1st thread so hello to all. Apologies in advance, i don't often post in forums so will try my best!
So as title, I want a pair of PA style speakers that will be mounted in two corners close to ceiling. They will be used for Karaoke, DJ sessions and small parties in a 62m3 room. I am hoping to make use of a spare NX3000 amp I have to power them and I also have a twin 10" DIY sub low passed @ 100hz, also powered by an NX3000. The sub is hooked up to my 5.1 Diamond 220 setup, Pioneer LX73 Receiver and does more than I need, for now!
Buy or DIY? Simpler to buy but from my experience always better and more satisfying to build.
Things to consider. Although no expert, i have basic wood working skills and tools such as, table saw, plunge saw, router etc and have already had a go at building 2 different sub boxes, so I feel comfortable enough to build myself and want to learn more anyway.
I've been looking over the "so you want to design your own speakers from scratch" thread and have taken notes on "determining basic needs". I will be honest a lot of it went over my head or may not apply to my situation. I am hoping that by answering them question here along with some notes, I could get some advice and recommendations.
Basic needs....
Space is not really an issue, the two corners are free to make use of, within reason of course.
How Loud? Based on the following i would say pretty loud lol. 1 : We already know what amp will be used, it is rated at 2 x 900w @ 4ohm or 2 x 1500w @ 2ohms so I will have plenty of power. 2 : They will be used in a party/dj environment and i already have a really good sub to back them up.
We listen to lots of fast paced dance music so need something that responds well. We will be using for karaoke (SM58) lol and listen to plenty of vocal music so we want something that's going to make vocals sound nice and bright. In this case i would say we were after something the opposite of flat speakers.
Boxes, as mentioned I will be building so no cost to consider other then materials, that I still have here and there 😉 They will be mounted and I need to work out how I am going to do that. One question here is do I need/want ports? From my understanding, loosely, a ported box take less power going down low vs sealed that requires more power but result is clearer bass tones. Although, seeing as I have a ported sub that's filling the room nicely and an amp with plenty of power ready, it makes me wonder if i am better off going with a sealed enclosure on this occasion as its more the clarity and detail i want from them anyway. Thoughts on this appreciated.
Tools, The one thing i may need here is "measuring equipment". I've got all the woodworking covered, I have a windows PC but what equipment do I need to start me off? I presume at the minimum a special microphone.
Crossover, At present I need to look into this a bit more. Designing on computer will be one thing but testing will be another. I am leaning towards passive crossover however.
Budget, 250 - 350 but maybe able to stretch a bit. This would be for speakers and crossover parts only. No labour cost and I'm not including the wood cost either, I have lots left over and its cheap for me around here.
Speaker type, 2 way and I'm thinking 12 to 15" driver unless 2 x smaller would be better for more detail in the midrange? I always see horns in PA speakers and this made my mind jump to them automatically. However I would appreciate any recommendations for my application, in the meantime I will be researching tweeter types as I have never, until now need to buy any.
Sorry if a long read guys 🙁 again I don't often post and have problems sometimes explaining myself.
I've looked over some really good guides and found some awesome material but unfortunately most of what I'm finding is related to 2 way or 3 way full range designs and mentions about adding a sub afterwards.
My situation is i have the sub covered first and i feel maybe wasting money and time buying speakers designed for sub 80hz and tuning the boxes as low as they go etc. When in fact the money and time maybe better spent!
I feel I don't know enough yet to make a better choice and the more I google around for drivers and start comparing spec/prices it all get a bit overwhelming tbh!
I am terrible with words and only hope that this makes sense. This is an ongoing project so I will be indeed researching as I go but appreciate any kind words you guys have to share 🙂
So as title, I want a pair of PA style speakers that will be mounted in two corners close to ceiling. They will be used for Karaoke, DJ sessions and small parties in a 62m3 room. I am hoping to make use of a spare NX3000 amp I have to power them and I also have a twin 10" DIY sub low passed @ 100hz, also powered by an NX3000. The sub is hooked up to my 5.1 Diamond 220 setup, Pioneer LX73 Receiver and does more than I need, for now!
Buy or DIY? Simpler to buy but from my experience always better and more satisfying to build.
Things to consider. Although no expert, i have basic wood working skills and tools such as, table saw, plunge saw, router etc and have already had a go at building 2 different sub boxes, so I feel comfortable enough to build myself and want to learn more anyway.
I've been looking over the "so you want to design your own speakers from scratch" thread and have taken notes on "determining basic needs". I will be honest a lot of it went over my head or may not apply to my situation. I am hoping that by answering them question here along with some notes, I could get some advice and recommendations.
Basic needs....
Space is not really an issue, the two corners are free to make use of, within reason of course.
How Loud? Based on the following i would say pretty loud lol. 1 : We already know what amp will be used, it is rated at 2 x 900w @ 4ohm or 2 x 1500w @ 2ohms so I will have plenty of power. 2 : They will be used in a party/dj environment and i already have a really good sub to back them up.
We listen to lots of fast paced dance music so need something that responds well. We will be using for karaoke (SM58) lol and listen to plenty of vocal music so we want something that's going to make vocals sound nice and bright. In this case i would say we were after something the opposite of flat speakers.
Boxes, as mentioned I will be building so no cost to consider other then materials, that I still have here and there 😉 They will be mounted and I need to work out how I am going to do that. One question here is do I need/want ports? From my understanding, loosely, a ported box take less power going down low vs sealed that requires more power but result is clearer bass tones. Although, seeing as I have a ported sub that's filling the room nicely and an amp with plenty of power ready, it makes me wonder if i am better off going with a sealed enclosure on this occasion as its more the clarity and detail i want from them anyway. Thoughts on this appreciated.
Tools, The one thing i may need here is "measuring equipment". I've got all the woodworking covered, I have a windows PC but what equipment do I need to start me off? I presume at the minimum a special microphone.
Crossover, At present I need to look into this a bit more. Designing on computer will be one thing but testing will be another. I am leaning towards passive crossover however.
Budget, 250 - 350 but maybe able to stretch a bit. This would be for speakers and crossover parts only. No labour cost and I'm not including the wood cost either, I have lots left over and its cheap for me around here.
Speaker type, 2 way and I'm thinking 12 to 15" driver unless 2 x smaller would be better for more detail in the midrange? I always see horns in PA speakers and this made my mind jump to them automatically. However I would appreciate any recommendations for my application, in the meantime I will be researching tweeter types as I have never, until now need to buy any.
Sorry if a long read guys 🙁 again I don't often post and have problems sometimes explaining myself.
I've looked over some really good guides and found some awesome material but unfortunately most of what I'm finding is related to 2 way or 3 way full range designs and mentions about adding a sub afterwards.
My situation is i have the sub covered first and i feel maybe wasting money and time buying speakers designed for sub 80hz and tuning the boxes as low as they go etc. When in fact the money and time maybe better spent!
I feel I don't know enough yet to make a better choice and the more I google around for drivers and start comparing spec/prices it all get a bit overwhelming tbh!
I am terrible with words and only hope that this makes sense. This is an ongoing project so I will be indeed researching as I go but appreciate any kind words you guys have to share 🙂
If your 2x10" subwoofer keeps up fine, you're not getting particularly loud. I'd go with a pair of decent 8" coaxial speakers and call it good. Go for a ported box (more LF output, and air flow to keep the driver cool). The Faital Pro 8HX230 is worth a look - I've been pleased with the 10"s.
FWIW, the NX3000 will do about 300/600/1000w/ch into 8/4/2ohm, with the 2ohm figure being for short durations. If you try and get it to full power with a sine tone, it'll shut down in a few seconds.
Chris
FWIW, the NX3000 will do about 300/600/1000w/ch into 8/4/2ohm, with the 2ohm figure being for short durations. If you try and get it to full power with a sine tone, it'll shut down in a few seconds.
Chris
Hey Chris, my twin 10 is ok for now as I only have the Wharfdales and it can easily over shadow them. Going forward I will be upgrading that too, probably to two single 15's. This is because while crawling my current sub (build foe a different space) i found the best spot and it all just kind of dictated furniture arrangement but in a way we all like and are comfortable with. Now we can utilize the space more, have room for 2 rear subs, so new designs are in the works.
Thanks for the suggestion of Faital Pro and advice about the amp. I got 2 of them for a good deal so its just what I'm using right now. I had a quick look at the 8 and 10 faital, if I was going to go with them i would probably put 2 in each box or consider something bigger. Reason being is that i want this to be more a one and done situation so would rather be more than happy and have a little over kill. Especially at the price of them guys. I was looking at Celestion TF1020 after seeing a diy build and they are around £80 but I could buy 2x 10" Faital's for the same price. To my un experienced and noob eye they both look very similar on paper. I am also thinking that if i am putting 2 10's in, maybe its better to look for a single 12 or 15?
thanks again for your input Chris!
Thanks for the suggestion of Faital Pro and advice about the amp. I got 2 of them for a good deal so its just what I'm using right now. I had a quick look at the 8 and 10 faital, if I was going to go with them i would probably put 2 in each box or consider something bigger. Reason being is that i want this to be more a one and done situation so would rather be more than happy and have a little over kill. Especially at the price of them guys. I was looking at Celestion TF1020 after seeing a diy build and they are around £80 but I could buy 2x 10" Faital's for the same price. To my un experienced and noob eye they both look very similar on paper. I am also thinking that if i am putting 2 10's in, maybe its better to look for a single 12 or 15?
thanks again for your input Chris!
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Chris, just to clarify did you mean the 8FE200? as my comment above was based on this as i couldn't find a 8HX230, sorry.
For an inexperienced person, measuring and modeling are not typically as straightforward as they might appear on the surface. If you aren't serious about turning speaker design into a hobby, I'd lean toward finding a well-documented project that's similar to what you want and using that to build from.
Your recommendation lead me to a site called Lean-Business dot co uk. They seem to sell some quality equipment so I started looking around for drivers.
I came across an Eminence Delta 15" 400w 4ohm speaker @ £87 but sold out. However can still get it for close to £100 or maybe contact them about stock. Then i decided if maybe a good idea to pair it with a matching HF driver.
I chose an Eminence ASD1001 1" 50W Compression Driver. These are around £35.
Rough total of 2 15"s and 2 Tweeters is £270 leaving £80 budget to go towards horns and crossover parts.
I have never heard of this particular brand so if anyone has experience with them please drop a post. They seem good on paper, the 15's can be crossed @ 2.5 to match the tweeter and them being 4 ohm instead of eight I thought means I wont have to turn the amp up as high and benefit from additional power with less strain on the amp.
This is just a noob to speaker choosing looking at prices and figures, trying to make a somewhat educated guess based on budget and requirement's. Those prices and figures don't seem to bad of a starting point but i don't know much about the brand. Hope to get some more input and also will be doing more research....
I came across an Eminence Delta 15" 400w 4ohm speaker @ £87 but sold out. However can still get it for close to £100 or maybe contact them about stock. Then i decided if maybe a good idea to pair it with a matching HF driver.
I chose an Eminence ASD1001 1" 50W Compression Driver. These are around £35.
Rough total of 2 15"s and 2 Tweeters is £270 leaving £80 budget to go towards horns and crossover parts.
I have never heard of this particular brand so if anyone has experience with them please drop a post. They seem good on paper, the 15's can be crossed @ 2.5 to match the tweeter and them being 4 ohm instead of eight I thought means I wont have to turn the amp up as high and benefit from additional power with less strain on the amp.
This is just a noob to speaker choosing looking at prices and figures, trying to make a somewhat educated guess based on budget and requirement's. Those prices and figures don't seem to bad of a starting point but i don't know much about the brand. Hope to get some more input and also will be doing more research....
Hey matt, thanks for your reply. I am indeed very inexperienced, can i just confirm what you mean. When you say modelling do you mean as if in WIN ISD and alike from a program perspective. If so i did design 2 subs in the past. 1st one was blind without software and just made use of spare wood at no cost with nothing but an image in mind and 2 10"s i already had. I did not like this one at all and in hindsight my port was way too big and box was too small. 2nd one and the one i am using for now was done in "speaker box lite" I tried WIN ISD but couldn't get on with it as easy as the other one. I played with box volume and port adjustment for along time before i settle on a design. Let me tell you, i really enjoyed the work involved in bringing the vision to life.
When you say measuring, can we take a small delve into what someone entering the hobby would need and how much would they be looking to spend to get them going? I know I am going to need a mic and although I cant remember the name of it, after some research I did find one around the £100 mark.
Also at the very minimum i have 2 subs to build and requests from friends so would like to improve and learn how to better complete the process.
Could you point any out? I would love to read over some that are suited to me. Thanks
Michael Chua's Ospreys might work well for you.
https://ampslab-spk.com/2019/07/17/osprey-ii-revisited/
https://ampslab-spk.com/2019/07/17/osprey-ii-revisited/
I was talking more from the crossover design standpoint in a multi-way speaker. For most speakers, designing the woofer enclosure is easier than designing the crossover. There are more variables in the crossover, and a lot more compromises/choices to make.
The typical route taken for low-cost measurement is REW. I don't use it though, so can't provide much guidance on that. There are many threads here that talk about it though.
The hardware/software for measuring is only the beginning of the story. Since most people are trying to measure in a home environment, there are many interactions and limitations that have to be taken into consideration to get reasonably accurate results. I'm not trying to discourage you from pursuing all of this, but there are a lot of moving parts and most people don't figure them out over night. Depending on your temperament and expectations, some of it can be frustrating in the beginning.
I don't really keep up with PA speakers, but something like this might work. I recognize Toid's name, but I've not used any of his plans, so can't vouch for them.
Here are a few straight from Celestion. I would hope they know how to use their own drivers 🙂
https://celestion.com/blog/build-this-compact-10-two-way-pa-speaker-design/
https://celestion.com/blog/build-this-compact-12-two-way-pa-cabinet-design/
https://celestion.com/blog/build-this-15-two-way-pa-cabinet-design/
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I meant this driver: https://faitalpro.com/en/products/Coaxial_Loudspeakers/product_details/index.php?id=351030200
Or the 10HX230.
I've used the 10"s with a pair of 18" subwoofers, for live music with a couple of hundred people in the audience. They held up well, allowing me to fully mic the drum kit and amplify it as needed.
NB - the -HX230 drivers are a serious step up from the drivers you've mentioned, and correspond better with the "do it right the first time around" attitude.
FWIW, I avoid 15"+1" speakers like the plague. Even if the 15" can get high enough to meet the 1" driver (doesn't always happen), they're rarely smooth up there, and those that are will still have an awful off-axis response. ie, it'll only sound good if you're in the laserbeam of midrange coming out of the 15" driver. Anywhere else will be mud.
If I was going to use 15" drivers in a mid-high speakers, it'd be with a high-end compression driver and a low crossover point.
Chris
Have a search for the Econowave project, a lot of threads about it and would be a good choice if you did not want to design your own crossover.
Rob.
Rob.
That Osprey post 6 has a nasty dip in the response at 7 khz.
Beaming at 2 khz is one reason Peavey SP2(2004) has a wedge shaped cabinet to spread the sound of the woofer wider. It crosses at 2000 hz. 500 w continuous rating. SP2(2004) is limited in power by 70 w continuous rating of the RX22 tweeter. 1.4" CD on horn instead of 1". This package blows off response over 15 khz, which is fine with me since my tinitus covers any sound above 14 khz. See the +- 3 db chart of the datasheet, 54 to 15 khz.
So I've been trying to build some too ugly to be stolen as mine were. The burglar avoided carting off any of my home projects, just the professional packages. Think natural color mdf is nasty enough to leave them in my living room?
For a little higher tweeter watt rating compatible with your amp an Eminence N314x has 150 w rating. Also 1.4" throat CD. This would allow you to cross at 1000 hz or even 800 hz to avoid breakups of a 15" woofer. And still maintain a 500 w pink noise rating. The deltapro-15A is 400 w rated but you could go higher to 450 w with a kappapro-15. Kappa commits you to vented however since Qt is .32. deltapro15a will go sealed or vented with Qt of .4 . I didn't find the vented SP2(2004) muddy on vocals, they were the best sounding speakers I've heard (at 50w) in this flywover state.
If you have some acreage, measurement can be done outside on quiet nights from 2 m with a $35 condensor mike like the Farnell CM1800. Takes a mixer with phantom power, my PV8 was $60 used. Output goes right into PC line level jack (blue). I back the speaker under test to a cinder block wall to include the 3 db bass gain of a backing wall. As your venue has. No "baflle step compensation" (bass boost) required in the crossover if you back the speaker into a hard wall. Speakers set on front of an open stage that produce bass require BSC.
If you have to measure indoors you have to use gating software like REW (free download) to eliminate room reflections. In that case you have to measure from 1 m or closer and use an $100 omni mike like those from Behringer or Parts-express.com . The USB version can be affected by the random updates of windows, changes latency. I prefer the analog output (1.6 vac) versions and the sound card.
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IMO you should buy random used fullrange PA speakers and be happy. The fiddling with all the limitations and options will drive you more and more away from real results which is your actual goal - not learning how to modell speakers
Ah ok, only briefly looked at this section and will be digging in soon. In my favour i have the soldering equipment/experience and an abundance of old electronics/parts I could make use of for practice. Once i get my head around how to test a crossover i can try building something simple and can move on from there. I do understand that this is far for simple stuff and appreciate everything, thank you.
I did come across that at some point, will further research.
Thats a good video, don't know Toid's but subbed and will be looking over his stuff a little more, thanks for that 🙂 The Celestion kits do look interesting and I was/am considering the 12 or 15. Although, i would loose out on the experience, knowledge, satisfaction and possibly performance/cost too, seeing as I am in no hurry to build I could sit back and wait for deals if I leave my options open for now.
ouch £227 for the 8HX230 driver 😳 That is serious. Something to think about but not sure i want to go that budget crazy. 30 to 50 people max 🙂 more like groups of 5 to 10 regularly and 20 to 30 occasionally.
Thanks for advice RE the 15" & 1" I will come back to that depending on where I end up.
Thanks Bob, hours of reading and just not the type of thing I find when I try to google something like that 🙂
Some of that is going to take me a good few reads to digest 🙂 Thanks for taking the time to explain and recommending mic etc, I will be reading back over this.
While I completely get your point this is both true and not. My goal was not trying to learn how to model speakers at all and it would be easier to just go and buy a set and be done.
However over the past year we have been renovation our home and due to this i have acquired tools and woodworking skills. I have been building cupboards, detailing with my router etc and then I build some speakers, what can I say, I like a challenge and needed a hobby so here we are 🙂 Seriously though, after doing some research and mock ups both in Speaker box lite and with drivers i had laying around I just knew I needed to know more.
Hey guys, just an update on how I want to move forward and some decisions....
After lots of back and forth with a tape measure, using speaker modeling software and further research I have settled on 12" build rather than a 15"s
and I am leaning towards the "Eminence 12 Delta Pro" paired with maybe the Selenium D220ti. This may or may not be the best choice but as this may possibly change, for now it will aid me moving forward if I settle on drivers/cab and move on to the difficult part of figuring out the crossovers.
RE: the cab, on parts express there is a manufacturer recommended enclosure that I will be roughly sticking to "DeltaPro12 Med Vented Cab.; Mid/High or Floor Monitor"
Link if allowed? https://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/more-info/290-510--eminence-delta-pro-12a-cabinet-design.pdf
I would like to move forward now by learning the modelling side of the crossovers but need a little advice on how to proceed. Let me just add first a few details\updates....
I purchased a small LCR meter and used an old transformer winding, re-wound onto a plastic wedge to make an inductor. If anyone can recommend some wire that would be great as I will be needing some going forward?
I've also got a mic I can make use of now, although not setup yet. I went for the Sonarworks SoundID, will be connected and powered via Behringer 1002USB mixer.
My understanding of crossovers has increased a little. I now know how basic high/lowpass filters work, how orders work in terms of db roll off and slope steepness, that resistors reduce db and are used to equalized the frequency response, the importance of quality components and I have also attempted to use vituix but at a loss as I could not get the FRD/ZMA files for the Delta pro at the time, I will be revisiting. That's about where I am at currently but its moving forward from an educational standpoint that I need some help.
Although my end goal maybe a crossover for the Delta Selenium combo above or something similar , I do not have the components yet so it makes sense to use what I have to learn.
I have 3 separate test scenarios\subjects I want to run through and it is right here that I would really like some help! Please bare in mind these will be my first speaker tests ever and I want to learn as much as I can from them and would appreciate any tips or things I should be aware of.
Scenario 1 : Subject is a Wharfedale 220. My goal here is to accustom myself to the conditions of taking reliable measurements and the software involved. Not really a crossover scenario here but more of getting setup for measurements. In this case am I right to think that the Mic will be placed a meter away but inline with the driver and I can use REW to get frequency response graphs that I can later compare? Planning on maybe altering port height for comparison.
Scenario 2 : Subject is a 25yr+ old 400w 8ohm Bumper Pro Series 10" that I cannot find specs for. I tried loudspeaker database website but the make is not recognized? I want know if it is possible to measure this speaker and get the information required for box and crossover modelling software? My plan here is to be measuring this speaker in free air whilst practicing with simple crossovers in circuit in order to familiarize myself with the process and adjustments that maybe needed. Is there anything wrong with this? Things I should be aware of?
Scenario 3 : Subject is a pair of old Aiwa 3 way Stereo speaker. I plan to use these speakers to learn from, with an aim to convert them into desktop speakers. They was in glued boxes and had to be broken open to access insides. However this means I have a two 3 way crossovers and some small drivers to experiment with. In total there are 10 speakers, a 5" woofer, 2 x 3"mids and 2 tweeters per box.
For this project lets say that I would like to convert to a 2 way desktop speaker and plan to use the 5" woofer only and source a tweeter to match and cover the rest of the spectrum. If this was my goal then what I need to figure out is how to determine cut off frequency of the 5" driver first. Can I please get some advice on how I do this accurately?
Other crossover related questions.
Can one make a passive HP crossover to protect from cone excursion or is this always a DSP thing? An online calculator recommended around 497uf for a 40hz HP and 284uf for 70hz. The reason I am a little confused by this is lack of electrical circuit knowledge :/ But if you have a HP/LP 2 way in place and doing its job can you then add a 70hz HP in the chain via components rather than digital hardware of some kind? Sorry if a stupid question but I will be needing roughly a 70hz 24db HP on the Delta's so something I'm thinking about.
I planning on setting up the mic and starting tests over the next week and will be continuing to research in the background. Thanks again for all the above information and tips you guys can offer a noob going forward.
After lots of back and forth with a tape measure, using speaker modeling software and further research I have settled on 12" build rather than a 15"s
and I am leaning towards the "Eminence 12 Delta Pro" paired with maybe the Selenium D220ti. This may or may not be the best choice but as this may possibly change, for now it will aid me moving forward if I settle on drivers/cab and move on to the difficult part of figuring out the crossovers.
RE: the cab, on parts express there is a manufacturer recommended enclosure that I will be roughly sticking to "DeltaPro12 Med Vented Cab.; Mid/High or Floor Monitor"
Link if allowed? https://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/more-info/290-510--eminence-delta-pro-12a-cabinet-design.pdf
I would like to move forward now by learning the modelling side of the crossovers but need a little advice on how to proceed. Let me just add first a few details\updates....
I purchased a small LCR meter and used an old transformer winding, re-wound onto a plastic wedge to make an inductor. If anyone can recommend some wire that would be great as I will be needing some going forward?
I've also got a mic I can make use of now, although not setup yet. I went for the Sonarworks SoundID, will be connected and powered via Behringer 1002USB mixer.
My understanding of crossovers has increased a little. I now know how basic high/lowpass filters work, how orders work in terms of db roll off and slope steepness, that resistors reduce db and are used to equalized the frequency response, the importance of quality components and I have also attempted to use vituix but at a loss as I could not get the FRD/ZMA files for the Delta pro at the time, I will be revisiting. That's about where I am at currently but its moving forward from an educational standpoint that I need some help.
Although my end goal maybe a crossover for the Delta Selenium combo above or something similar , I do not have the components yet so it makes sense to use what I have to learn.
I have 3 separate test scenarios\subjects I want to run through and it is right here that I would really like some help! Please bare in mind these will be my first speaker tests ever and I want to learn as much as I can from them and would appreciate any tips or things I should be aware of.
Scenario 1 : Subject is a Wharfedale 220. My goal here is to accustom myself to the conditions of taking reliable measurements and the software involved. Not really a crossover scenario here but more of getting setup for measurements. In this case am I right to think that the Mic will be placed a meter away but inline with the driver and I can use REW to get frequency response graphs that I can later compare? Planning on maybe altering port height for comparison.
Scenario 2 : Subject is a 25yr+ old 400w 8ohm Bumper Pro Series 10" that I cannot find specs for. I tried loudspeaker database website but the make is not recognized? I want know if it is possible to measure this speaker and get the information required for box and crossover modelling software? My plan here is to be measuring this speaker in free air whilst practicing with simple crossovers in circuit in order to familiarize myself with the process and adjustments that maybe needed. Is there anything wrong with this? Things I should be aware of?
Scenario 3 : Subject is a pair of old Aiwa 3 way Stereo speaker. I plan to use these speakers to learn from, with an aim to convert them into desktop speakers. They was in glued boxes and had to be broken open to access insides. However this means I have a two 3 way crossovers and some small drivers to experiment with. In total there are 10 speakers, a 5" woofer, 2 x 3"mids and 2 tweeters per box.
For this project lets say that I would like to convert to a 2 way desktop speaker and plan to use the 5" woofer only and source a tweeter to match and cover the rest of the spectrum. If this was my goal then what I need to figure out is how to determine cut off frequency of the 5" driver first. Can I please get some advice on how I do this accurately?
Other crossover related questions.
Can one make a passive HP crossover to protect from cone excursion or is this always a DSP thing? An online calculator recommended around 497uf for a 40hz HP and 284uf for 70hz. The reason I am a little confused by this is lack of electrical circuit knowledge :/ But if you have a HP/LP 2 way in place and doing its job can you then add a 70hz HP in the chain via components rather than digital hardware of some kind? Sorry if a stupid question but I will be needing roughly a 70hz 24db HP on the Delta's so something I'm thinking about.
I planning on setting up the mic and starting tests over the next week and will be continuing to research in the background. Thanks again for all the above information and tips you guys can offer a noob going forward.