Hello, I am located in the US.
I found this old magazine from 1979 that has series of articles with regards how to build a modular integrated amplifier. I would like to build the unit. The problem is that all the PCB's are picture-based (see example below).
The question is: Is there anyone who could take the pictures and fabricate the PCB's given that I provide all size measurements, of course?
Thanks in advance.
Best
I found this old magazine from 1979 that has series of articles with regards how to build a modular integrated amplifier. I would like to build the unit. The problem is that all the PCB's are picture-based (see example below).
The question is: Is there anyone who could take the pictures and fabricate the PCB's given that I provide all size measurements, of course?
Thanks in advance.
Best
It's possible for DIY, but the artwork needs considerable cleaning up as it is. There are lots of shorts.
Bear in mind that many of the parts specified for the circuit may be obsolete by now.
It's also quite possible that someone has already made modern pcbs for this amp, so post the details and a link.
It may be stored here:
https://worldradiohistory.com/
Bear in mind that many of the parts specified for the circuit may be obsolete by now.
It's also quite possible that someone has already made modern pcbs for this amp, so post the details and a link.
It may be stored here:
https://worldradiohistory.com/
Last edited:
^^^^^ that.
1) you must scan that piece of artwork at high definition,say 600 DPI
2) enlarge it 2X , maybe even 4X And start cleaning using any Graphic software, think Photoshop or similar.Typically by drawing a white line, some 0.3mm to 0.5mm wide over points where pads or tracks touch.
3) then print , again using 600 dpi or better o0n transparency film or if unavailable (or your printer can´t take it), vellum ("Tracing paper")
Use that transparency to expose a piece of photopositive PCB material.
Develop - etch - drill - assemble.
1) you must scan that piece of artwork at high definition,say 600 DPI
2) enlarge it 2X , maybe even 4X And start cleaning using any Graphic software, think Photoshop or similar.Typically by drawing a white line, some 0.3mm to 0.5mm wide over points where pads or tracks touch.
3) then print , again using 600 dpi or better o0n transparency film or if unavailable (or your printer can´t take it), vellum ("Tracing paper")
Use that transparency to expose a piece of photopositive PCB material.
Develop - etch - drill - assemble.
Go on guitar pedal forums. Or this link: https://hackaday.com/2016/09/12/take-your-pcbs-from-good-to-great-toner-transfer/
There is a process using a laser printer and Playboy magazine (heavy slick-coated paper). Print heavy toner, use an iron to melt it onto PCB, soak in water until it peels off. Fix-up with a Sharpie and an X-acto. Then etch as usual. Takes practice to find the best iron-time and toner level, but none of the materials are expensive.
The other way is tedious but I have done circuits just that complicated. You want Carbon Paper, but that may be obsolete? A 2nd choice is a sharp compass-point (or are drawing compasses obsolete too?). Tape the pattern to PCB. Poke all the points. If you got carbon paper, lightly trace the traces. Remove pattern and ink with Sharpie or actual drafting ink, referring to the pattern when you get lost.
https://www.amazon.com/Outus-Sheets-Carbon-Transfer-Tracing/dp/B06X1BHWLF?th=1
There is a process using a laser printer and Playboy magazine (heavy slick-coated paper). Print heavy toner, use an iron to melt it onto PCB, soak in water until it peels off. Fix-up with a Sharpie and an X-acto. Then etch as usual. Takes practice to find the best iron-time and toner level, but none of the materials are expensive.
The other way is tedious but I have done circuits just that complicated. You want Carbon Paper, but that may be obsolete? A 2nd choice is a sharp compass-point (or are drawing compasses obsolete too?). Tape the pattern to PCB. Poke all the points. If you got carbon paper, lightly trace the traces. Remove pattern and ink with Sharpie or actual drafting ink, referring to the pattern when you get lost.
https://www.amazon.com/Outus-Sheets-Carbon-Transfer-Tracing/dp/B06X1BHWLF?th=1
Perf board works ok too. Print out the mirror image (top view) and place on the perf board, and stuff
components thru the paper. Bend the parts' wires and solder, following the original (bottom view).
components thru the paper. Bend the parts' wires and solder, following the original (bottom view).
Or...
Download the free version of some schematic capture and pcb layout software tool. I use DipTrace (Hobbyist DipTrace) but there are certainly others. Then, layout the pcb either by copying the picture you showed or by entering the schematic and then copying the picture you showed. One takes more time, but you'd learn a new useful skill that would also allow for simpler design changes later on. This might take a couple hours for a design like this if you're starting from scratch with no experience.
Then, export the pcb layout as a Gerber file and send it to a pcb fabricator. I've been using JLC lately and have been very satisfied.
JLC
Last week I sent them a design for a board of similar size to yours on Wednesday. Five boards arrived on the East Coast of the US on Monday - that's five days. The total price, including shipping, was $21.55. For that I got professionally fabricated pcbs complete with silk screen markings, a solder mask on each side, perfectly drilled holes, and even some cut-outs for a couple components that had tabs associated with them. I am positive that I could not have done that myself in my basement, and certainly not for that price.
So, a couple hours and maybe $25 or thereabouts. Maybe less, since they give new customers some discounts.
Usual disclaimer - I have no, none, zero, nada, squat connection to either of these places except as a customer who paid and pays full price for their products. (I bought an upgraded version of DipTrace with more capabilities. I've also used it for some work projects, which presumably are NOT non-profit...)
Download the free version of some schematic capture and pcb layout software tool. I use DipTrace (Hobbyist DipTrace) but there are certainly others. Then, layout the pcb either by copying the picture you showed or by entering the schematic and then copying the picture you showed. One takes more time, but you'd learn a new useful skill that would also allow for simpler design changes later on. This might take a couple hours for a design like this if you're starting from scratch with no experience.
Then, export the pcb layout as a Gerber file and send it to a pcb fabricator. I've been using JLC lately and have been very satisfied.
JLC
Last week I sent them a design for a board of similar size to yours on Wednesday. Five boards arrived on the East Coast of the US on Monday - that's five days. The total price, including shipping, was $21.55. For that I got professionally fabricated pcbs complete with silk screen markings, a solder mask on each side, perfectly drilled holes, and even some cut-outs for a couple components that had tabs associated with them. I am positive that I could not have done that myself in my basement, and certainly not for that price.
So, a couple hours and maybe $25 or thereabouts. Maybe less, since they give new customers some discounts.
Usual disclaimer - I have no, none, zero, nada, squat connection to either of these places except as a customer who paid and pays full price for their products. (I bought an upgraded version of DipTrace with more capabilities. I've also used it for some work projects, which presumably are NOT non-profit...)
In the past there were rub-down resist transfers for making one-off boards. Radio Shack sold them, among other sources, but when I looked recently they didn't seem to be available anywhere. The results were generally much nicer than with freehand resist pens. Maybe there are pressure-sensitive stickers and skinny tape that would work. Take a closer look at the scrapbooking and sticker sections at dollar stores?
Toner transfer is tricky; maybe if you can get a heated laminator so that step is repeatable.
If you're going to make a one-off board, my top tip is to drill the board first using a 1:1 copy of the layout as a template. This requires a carbide drill bit, because skinny HSS bits will just skitter around if there isn't a dimple to guide them. Then, no matter how ugly the hand-drawn pads and traces are, at least the holes are in the right place and the IC sockets will fit. If you got the scale right when printing...
Toner transfer is tricky; maybe if you can get a heated laminator so that step is repeatable.
If you're going to make a one-off board, my top tip is to drill the board first using a 1:1 copy of the layout as a template. This requires a carbide drill bit, because skinny HSS bits will just skitter around if there isn't a dimple to guide them. Then, no matter how ugly the hand-drawn pads and traces are, at least the holes are in the right place and the IC sockets will fit. If you got the scale right when printing...