Here I am making the bedroom speakers again and using the series crossover designed by rabbitz for the 2-Way reference thread.
rabbitz has kindly gifted me some parts and amongst them is a pair of Mundorf supremes in 3.3uF; I need 6.8uF [ or possibly 7.2] for this XO. It seems a shame to waste the gifted caps by not using them [ Thanx Peter] but I need to parallel caps to get the correct value. I'm trying to determine whether or not to put in an order for a pair of matching caps in either 3.3uF or 3.9uF and try for something closer to perfection or to simply use a couple of the Jantzen blue I already have.
I'll start another build thread for these as soon as I have some table space to start cutting out panels but 2.5 way using Vifa P-13 + Vifa D-27-45-06 and a Dayton DC160-8 for the point five
rabbitz has kindly gifted me some parts and amongst them is a pair of Mundorf supremes in 3.3uF; I need 6.8uF [ or possibly 7.2] for this XO. It seems a shame to waste the gifted caps by not using them [ Thanx Peter] but I need to parallel caps to get the correct value. I'm trying to determine whether or not to put in an order for a pair of matching caps in either 3.3uF or 3.9uF and try for something closer to perfection or to simply use a couple of the Jantzen blue I already have.
I'll start another build thread for these as soon as I have some table space to start cutting out panels but 2.5 way using Vifa P-13 + Vifa D-27-45-06 and a Dayton DC160-8 for the point five
Do you really believe brand has ANY effect on sound?
REALLY?
If so, strictly stick to one Brand only, or you´ll lave loooonnnnggggg sleepless nights wondering "what if?"
REALLY?
If so, strictly stick to one Brand only, or you´ll lave loooonnnnggggg sleepless nights wondering "what if?"
Well the short answer is that I can't tell any difference.
I also can't tell the aural difference between good caps and very good caps and ultra caps. I can however hear a difference between a good cap and a really cheap one. So while I don't believe that brands make a difference perhaps quality does where voltage rating are concerned. My wife tho says she can hear differences between the $12 cap and the $60- cap and these speakers are for her benefit
I also can't tell the aural difference between good caps and very good caps and ultra caps. I can however hear a difference between a good cap and a really cheap one. So while I don't believe that brands make a difference perhaps quality does where voltage rating are concerned. My wife tho says she can hear differences between the $12 cap and the $60- cap and these speakers are for her benefit
I can't tell the difference between good (e.g. Jantzen Cross-Caps, Dayton DMPC) and more expensive (e.g. Dayton PMPC, Rival) caps. I've mixed them up in my crossovers and have paralleled different brands to get a particular value several times; seems to work fine.
Geoff
Geoff
Please expand wot.
Always interested in expert opinions etc:
I've always believed that the "Law of Diminishing Returns" kicks in early with capacitors but "good" ones are not much dearer than the locally available cheap ones, there is a minor cost for going one step better than Jantzen Cross-Caps to Jantzen Z-Caps that While I can't hear I don't mind paying if others can hear the difference; but to go to the Superior Z-Caps is a five fold increase in cost.
So I keep asking myself if I should or not, ditto the question about mixing different types of cap; does mixing an 600V cap type with a 100V / 200V / 400V cap type make any difference?
Always interested in expert opinions etc:
I've always believed that the "Law of Diminishing Returns" kicks in early with capacitors but "good" ones are not much dearer than the locally available cheap ones, there is a minor cost for going one step better than Jantzen Cross-Caps to Jantzen Z-Caps that While I can't hear I don't mind paying if others can hear the difference; but to go to the Superior Z-Caps is a five fold increase in cost.
So I keep asking myself if I should or not, ditto the question about mixing different types of cap; does mixing an 600V cap type with a 100V / 200V / 400V cap type make any difference?
why use mundorf supreme when you can you mundorf ZN which is tinfoil?
my understanding is that tinfoil is better but maybe im missing something
Why buy at all if you have values in the stash is the real question.
There is an xo for that that uses the 3.3uf caps and is what I used in my version of the D27 + P13.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/diyaudio-reference-speaker-project.25590/post-1005310
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/diyaudio-reference-speaker-project.25590/post-1040262
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/diyaudio-reference-speaker-project.25590/post-1005310
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/diyaudio-reference-speaker-project.25590/post-1040262
The only place I really concentrate a few bucks on is the HF series cap(s), but I won't go higher in cost than the basic blue clarity caps. Solen SCR or other quality PP is just fine everywhere else. Inductors and resistors are a different story depending on where they go. Mind you, this is coming from a guy who has spent $1k+ on a pair of decent HF drivers if they'll fit the design criteria. I have zero hesitation mixing brands of crossover caps and coils.
I did see that and made a note of it but I don't need BSC and prefer a flat response, I also also wanted to use that 0.4mH coil with the very low DCR.
This speaker will be on the wall and touching the ceiling on top, tweeter on the bottom of the box. I may even extend the baffles height to get a smooth transition where the box meets the ceiling and add coving there.
This speaker will be on the wall and touching the ceiling on top, tweeter on the bottom of the box. I may even extend the baffles height to get a smooth transition where the box meets the ceiling and add coving there.
That´s one opinion I wouldn´t even DARE to argue against, so you´d better comply.
As of those suggesting to add real world components, such as inductors, resistors, Zobel networks, etc., yes, of course, real parts with real different parameters WILL make changes, both Electrical and audible.
Brand???? Not that much.
Price??? Same thing, unless accompanied by parameter change.
Yes, that will definitely kill/smooth some unwanted peak or dip; geometrical transitions/jumps always influence sound waves traveling across them.
As to combining caps for value etc, weird interactions have occurred in my experience.
Recently, I had mylar caps across some ASC X386 oil caps for value, and that was fine. Added a .002uF Russian Styrene in parallel with them, and they sounded broken. Removed them and great sound was restored. Not really sure why.
Recently, I had mylar caps across some ASC X386 oil caps for value, and that was fine. Added a .002uF Russian Styrene in parallel with them, and they sounded broken. Removed them and great sound was restored. Not really sure why.
This issue comes up time and time again on this forum.bottom line if you cant hear the difference between some cheap plastic cap and a mid price quality cap like the audyn tri reff then dont bother. You get what you pay for i guess. In the end get to a place were youenjoy your music.