The correct procedure is to choose the driver first and then calculate the volume of the matching sealed box that suits that particular driver.
At least tell us the internal volume of your intended sealed box, as all three of its dimensions (height, width and depth) are not shown on your drawing.
At least tell us the internal volume of your intended sealed box, as all three of its dimensions (height, width and depth) are not shown on your drawing.
😆
So not a good thing.
I'd say: try...to put a driver directly attached to a volume which has boundaries too near to the membrane.
A cylinder is the worst, as the perimeter Is the same as the driver. Same for a cone, talking about 'constrictions'.
The bevel on the hole that holds the driver Is often seen, so One should ask why and does the speaker need to breathe?! Of course not
So not a good thing.
I'd say: try...to put a driver directly attached to a volume which has boundaries too near to the membrane.
A cylinder is the worst, as the perimeter Is the same as the driver. Same for a cone, talking about 'constrictions'.
The bevel on the hole that holds the driver Is often seen, so One should ask why and does the speaker need to breathe?! Of course not
Doubling posts...
So, no good for airflow.
In terms of 'sound of the architecture of composition of box & driver' a cylinder or a cone or a sphere are the worst.
They annihilate any good sounding driver - talking about near size boxes
So, no good for airflow.
In terms of 'sound of the architecture of composition of box & driver' a cylinder or a cone or a sphere are the worst.
They annihilate any good sounding driver - talking about near size boxes
At subwoofer frequencies, where the wavelengths are larger than the enclosure, pretty much any shape is fine.
There are quite a few successful cylindrical builds out there - search for "sonotube subwoofer".
Wik, your best bet is to confirm the dimensions with a little more accuracy (including inner & outer diameter), and make sure you can actually mount the driver in the tube. You might find that an MDF donut would be helpful - it'll give you something to screw the driver to.
Once you've nailed down the dimensions, you can work out the internal cabinet volume and start playing around with WinISD.
Chris
There are quite a few successful cylindrical builds out there - search for "sonotube subwoofer".
Wik, your best bet is to confirm the dimensions with a little more accuracy (including inner & outer diameter), and make sure you can actually mount the driver in the tube. You might find that an MDF donut would be helpful - it'll give you something to screw the driver to.
Once you've nailed down the dimensions, you can work out the internal cabinet volume and start playing around with WinISD.
Chris
I suggest that a larger volume would be necessary for most 12" full range speakers, requiring the cylinder to have a greater length.
However, when the length is large compared to the diameter, the cylinder tends to behave like an organ pipe, i.e., it resonates at a fundamental frequency and at a series of harmonics.
The tendency to resonate may be reduced by inserting absorbent rolls of BAF wadding, carefully positioned.
However, when the length is large compared to the diameter, the cylinder tends to behave like an organ pipe, i.e., it resonates at a fundamental frequency and at a series of harmonics.
The tendency to resonate may be reduced by inserting absorbent rolls of BAF wadding, carefully positioned.
The Fane Sovereign 12-250TC is recommended for use in enclosures ranging from 1.05 - 2.64 cu ft / 30 -75 litres.
https://www.fane-international.com/view-product/sovereign-12-250tc#tab-1
https://www.fane-international.com/view-product/sovereign-12-250tc#tab-1