I bought this Kenwood KD1600 TT, appeared new in original packing. Turns out it was used and the belt had long disintegrated. So I try the belt from my Phillips TT. Using a strobe, motor 1800 RPM syncs to line and when I put the Phillips belt on, platter spins steady in sync to line, using my Roberts strobe disc.
So I buy "the right belt" off an ebay seller, which is claimed to cover a range of these Kenwood models. Bada-bing, right? The belt is pretty much the same length as the Phillips belt, but only 1/2 the width if that. Platter doesnt run to speed.
There's no speed adjust on this particular unit. The motor can take quite a load from my finger, before is loses sync to line. The platter spins quite freely. The "pulley" post can move up/down some on the motor shaft, but trying different positions gives the same result. Putting it back pushed all the way onto the shaft and using the Phillips belt again, the platter runs at speed. Unfortunately the Phillips belt width scrapes on the speed changer boss end, so it's a smidge too wide.
Question #1, is it possible to fix? It's impractical to go through ordering a myriad of belts until I find just the right one. Cost prohibitive.
Question #2, is it fair to return the belt to the seller, claiming with it the TT doesnt run at speed, while with one I happened to have lying around it does?
I thought it would be easy. Instead, the conglomeration of simple mechanical components behaves like it's haunted.
So I buy "the right belt" off an ebay seller, which is claimed to cover a range of these Kenwood models. Bada-bing, right? The belt is pretty much the same length as the Phillips belt, but only 1/2 the width if that. Platter doesnt run to speed.
There's no speed adjust on this particular unit. The motor can take quite a load from my finger, before is loses sync to line. The platter spins quite freely. The "pulley" post can move up/down some on the motor shaft, but trying different positions gives the same result. Putting it back pushed all the way onto the shaft and using the Phillips belt again, the platter runs at speed. Unfortunately the Phillips belt width scrapes on the speed changer boss end, so it's a smidge too wide.
Question #1, is it possible to fix? It's impractical to go through ordering a myriad of belts until I find just the right one. Cost prohibitive.
Question #2, is it fair to return the belt to the seller, claiming with it the TT doesnt run at speed, while with one I happened to have lying around it does?
I thought it would be easy. Instead, the conglomeration of simple mechanical components behaves like it's haunted.
Is the belt 1/2 the thickness of your Phillips belt, or the same thickness? If the thickness is different, that would explain the speed difference.
jeff
jeff
Thanks, Jeff
According to my caliper, the Phillips belt is 1mm thick, the replacement belt off ebay is 0.5mm - as best I can measure, that is. The caliper is graduated in 1mm increments.
According to my caliper, the Phillips belt is 1mm thick, the replacement belt off ebay is 0.5mm - as best I can measure, that is. The caliper is graduated in 1mm increments.
I mentioned my predicament to the seller. Said would give me a refund. Also made it clear not interested in helping me find a solution when I suggested an exchange, given the "same belts they used in the shop for 25 years" dont work on this TT. What to do; maybe if I order a belt for a Phillips 222 from somewhere, I'll get a 1mm thick one?
Just get another Philips 222 belt. Do you know what the length is? I'll have a look around the web.
It's a GA-222 right? https://www.thakker.eu/en/belts/turntables/philips-ga-222-original-thakker-belt/a-3448/
jeff
It's a GA-222 right? https://www.thakker.eu/en/belts/turntables/philips-ga-222-original-thakker-belt/a-3448/
jeff
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After painstakingly reducing the Phillips belt width by a couple mm and finding this table still runs slow, it's found a new home - in the garbage can. Note to self; NEVER buy a vintage TT without a speed adjustment present on the control panel. Perhaps I can recoup my initial investment by selling its Pickering P/AT-1 cartridge and the used dust cover / hinges. Not the outcome I was hoping for.
In fact, of 3 recent TTs I've messed with, that's 2 in a row 100% fail attempting to broker used vintage; FedEX cartwheeling one down some escapement so hard the base twisted against the dust cover shattering it from the stress on the hinges...or something shattered it inside my packaging. Full refund was the only practical solution.
I think I'm out -
In fact, of 3 recent TTs I've messed with, that's 2 in a row 100% fail attempting to broker used vintage; FedEX cartwheeling one down some escapement so hard the base twisted against the dust cover shattering it from the stress on the hinges...or something shattered it inside my packaging. Full refund was the only practical solution.
I think I'm out -
No Such Luck. The motor directly connected to the AC line. Its RPM was correct. The plan was to sell it, but I could not sell a TT that didnt even spin at the right speed.
I know its a year later, but I just saw this thread a moment ago. The KD-1600 has a synchronous motor. Its speed is determined by the frequency of the AC line. When new, the turntable came with two pulleys of slightly different diameters (and colors, one was slightly golden and the other “gray”), to be used in zones where the AC is 50 or 60 Hz. Of course, the motor and the platter have to be well lubricated as well. The problem I see here seems to be related to a mismatched pulley. I don’t believe the thickness of the belt has anything to do with it, although the size (length, diameter) should be important.
I have a KD-1600 MK II that I bought new in the 80s. It still works quite well with an Ortofon SuperOM 10 cartridge.
Regards,
HAJV
I have a KD-1600 MK II that I bought new in the 80s. It still works quite well with an Ortofon SuperOM 10 cartridge.
Regards,
HAJV