G'day Guys,
I need to replace a dual simmerstat on a Fisher and Paykel Stovetop.
That part is relatively simple.
The hard bit is that the faulty simmerstat has taken a wire with it.
As can be seen from the photos: The white wire is burnt out and will need to be replaced with the simmerstat.
However there are markings on any section of the white wire to speak of. No temp rating, gauge or voltage.
Voltage and temp rating aren't too hard - as high as possible something like 200 degree 600v would probably be ideal.
The wire gauge is what is stumping me.
Does anybody have any experience with such things that may offer a suggestion.
The simmerstat is a Robertshaw MPD-110 rated at 15A
I need to replace a dual simmerstat on a Fisher and Paykel Stovetop.
That part is relatively simple.
The hard bit is that the faulty simmerstat has taken a wire with it.
As can be seen from the photos: The white wire is burnt out and will need to be replaced with the simmerstat.
However there are markings on any section of the white wire to speak of. No temp rating, gauge or voltage.
Voltage and temp rating aren't too hard - as high as possible something like 200 degree 600v would probably be ideal.
The wire gauge is what is stumping me.
Does anybody have any experience with such things that may offer a suggestion.
The simmerstat is a Robertshaw MPD-110 rated at 15A
The red and black look suss to me too.
So I'd be carefully examining all of them.
Otherwise I'd measure the diameter and look around for high temp wire that is at least that size or bigger.
Never hurts to use bigger wire 🙂
They obviously carry a fair current or otherwise get hot, so you might have to be very careful with termination.
Solid crimping only ???
Maybe see if there's an appliance repairer near by as I'm sure they'd have suitable wire on a spool.
Or a dead unit at the dump you can scavenge from.
So I'd be carefully examining all of them.
Otherwise I'd measure the diameter and look around for high temp wire that is at least that size or bigger.
Never hurts to use bigger wire 🙂
They obviously carry a fair current or otherwise get hot, so you might have to be very careful with termination.
Solid crimping only ???
Maybe see if there's an appliance repairer near by as I'm sure they'd have suitable wire on a spool.
Or a dead unit at the dump you can scavenge from.
The non-White wires which are not burnt have numbers like 105 and 600. Maybe the white wire should too?
I have a link to a Silicone wire in party colors:
https://bntechgo.com/bntechgo-12-ga...-flexible-12-awg-stranded-tinned-copper-wire/
The folks on that forum did not like it for amplifiers; nobody said stove.
I have a link to a Silicone wire in party colors:
https://bntechgo.com/bntechgo-12-ga...-flexible-12-awg-stranded-tinned-copper-wire/
The folks on that forum did not like it for amplifiers; nobody said stove.
Are you sure it wasn’t the other way around? Perhaps a poor crimp job on the connector was what caused the overheating which damaged the rheostat. What happened to the wire looks to me EXACTLY what I saw in the breaker box at my house when the water heater failed. Insulation melted way up the wire, terminal on the breaker horribly oxidized. My guess is the screw was loose on the breaker. I cut the wire off a foot away, added a pigtail, and put in a new breaker. Not a bit of trouble since - connections look new 10 years later when I was back in the box adding a new circuit. With a lot of continuous amps, quality matters.
Try and use heater wire, mica insulated, fiberglass braided.
6 square mm, or 7/16 should be enough, how many watts did you say?
Use a crimping tool, and fiber sleeve.
Nitto, for one, makes insulating tape that will stand up to 400 Centigrade. Others may also be doing that.
6 square mm, or 7/16 should be enough, how many watts did you say?
Use a crimping tool, and fiber sleeve.
Nitto, for one, makes insulating tape that will stand up to 400 Centigrade. Others may also be doing that.
Good spotting on the red wire.
This is what I found.
Most disappointing is that I paid something like $250 for this to be done by a professional 2 years ago and this was the standard of their work.
This is what I found.
Most disappointing is that I paid something like $250 for this to be done by a professional 2 years ago and this was the standard of their work.
In this day and age.
If the work outlasts the warranty period, then they consider that a win.
For the rest of us, we black list these people and find moral conscientious repairers or do it ourselves.
If the work outlasts the warranty period, then they consider that a win.
For the rest of us, we black list these people and find moral conscientious repairers or do it ourselves.
Most of the wires I've seen on domestic appliances are fiberglass or silicone braided 2.5 Sqmm.
Mind You it has to withstand only 15A. I would go for 4mm for a little more insurance.
I would also check the power cord and outlet for damage. Heat travels down the line...
Mind You it has to withstand only 15A. I would go for 4mm for a little more insurance.
I would also check the power cord and outlet for damage. Heat travels down the line...
I replaced the chafed 2.5 square mm wires on my molding machine (the unit has to go back and forth at times) with 4 square mm fiberglass over mica insulated wires, and used a PVC guide hose to route the wires longer, without chafing.
Old wires were pairs inside stainless steel braid, new ones are bare, we tied them with ties away from the barrel, so as not to mix them up...
Been many years now, the power bill came down (less resistance loss), and the heaters build up faster to working temperature.
I used those wires in electric sandwich maker and also in convection oven. Crimped the joints.
I know somebody who makes heaters, so I get it per meter from him. He keeps it in stock, cheaper than traders.
The wire should be available at industrial supply places, the name for it may differ from what we call 'heater supply wire'.
An example:
https://express.ecsnz.com/en/heat-cables
No ties, name from from a search...
Try and get cables rated higher than the max. working temperature the unit chamber is capable of, safe practice.
A proper crimping tool is handy, or technique without it.
Old wires were pairs inside stainless steel braid, new ones are bare, we tied them with ties away from the barrel, so as not to mix them up...
Been many years now, the power bill came down (less resistance loss), and the heaters build up faster to working temperature.
I used those wires in electric sandwich maker and also in convection oven. Crimped the joints.
I know somebody who makes heaters, so I get it per meter from him. He keeps it in stock, cheaper than traders.
The wire should be available at industrial supply places, the name for it may differ from what we call 'heater supply wire'.
An example:
https://express.ecsnz.com/en/heat-cables
No ties, name from from a search...
Try and get cables rated higher than the max. working temperature the unit chamber is capable of, safe practice.
A proper crimping tool is handy, or technique without it.
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I replaced the wire with some that I salvaged from the element on an old wega 3 group coffee machine. It was slightly larger diameter than the original. High temp and voltage rating as one would expect on a 3 phase Italian commercial coffee machine.
It's amazing how much good quality wire and switch gear can be salvaged from coffee machines.
It's amazing how much good quality wire and switch gear can be salvaged from coffee machines.