit though, I was hoping to avoid that and find a more simple solution. I’ve never aesthetically liked tweeters sitting above the main box like a B&W either. I imagine it would complicate the baffle step compensation too with a baffle below but not above. Tweeter is not open backed, I’m using is a ScanSpeak D3004/66200.