Don't know, only that he made wood horns to order, not complete speaker designs. Regardless, at a glance looks like a 'sound' 😉 design, so if it's appropriate will recommend them and being fond of Jensen Ultraflex, Onken, #1168 also.
I built some simple conical horns for ESS AMT and GRS ribbon drivers and was very happy with the results. The horn gain (more like radiation angle focusing than loading) compensates for the rising response of the ribbon. I still have not found a better HF unit (to my ear) than the AMT-1 at reasonable price levels. And the GRS tweeters are almost as good sound wise.
Or you can downsize and consider a Devore style build with a Seas A26 and a Morel tweeter...
https://www.dibirama.altervista.org...-makako-2-vie-bass-reflex-8-ohm-300-wmax.html
https://www.dibirama.altervista.org...-makako-2-vie-bass-reflex-8-ohm-300-wmax.html
If you want a Devore style, this has many more oprions.
I haven’t got the XO from that variation in the big doc yet, but there is a different XO for the Morel. Note that the XO is somewhat suspect, where does the errant 1R8 go?
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/seas-a26-devore-style-build.369124/
dave
I haven’t got the XO from that variation in the big doc yet, but there is a different XO for the Morel. Note that the XO is somewhat suspect, where does the errant 1R8 go?
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/seas-a26-devore-style-build.369124/
dave
I built this speaker - but went with my own crossover (and bass driver - Dayton DSA-315).
They are a good-sounding speaker - but my only complaint is that they have a really really small sweet spot. The sound changes quite a bit if you move your head even a little.
I think it best to listen to them a further away. Here are some measurements on my speaker 0-75 (in increments of 5). Mind you - this is only 1 meter away from the horn. My crossover was specially optimized for a listening distance of 3.0m - and for the main listening axis at 10 degrees of center.
My brother likes them a lot more than I do - so I've decided to just give him the speaker.
They are a good-sounding speaker - but my only complaint is that they have a really really small sweet spot. The sound changes quite a bit if you move your head even a little.
I think it best to listen to them a further away. Here are some measurements on my speaker 0-75 (in increments of 5). Mind you - this is only 1 meter away from the horn. My crossover was specially optimized for a listening distance of 3.0m - and for the main listening axis at 10 degrees of center.
My brother likes them a lot more than I do - so I've decided to just give him the speaker.
Awesome and thanks for sharing. So many questions but will start off with:
1) Does it have a "live" dynamic sound you experience with hi-end JBL? (assuming you've heard JBL to compare it too). Joseph seems to think so based on his descriptions. This is what has attracted me and what I want to replicate. I was hooked when I heard the JBL 4367.
2) Did you build with 1" or 3/4" plywood?
3) How many sheets did you end up using? Important question as I'm trying to determine a budget.
That's enough question for now. 🙂 I'm most likely going to use an active crossover instead of passive, one I'll work on with Joseph.
1) Does it have a "live" dynamic sound you experience with hi-end JBL? (assuming you've heard JBL to compare it too). Joseph seems to think so based on his descriptions. This is what has attracted me and what I want to replicate. I was hooked when I heard the JBL 4367.
2) Did you build with 1" or 3/4" plywood?
3) How many sheets did you end up using? Important question as I'm trying to determine a budget.
That's enough question for now. 🙂 I'm most likely going to use an active crossover instead of passive, one I'll work on with Joseph.
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Paul,
In regards to your questions:
1) I would describe the sound as more "polite" than "live"/"dynamic" - but maybe this has more to do with how one "voices" the crossover
1a) I would not equate this to anything like the JBL 4367. My gut tells me that there will likely be a night and day difference between the two. I'm not gonna comment on better or worse - but I think the radiation pattern (and the resulting room interaction) would be drastically different between the two speakers.
2) I built with 3/4" Baltic Birch - if I was to do it over again, I would still stick to 3/4" BB. In my opinion, 1" would be way overkill.
3) I think it took me two 5'x5' sheets (but don't take that as gospel).
In terms of overall cost, I think:
1) Tweeters - $130
2) Woofers - $260
3) Baltic Birch - $200 (about $100/sheet)
4) Crossover - $275 (my version)
So maybe $900 - $1,000, including misc. I don't think I would sell them that cheap though - it was a moderately challenging build for me considering my amateur woodworking skills and the unique horn/bass cabinet design.
In regards to your questions:
1) I would describe the sound as more "polite" than "live"/"dynamic" - but maybe this has more to do with how one "voices" the crossover
1a) I would not equate this to anything like the JBL 4367. My gut tells me that there will likely be a night and day difference between the two. I'm not gonna comment on better or worse - but I think the radiation pattern (and the resulting room interaction) would be drastically different between the two speakers.
2) I built with 3/4" Baltic Birch - if I was to do it over again, I would still stick to 3/4" BB. In my opinion, 1" would be way overkill.
3) I think it took me two 5'x5' sheets (but don't take that as gospel).
In terms of overall cost, I think:
1) Tweeters - $130
2) Woofers - $260
3) Baltic Birch - $200 (about $100/sheet)
4) Crossover - $275 (my version)
So maybe $900 - $1,000, including misc. I don't think I would sell them that cheap though - it was a moderately challenging build for me considering my amateur woodworking skills and the unique horn/bass cabinet design.
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Can Someone share the DSP file for this build please. I have no talent to build a passive crossover or measure and configure active crossover. I have the Plans and the drivers.
regards
anand
regards
anand
How would you differentiate between than Manzanita vs Soubrin. for a medium size room
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An active crossover has not been developed for it as of yet. Perhaps in the near future as I've discussed with Troy.
I think going active makes a lot of sense.
I'm more than glad to share my crossover, but I just want to mention that I'm using a different woofer (the Dayton DSA-315).
Just PM and I'll provide a crossover.
Also - after living with this speaker for some time - I think I'll be really sad to see them go. While, initially, I was not sold on them, I've come to really enjoy them after playing around with placement.
I initially had them too close together (maybe like 7' feet apart) - there was a vast improvement when they were placed closer to 9-10 feet apart. The sound is sublime when they are further apart. When they are too close together - not only is the center image compromised, but you hear too much into the speaker (if that makes any sense). They do a better job of "disappearing" once they are further apart.
My brother is obviously elated to have them.
I'm more than glad to share my crossover, but I just want to mention that I'm using a different woofer (the Dayton DSA-315).
Just PM and I'll provide a crossover.
Also - after living with this speaker for some time - I think I'll be really sad to see them go. While, initially, I was not sold on them, I've come to really enjoy them after playing around with placement.
I initially had them too close together (maybe like 7' feet apart) - there was a vast improvement when they were placed closer to 9-10 feet apart. The sound is sublime when they are further apart. When they are too close together - not only is the center image compromised, but you hear too much into the speaker (if that makes any sense). They do a better job of "disappearing" once they are further apart.
My brother is obviously elated to have them.
Dkalsi, I bought several plans from Troy and am ready to start a build, but I’m stuck between the E-250 (dual planar) and the Sabourin horn.
If you can will you let us know how much horn coloration, if any, you detected with the Sabourin.?.
If you can will you let us know how much horn coloration, if any, you detected with the Sabourin.?.
What kind of crazy jigs did you use to cut all the angles? Did you use a purpose built table saw sled?