Gentlemen,
I am looking for a decent chip (decent sounding, low THD, good internal protection, good availability, etc) able to do about 10W Po, a bit more into 4R, a bit less into 8R.
I am fully aware LM1875 running from just +/- 15V can do that nicely. Nevertheless, for some reason I am looking for an alternative designed for the 10W Po,max class.
Suggestions, please?
Kind regards, Tom
I am looking for a decent chip (decent sounding, low THD, good internal protection, good availability, etc) able to do about 10W Po, a bit more into 4R, a bit less into 8R.
I am fully aware LM1875 running from just +/- 15V can do that nicely. Nevertheless, for some reason I am looking for an alternative designed for the 10W Po,max class.
Suggestions, please?
Kind regards, Tom
If you run a TDA8932 in stereo mode and power it with +22V (single rail) you'll get about 12W into 4R.
Hi stv,
I should have mentioned that I don´t consider TDA2030 to play soundwise in the same league as LM1875, but are okay for many standard cases / applications. Actually I´ve built about 6 or 7 amps using TDA2030 (STC and more recently UTC) and I am looking for something better. I also used TDA2050 (UTC) in some projects with good results, but that is another power league. Certainly great value considering they go for 1€/piece from reputable dealers over here 🙂
Kind regards, Tom
I would too. You can always dial the supply voltage down if 10 W is the max you want out of the amp.
Tom
I have some pcb left of a stereo composite amp I've made with TDA 2050. It give very good results.
I can send them for free, except shipping.
I can send them for free, except shipping.
Why chip? 10watts is perfect domain for classA amps. Build aca mini from the store, its easy, all parts included, for lazy people like me, and a bargain and in the end you get many times better sound than from any chipmonk.
You can bridge two channels of ACA for higher output power.
Chips do offer an experience that's much closer to plug-n-play than most discrete designs, though. No bias to fiddle with. Lower potential for thermal issues.
Tom
Chips do offer an experience that's much closer to plug-n-play than most discrete designs, though. No bias to fiddle with. Lower potential for thermal issues.
Tom
4440, 6283, other chips used for small boom boxes, and their Class D equivalents can all be considered apart from 1875.
There are many choices for lower powered amps, some computer speaker chip amps are also in the mighty mouse class, 1W per channel....
Depends on where you live, and if you have an existing power supply you intend to use.
I think you should search for those in your area, apart from the on line sources.
Ready assembled boards should also be available.
And some are priced in the $2 class, hardly worth the effort to DIY, if you use the search term 'computer speaker chip amp'.
How good are your speakers, and what is their rated output?
There is a thread here on this forum about lunch money amps, small and cheap amps.
Take a look.
There are many choices for lower powered amps, some computer speaker chip amps are also in the mighty mouse class, 1W per channel....
Depends on where you live, and if you have an existing power supply you intend to use.
I think you should search for those in your area, apart from the on line sources.
Ready assembled boards should also be available.
And some are priced in the $2 class, hardly worth the effort to DIY, if you use the search term 'computer speaker chip amp'.
How good are your speakers, and what is their rated output?
There is a thread here on this forum about lunch money amps, small and cheap amps.
Take a look.
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Who says TDA2050 is in "another power leagee" ?????????
Basically same amp as all 5 leg chipamps, it does not create power, if you feed it "10W rails" it will put out 10W, go figure.
And I don´t believe you can tell one from the other by ear.
Basically same amp as all 5 leg chipamps, it does not create power, if you feed it "10W rails" it will put out 10W, go figure.
And I don´t believe you can tell one from the other by ear.
If you see the volts vs. Output watts graphs, you will realize that the 2050 is simply a higher voltage version of the 2030, more volts means more watts.
And quite similar to the 1875 in terms of THD and so on, the difference should not be audible.
Anyway, somebody in Singapore had posted here about a broken 5.1 set from Creative, and that used 2 stereo and one mono chip amp from Philips, for the satellites and woofer respectively.
You can look those up as well.
And quite similar to the 1875 in terms of THD and so on, the difference should not be audible.
Anyway, somebody in Singapore had posted here about a broken 5.1 set from Creative, and that used 2 stereo and one mono chip amp from Philips, for the satellites and woofer respectively.
You can look those up as well.
You can say that but i think TDA2030 circuitry is quite different from TDA2050 & the sonic difference is quite audible. The clipping behaviour of LM1875 isn't as bad as TDA2050 but the later provides much better performance into 4ohm load than the former.
Best Regards
Can you suggest a psu for either of the recommended amps. Time to change from my TPA3116D2 to one of the mentioned amps.
You intend to build from new or use the existing supply?
And why is it that you want to change away from a competent chip amp?
That said, 12-0-12, 3A is a perfectly good rating for a transformer, and here we get populated 2.1 amp boards, with heat sink and all, starting about $2.50.
4.1, 5.1 and 7.1 options are also sold.
Takes about an hour to install, you need to add transformer (board comes with AC input), and pots for bass, treble, volume, and also selector for input etc.
The cheap boards all use copied chip amps, and they sound good, particularly if not driven hard.
Better ones are also available, and I for one se no point in obtaining a genuine TI 1875 for $7 (including shipping, for one chip), and the rest of the parts, and fitting it all on a PCB, which again is to be ordered, with all the resistors, capacitors etc.
Too much work.
I use Philips sets found in the flea market, $2 each, with mostly Japanese chips and caps inside.
Matsushita, Toshiba and Mitsubishi chips, Rubycon, Nichicon and Philips caps, Philips pots...what more can you need?
And why is it that you want to change away from a competent chip amp?
That said, 12-0-12, 3A is a perfectly good rating for a transformer, and here we get populated 2.1 amp boards, with heat sink and all, starting about $2.50.
4.1, 5.1 and 7.1 options are also sold.
Takes about an hour to install, you need to add transformer (board comes with AC input), and pots for bass, treble, volume, and also selector for input etc.
The cheap boards all use copied chip amps, and they sound good, particularly if not driven hard.
Better ones are also available, and I for one se no point in obtaining a genuine TI 1875 for $7 (including shipping, for one chip), and the rest of the parts, and fitting it all on a PCB, which again is to be ordered, with all the resistors, capacitors etc.
Too much work.
I use Philips sets found in the flea market, $2 each, with mostly Japanese chips and caps inside.
Matsushita, Toshiba and Mitsubishi chips, Rubycon, Nichicon and Philips caps, Philips pots...what more can you need?