Or just get some high efficiency full range drivers.
People are always looking for more power, but the same result could be achieved just by getting more appropriate speakers
People are always looking for more power, but the same result could be achieved just by getting more appropriate speakers
Yes, it could be bridged. You’ll need some way to make a differential signal, be it an input transformer or a simple phase inverter, whch would be easy to make from an op amp. Power would be about double.
I agree with both Zen and Pico, more efficient speakers and/or a ‘real’ Firstwatt amp is the correct way forward. (And yes, the ACAmini sounds fantastic.)
I agree with both Zen and Pico, more efficient speakers and/or a ‘real’ Firstwatt amp is the correct way forward. (And yes, the ACAmini sounds fantastic.)
I've done it. I laid out my own board(s) and added a jumper selectable op-amp inverter to one channel. It works works great. I don't know about the power specs specifically but it should be somewhere on the order of 3x to 4x the standard version. 20 ish watts clean? But I'd calc the current IMHO. The newer less beefy PS that comes with the completion kit may not be quite enough for full bridged power. I used the higher current version that was in the original spec from Papa.
Alternatively build the full Monty ACA 2 which has all these features you want and even more.
No need to reinvent the wheel on the mini.
Maybe use the mini in your bedroom or office and and build an ACA 2 for the living area.
No need to reinvent the wheel on the mini.
Maybe use the mini in your bedroom or office and and build an ACA 2 for the living area.
Nah. The XS300 would rock the boat, but perhaps take some time to clone succesfully.
If ACA mini is 8w into 4Ω it will be 16w into 8Ω bridged. 10w into 16Ω. Lower impedance mot recommended (i guess, how is a stock one into 2Ω?)
dave
Something like this Nobsound Little Bear?
For my Haruna project I have an ACA Mini ready to build, but it occurred to me get another and bridge them, then to use the alternative deflector on the Haruna but leave it open at the back to put the amps there. Alternatively I could put them directly on the back of the speaker behind the throat (shortest possible speaker cable run), but I'd need to work out how to build it with the heatsinks (and maybe caps) flat rather than upright.
I'm planning to use a WiiM Pro as my source, which uses an app for volume control, so it would go WiiM Pro to Little Bear to monoblock ACA Minis to Haruna. Does this seem like it would work?
Has anyone bridged a Mini and actually measured the new output levels into 4- and 8-ohm dummy loads? Calculating the results is easy but not reliable because of current and impedance concerns. Please don't ask me to use more sensitive speakers. That's not my question. Thanks.
Thanks....I have an F5v2....Simply fantastic....I just like playing around with this stuff!
http://rvbprecision.com/stereo/nelson-pass-first-watt-f5-turbo-v2.html
R, I have a Pass XA-25, Pass A-40, Firstwatt F8, and two original AMP CAMPs here. I don't need another amplifier. I had a question about specs on bridged Mini's. I like to build stuff.