I want some better bass for my computer based music in the space under my desk.
I'm thinking about buying one of the Dayton SD315-8-8s and running it in dual 8R.
My wifes passive sub under her desk works like this as a .5 woofer boost but I need better bigger bass than she has. Ive been jealous ever since I made her the unit.
I can only find data as measured in parallel, before buying I am wondering if anybody has measured these in single 8R and if so by how much do the parameters change?
I can find room under my desk for a box 400 wide * 450 deep * 550 high so a closed box of around 90 litres internal and sealed, and naturally in a corner
I'm thinking about buying one of the Dayton SD315-8-8s and running it in dual 8R.
My wifes passive sub under her desk works like this as a .5 woofer boost but I need better bigger bass than she has. Ive been jealous ever since I made her the unit.
I can only find data as measured in parallel, before buying I am wondering if anybody has measured these in single 8R and if so by how much do the parameters change?
I can find room under my desk for a box 400 wide * 450 deep * 550 high so a closed box of around 90 litres internal and sealed, and naturally in a corner
RS 40-1350A
Dual 4R coils and not well matched
Fs is OK at 25Hz but Qts is over 1.5
Vas about 220 litres
The Dayton is a much better candidate.
Some RadioShack drivers were excellent, some were OK and some were Crapola; this isn't one of the better ones. Lucky for me I only paid $30- or so. Actually bought it on here from a member who is no longer active and was sold a pup; you live and learn
Dual 4R coils and not well matched
Fs is OK at 25Hz but Qts is over 1.5
Vas about 220 litres
The Dayton is a much better candidate.
Some RadioShack drivers were excellent, some were OK and some were Crapola; this isn't one of the better ones. Lucky for me I only paid $30- or so. Actually bought it on here from a member who is no longer active and was sold a pup; you live and learn
Just ordered the driver. Cheaper on eBay by using a voucher to save postage costs.
I am repurposing one of the dead H/T subwoofer boxes about 55 litres actual and I'll stuff it with FG and polyester and I'll use a couple of the cheap 9mH cored coils from my stash. So this will run as a dual .5 sub.
Near enough good enough for computer music and the little speakers may run a tad cleaner with some of the bass directed to the new driver
I am repurposing one of the dead H/T subwoofer boxes about 55 litres actual and I'll stuff it with FG and polyester and I'll use a couple of the cheap 9mH cored coils from my stash. So this will run as a dual .5 sub.
Near enough good enough for computer music and the little speakers may run a tad cleaner with some of the bass directed to the new driver
Thanks! One of the few I never got around to trying due to its high Qt & Vas, which I see were consistent in sum totaling higher. 🙁 Surprised Fs is lower than spec though.
REALISTIC 40-1350
Nominal Impedance:..........................................4/8 ohm +/- 15%Frequency Response:...........................................31 Hz-1.5 kHzFree Air Resonance (Fs) Frequency:....................................31 HzInfinite Baffle Resonance Frequency:..................................30 HzPiston Area (SD):.................................................0.0527 m2RMS Thermal Power Limit (PMAX):.......................................120 WRated Power Input - Nominal:...........................................60 WFlux Density (BL):.................................................10.24 TMDC Voice Coil Resistance (RE, ohms):......................3.6 ohms/7.2 ohmsVoice Coil Inductance (LVC at 1 kHz):..........................0.35/1.43 mHSPL:...................................................87/89 +/- 2 dB/1W/1mMoving Mass (Mms):..................................................52.49 gElectrical Q Factor (QES):........................................1.23/0.60Mechanical Q Factor (QMS):.............................................4.33Total Q Factor:...................................................0.53/0.96Equivalent Acoustic Volume (VAS):...................................269.6 LMechanical Suspension Compliance (CMS, UM/N):...................684.24 UM/NMechanical Mass of Cone Assembly and Free Air Load:.................52.49 gMechanical Mass of Cone Assembly Only:..............................45.54 gPeak-to-Peak (Maximum) Linear Excursion:............................3.00 mmCutout:..............................................11 1/16 Inches/28.2 cmDepth:.................................................5 1/4 Inches/13.4 cmPower Handling:................................................60 Watts RMSMagnet Weight:........................................................18 ozSpeaker Weight:.....................................................60.2 oz
Previous owner played around with some coating on the cone and duct cover. Probably epoxy paint and therefore some added mass.
I think I'm going to need lower DCR inductors, adding a full Ohm resistance to these really messes with the box size, by the time you add speaker wire DCR to the 0.86R of the 9mH inductor it's a full Ohm. I can get thicker speaker wire but 0.86R is a heck of an burden on efficiency and box size. Large wire inductors are starting to become unaffordable for playing around with, affordable option is crossing the point5 woofer much higher.
Perhaps getting a better sound card with the ability to do this in the digital realm and just buy another small amplifier would; in the long run; provide better sound and be almost the same cost. Any advice on that ?
The software with my onboard sound doesn't seem to allow that option
I think I'm going to need lower DCR inductors, adding a full Ohm resistance to these really messes with the box size, by the time you add speaker wire DCR to the 0.86R of the 9mH inductor it's a full Ohm. I can get thicker speaker wire but 0.86R is a heck of an burden on efficiency and box size. Large wire inductors are starting to become unaffordable for playing around with, affordable option is crossing the point5 woofer much higher.
Perhaps getting a better sound card with the ability to do this in the digital realm and just buy another small amplifier would; in the long run; provide better sound and be almost the same cost. Any advice on that ?
The software with my onboard sound doesn't seem to allow that option
Yeah, with such a high Qt, any resistance is too much! No clue about computer stuff, my active 'career' in audio stopped at mid '80s electronics technology. As far as inductors, we typically would buy a bulk roll of wire at the local industrial electrical supply outlet (cheap) or emporium if none available as the next cheapest and unwind to suit, using the 'scrap' for making speaker/whatever wiring harnesses.
Don't know about nowadays, but back then folks saved a bunch and if you know someone that makes their living doing commercial/industrial wiring they can get it (significantly in my time) cheaper.
Don't know about nowadays, but back then folks saved a bunch and if you know someone that makes their living doing commercial/industrial wiring they can get it (significantly in my time) cheaper.
I think I can do it cheaply and digitally in JRivers, so I just downloaded and paid for it.
I'll use the Dayton sub wired in series at 16R or in parallel at 4R nominal and find an amp somewhere. Not pretty but should work. The dual coil sub was $100- cheaper than a single coil version
I'll use the Dayton sub wired in series at 16R or in parallel at 4R nominal and find an amp somewhere. Not pretty but should work. The dual coil sub was $100- cheaper than a single coil version
I may have made a mistake buying that Dayton DVC woofer.
If I can do the XO using a digital process and the sound card I can use the original woofer that was in the old sub, it is the amp section that has died not the driver and I can get a small digital amp [ Chinese Fosi Audio] for less than a $100- on eBay or just use one channel from one of the many amps I already have.
I guess I can send the woofer back for a refund or maybe I could buy a another and use it in a project.
I've always liked 16R drivers, way back when I made my son a set of 3-Ways using relatively cheap RS woofers. I used the RS DVC woofers wired as 16R and used 3 of them in parallel. 2 in front mounted WMTMW and the third on the rear as baffle step compensation, one of the better speakers I've made although he complained that it never had as much bass as he wanted.
It wouldn't be exactly cheap but buying 5 more of these might make a decent speaker if used in the same way
If I can do the XO using a digital process and the sound card I can use the original woofer that was in the old sub, it is the amp section that has died not the driver and I can get a small digital amp [ Chinese Fosi Audio] for less than a $100- on eBay or just use one channel from one of the many amps I already have.
I guess I can send the woofer back for a refund or maybe I could buy a another and use it in a project.
I've always liked 16R drivers, way back when I made my son a set of 3-Ways using relatively cheap RS woofers. I used the RS DVC woofers wired as 16R and used 3 of them in parallel. 2 in front mounted WMTMW and the third on the rear as baffle step compensation, one of the better speakers I've made although he complained that it never had as much bass as he wanted.
It wouldn't be exactly cheap but buying 5 more of these might make a decent speaker if used in the same way
Of the RS woofers I used, only the cheap 40-1309 18" was a worthy woofer and pretty decent 'sub' for the times in a 24" dia. x 84" H concrete former tube MLTL tuned to Fs.
Bogus specs, mine were closer to 21 Hz Fs, 24 ft^3 Vas, 0.27 Qts:
Radio Shack Cat, No. 40-1309 (18" Subwoofer)
Nominal Impedance........................... 8 ohms
DC Resistance (RE)............................ 6.83 ohms
Free Air Response............................. 16.5 hz
Equivalent Air Volume(VAS)............... 41 Ft3
Moving Mass (Mms)........................... 192.6 Grams
Mechanical Q (QMS)........................... 1.986
Electrical Q (QES)............................... 0.225
Total Q (QTS)..................................... 0.20
Peak Power Handling........................ 200 Watts
Peak-to-Peak Linear Excursion(XD)... 6.1 mm
Gap Flux Density(BG)......................... 7850 Gauss (+/- 200 Gauss)
Bogus specs, mine were closer to 21 Hz Fs, 24 ft^3 Vas, 0.27 Qts:
Radio Shack Cat, No. 40-1309 (18" Subwoofer)
Nominal Impedance........................... 8 ohms
DC Resistance (RE)............................ 6.83 ohms
Free Air Response............................. 16.5 hz
Equivalent Air Volume(VAS)............... 41 Ft3
Moving Mass (Mms)........................... 192.6 Grams
Mechanical Q (QMS)........................... 1.986
Electrical Q (QES)............................... 0.225
Total Q (QTS)..................................... 0.20
Peak Power Handling........................ 200 Watts
Peak-to-Peak Linear Excursion(XD)... 6.1 mm
Gap Flux Density(BG)......................... 7850 Gauss (+/- 200 Gauss)
Well I'm not happy.
That Dayton driver arrived and the seller has sent me a used woofer, still got the old speaker wire attached. In the meantime they have put the price of them up $50- and had the cheek to then offer me a 10% discount if I took all 3 of them. Sending this one back for a refund.
I have other and alternative drivers for a small sealed box, and I have ordered a new soundcard with sub out to use with a cheap digital amp I just got for $60-
That Dayton driver arrived and the seller has sent me a used woofer, still got the old speaker wire attached. In the meantime they have put the price of them up $50- and had the cheek to then offer me a 10% discount if I took all 3 of them. Sending this one back for a refund.
I have other and alternative drivers for a small sealed box, and I have ordered a new soundcard with sub out to use with a cheap digital amp I just got for $60-
Bummer, seems to be the new marketing (pandemic enforced?) strategy; I ordered a functional replacement remote for my HT receiver though didn't look like it, but had the same number of functions, etc., yet can only make it do a few basic functions, which they confirmed today and that I can already do with my TV remote! They offered me a $10 rebate (BFD), but thankfully Amazon will let me return it.
Simply not value for money at the new price. Selling in US dollars isn't going to do much outside of the USA. One single SB driver costs more but has better performance than 2 of the Dayton in parallel so I might be buying a couple of the SB Acoustics woofers or subwoofers instead. But for the computer I'll be using a single woofer in a recycled box and the subwoofer output of the new soundcard. Works out cheaper that way
I am finding it difficult to believe that this tiny black box can put out 100 watts.
Even discounting the separate Ac to DC power supply is this little FOSI Audio amplifier [# MO-2] really going to put out enough power to give decent levels of bass?
Is modern digital really that efficient?
Even discounting the separate Ac to DC power supply is this little FOSI Audio amplifier [# MO-2] really going to put out enough power to give decent levels of bass?
Is modern digital really that efficient?
