Good day,
sorry if it's been already discussed but it took two years to find out what kind of tube could replace my 6n1-j on my Chinese affordable amp
The answer is:
ECC85
Confirmed by the supplier and tested right now on my amp with a pair of 6L6 and 5U4 rectifier
I guess this amp is sort of a clone of Elekit
So I guess next time I won't search all the Internet to find my answer. Just remember that I put a post here a message
Here the answer for Yulu amp gen1:
hello dear customer
wish you have a nice day
Rectifier 5Z2P: 5AR4, 5Z3P, 5U4, 5R4
Front stage push tube 6N1J: former Soviet Union 6H1N, European and American ECC85
Power tube EL34: 6P3P, 6L6, KT66, KT88
The above are replaceable tubes
Enjoy!
sorry if it's been already discussed but it took two years to find out what kind of tube could replace my 6n1-j on my Chinese affordable amp
The answer is:
ECC85
Confirmed by the supplier and tested right now on my amp with a pair of 6L6 and 5U4 rectifier
I guess this amp is sort of a clone of Elekit
So I guess next time I won't search all the Internet to find my answer. Just remember that I put a post here a message
Here the answer for Yulu amp gen1:
hello dear customer
wish you have a nice day
Rectifier 5Z2P: 5AR4, 5Z3P, 5U4, 5R4
Front stage push tube 6N1J: former Soviet Union 6H1N, European and American ECC85
Power tube EL34: 6P3P, 6L6, KT66, KT88
The above are replaceable tubes
Enjoy!
If you use an EL34, or if you use a 6CA7 . . .
Be sure to put a jumper wire from Pin 1 to Pin 8.
When you substitute tubes, be sure to pay attention to the plate voltages, plate current, plate dissipation, and g1 grid resistor, versus the tube specifications.
You may need to adjust the output tube bias.
Do not forget the KT77, very similar to the EL34 and 6CA7, but does not have to have the Pin 1 to Pin 8 jumper.
Be sure the amplifier's transformer's has enough filament current capability, or there could be smoke.
6L6 types are 0.9A filaments.
Other tubes in your list have 1.3A, 1.5A, and 1.6A
0.9A x 2 = 1.8A
1.6A x 2 = 3.2A, lots more filament current
Do not forget the input tube filament current too.
Plug and Play; not Plug and Pray.
Be sure to put a jumper wire from Pin 1 to Pin 8.
When you substitute tubes, be sure to pay attention to the plate voltages, plate current, plate dissipation, and g1 grid resistor, versus the tube specifications.
You may need to adjust the output tube bias.
Do not forget the KT77, very similar to the EL34 and 6CA7, but does not have to have the Pin 1 to Pin 8 jumper.
Be sure the amplifier's transformer's has enough filament current capability, or there could be smoke.
6L6 types are 0.9A filaments.
Other tubes in your list have 1.3A, 1.5A, and 1.6A
0.9A x 2 = 1.8A
1.6A x 2 = 3.2A, lots more filament current
Do not forget the input tube filament current too.
Plug and Play; not Plug and Pray.
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Russian NOS 6N1P EB or not EB are very nice too. It appears that the plate characteristics are on the weird side in that a relatively large anode current is required to hit the linear region, but it is then severely limited all the way back to the non-linear region by the maximum anode disspiation limitation. I am running mine at only 155V/6mA and it sounds great nevertheless.
Thanks, even if it's sold with EL34 by manufacturer?If you use an EL34, or if you use a 6CA7 . . .
Be sure to put a jumper wire from Pin 1 to Pin 8.
When you substitute tubes, be sure to pay attention to the plate voltages, plate current, plate dissipation, and g1 grid resistor, versus the tube specifications.
You may need to adjust the output tube bias.
Do not forget the KT77, very similar to the EL34 and 6CA7, but does not have to have the Pin 1 to Pin 8 jumper.
Be sure the amplifier's transformer's has enough filament current capability, or there could be smoke.
6L6 types are 0.9A filaments.
Other tubes in your list have 1.3A, 1.5A, and 1.6A
0.9A x 2 = 1.8A
1.6A x 2 = 3.2A, lots more filament current
Do not forget the input tube filament current too.
Plug and Play; not Plug and Pray.
To my project, first i need to replace the volume knob, it is typical volume that is to low or to loud and when very low unbalance and more on one side
Except that, this amp use lamp very conservatively, that even after 2 years of intensive listening powertube test as new!
So room for improvement, certainly!
Enjoy &
Regars
Ps, For 400$CAD or less very affordable for beginner.
Pps, your eight 6L6 cool down the amp
Tpjrs,
If it came with EL34 tubes, it already has a connection from pin 1 to Pin 8. If there is no connection there, they do not know what they are doing.
Caution:
Some KT88 tubes tie pin 1 to the metal shield of the KT88 (the tube comes from the manufacture that way).
So, if the amplifier circuit has cathode self bias and is wired for an EL34 / 6CA7, pin 1 will be at pin 8 cathode volts.
If you put a KT88 that does tie pin 1 to the KT88 shield, the shield will be elevated to the same voltage as the cathode.
If it came with EL34 tubes, it already has a connection from pin 1 to Pin 8. If there is no connection there, they do not know what they are doing.
Caution:
Some KT88 tubes tie pin 1 to the metal shield of the KT88 (the tube comes from the manufacture that way).
So, if the amplifier circuit has cathode self bias and is wired for an EL34 / 6CA7, pin 1 will be at pin 8 cathode volts.
If you put a KT88 that does tie pin 1 to the KT88 shield, the shield will be elevated to the same voltage as the cathode.
The amp autobias, any brand of KT88 that you help identify or trick to check for?
Tubestores preferred series? Example?
Tubestores preferred series? Example?
JJ KT88 tubes do not connect the metal shield to pin 1.
I do not know about other recently produced KT88 tubes.
I believe a lot of old tubes do connect the metal shield to pin 1.
Always use an Ohmmeter to check if the metal shield is connected to pin 1 (zero Ohms is connected, open circuit is not connected).
I do not know about other recently produced KT88 tubes.
I believe a lot of old tubes do connect the metal shield to pin 1.
Always use an Ohmmeter to check if the metal shield is connected to pin 1 (zero Ohms is connected, open circuit is not connected).
I confirm no problemo with KT88 prefered tube from tubestores. In fact, beautiful base and a warmer sound! Thanks guys for allinfos you provided
This a very simple affordable amp with lots of tweak, for 300$ and high effency speaker (95db) miracle happen!
This a very simple affordable amp with lots of tweak, for 300$ and high effency speaker (95db) miracle happen!
6N1P/6H1P is basically a 6V 12AU7 with higher heater currents ... albeit Soviet 6N1s (written as 6H1P because H cyrillic = N) are actually more linear. IMO anyway.
For reference : https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/6N1P
ECC85 has higher u and transconductance so not exactly interchangable
For reference : https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/6N1P
ECC85 has higher u and transconductance so not exactly interchangable
Usually when it comes to Chinese amplifier "manufacturer recommendations" their understanding of what is a good replacement is pretty flawed to say the least
Nah - Tetrode's are AWESOME!If you use an EL34, or if you use a 6CA7 . . .
Be sure to put a jumper wire from Pin 1 to Pin 8.
/sarcasm
kodabmx,
In reply to my comment:
"If you use an EL34, or if you use a 6CA7 . . .
Be sure to put a jumper wire from Pin 1 to Pin 8."
You said:
"Tetrodes are AWESOME!
. . . That was a joke I guess.
What tube type are we talking about?
4-65A?
Or an EL34 with a floating Suppressor Grid?
We do have Newbies reading these posts.
In reply to my comment:
"If you use an EL34, or if you use a 6CA7 . . .
Be sure to put a jumper wire from Pin 1 to Pin 8."
You said:
"Tetrodes are AWESOME!
. . . That was a joke I guess.
What tube type are we talking about?
4-65A?
Or an EL34 with a floating Suppressor Grid?
We do have Newbies reading these posts.
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