Hi everyone,
I'm currently enjoying a single XLS10 in a mega tapped horn enclosure that a friend designed for me. Unravelled, the waveguide is about 4 metres long! It's powered by a Hipex PSC2.400 with DSP.
This supports the rest of my HT setup, comprising of a Yamaha RX3050 AVR and a 9 channel Atmos configuration using DLS speakers (for 5.1.4 in total).
So now, the point. The current sub enclosure sits happily in one corner of the room and due to future renovation plans, there will no longer be room for it in its current incarnation. So I need to come up with an alternative solution.
We're looking to build a 'media wall', with a storage bench going all the way along the wall (approx 5m wide). This will have a selection of cupboards and drawers to house AV equipment, media discs, etc.
So obviously I'm looking at the possibility of integrating a subwoofer(s) within this new furniture. I don't want to go to the hassle of trying to re-work the tapped horn design into it, so really I'm looking at sealed or possibly ported enclosures.
Now I've read a few threads on here about people's experiences with XLS10s, I'm familiar with the passive radiator concept, and also the port requirements for the driver (which may not be an issue with the amount of space I may have in the overall cabinet).
I do have two spare brand XLS10 drivers that I would love to use, so I'm opening this design challenge to the experts on here to see what's possible!
I've attached a few photos showing the current space, a cat investigating sub bass, and a basis wall example (mine won't have a fake fireplace).
Look forward to your thoughts!
I'm currently enjoying a single XLS10 in a mega tapped horn enclosure that a friend designed for me. Unravelled, the waveguide is about 4 metres long! It's powered by a Hipex PSC2.400 with DSP.
This supports the rest of my HT setup, comprising of a Yamaha RX3050 AVR and a 9 channel Atmos configuration using DLS speakers (for 5.1.4 in total).
So now, the point. The current sub enclosure sits happily in one corner of the room and due to future renovation plans, there will no longer be room for it in its current incarnation. So I need to come up with an alternative solution.
We're looking to build a 'media wall', with a storage bench going all the way along the wall (approx 5m wide). This will have a selection of cupboards and drawers to house AV equipment, media discs, etc.
So obviously I'm looking at the possibility of integrating a subwoofer(s) within this new furniture. I don't want to go to the hassle of trying to re-work the tapped horn design into it, so really I'm looking at sealed or possibly ported enclosures.
Now I've read a few threads on here about people's experiences with XLS10s, I'm familiar with the passive radiator concept, and also the port requirements for the driver (which may not be an issue with the amount of space I may have in the overall cabinet).
I do have two spare brand XLS10 drivers that I would love to use, so I'm opening this design challenge to the experts on here to see what's possible!
I've attached a few photos showing the current space, a cat investigating sub bass, and a basis wall example (mine won't have a fake fireplace).
Look forward to your thoughts!
Attachments
Greets!
Is this perchance the Cowan Audio Peerless TH?
Regardless, how do you propose to drive three 8 ohm drivers? Each with a dedicated amp, or parallel two for one amp and a single with another or......?
Tuned to the published 22 Hz Fs or higher for more mid bass 'slam' or lower for T-rex, bomb, etc., HT LFE?
Is this perchance the Cowan Audio Peerless TH?
Regardless, how do you propose to drive three 8 ohm drivers? Each with a dedicated amp, or parallel two for one amp and a single with another or......?
Tuned to the published 22 Hz Fs or higher for more mid bass 'slam' or lower for T-rex, bomb, etc., HT LFE?
you have three drivers? Just build three ported enclosures, there are no tricks. You can model up what you want as far as size and response. With three small enclosures you can move them around to find the best response and dial it in with the dsp. exp. 30L tuned to 28hz, 3" port ~ 20" long. I've used this box and it works well.
Understood, just curious since CA did a Peerless 4 m long TH.
OK, then either parallel dual drivers in one box or two individual boxes as modikai posted, though would tune to Fs or below for HT.
Thanks for the replies folks. I guess I'll have to dig out a copy of winisd or bassboxpro (from my old car audio days!)
Now the next challenge is packaging and aesthetics..
I wonder if there's a way to conceal these without a speaker grill being forward facing? I guess a down firing driver would be ok, what's the minimum distance from the floor? I suppose it may end up a bit line a BK monolith, although the port may need to extend beyond the enclosure, which should be fine, especially if it can be rectangular in cross section.
Now the next challenge is packaging and aesthetics..
I wonder if there's a way to conceal these without a speaker grill being forward facing? I guess a down firing driver would be ok, what's the minimum distance from the floor? I suppose it may end up a bit line a BK monolith, although the port may need to extend beyond the enclosure, which should be fine, especially if it can be rectangular in cross section.
You could also face the woofer backward and leave a gap between the lowest shelf/counter and wall. Though that might rattle things on the upper shelves more.
Basically, what comes out the port is quite similar to what the driver delivers. So both may exit via reasonable sized a slot. If you can hear the slot, it is too small. A closed cabinet can do just the same. So you may put a solid panel in front of the membrane and let it exit downwards, two or three inces above the floor. No need to see the speaker.
With a heavy membrane, soft suspension speaker chassis in "down fire" configuration, it will suffer in the long run. If you use them to their x-max this will get problematic. If you only listen at 10% level, this may not get noticed. From the data I found for your driver, imo the suspension is stiff enough to use it pointing dow. Even as I would not do it.
If you have to build your sub with the back to the wall, you should include this in your construction or the result may get too boomy.
I found different Peerless XLS10. If yours matches the data here: http://www.loudspeakerdatabase.com/Peerless/XLS-P830452
you should build a vented cabinet or, better, 3 of them.
I would go for a 35 litrer per chassis cabinet, tuned to 22-25 Hz. With this "special tune" you get a frequency response that starts to drop at 200 Hz, but returns to linear at about 50Hz, then takes a deep dive sub 25 Hz. With three of these and some tweaking of your DSP, you should get all the bass you may ever want.
I recommend to put them in single volumes, even if you build only one box. You can drive two on one of your Hypex channels and a single chassis on the other. That may feel odd on first sight, but with 3 of these 10", you should never see the limits of your amp.
In any case, use a simle microphone and some free software to tune the DSP for your room.
Modell the box in "winISD" for example, the most simple to use program with realistic results I know. You can import data from "Loudspeakerdatabase".
With a heavy membrane, soft suspension speaker chassis in "down fire" configuration, it will suffer in the long run. If you use them to their x-max this will get problematic. If you only listen at 10% level, this may not get noticed. From the data I found for your driver, imo the suspension is stiff enough to use it pointing dow. Even as I would not do it.
If you have to build your sub with the back to the wall, you should include this in your construction or the result may get too boomy.
I found different Peerless XLS10. If yours matches the data here: http://www.loudspeakerdatabase.com/Peerless/XLS-P830452
you should build a vented cabinet or, better, 3 of them.
I would go for a 35 litrer per chassis cabinet, tuned to 22-25 Hz. With this "special tune" you get a frequency response that starts to drop at 200 Hz, but returns to linear at about 50Hz, then takes a deep dive sub 25 Hz. With three of these and some tweaking of your DSP, you should get all the bass you may ever want.
I recommend to put them in single volumes, even if you build only one box. You can drive two on one of your Hypex channels and a single chassis on the other. That may feel odd on first sight, but with 3 of these 10", you should never see the limits of your amp.
In any case, use a simle microphone and some free software to tune the DSP for your room.
Modell the box in "winISD" for example, the most simple to use program with realistic results I know. You can import data from "Loudspeakerdatabase".
Whether a driver, vent, there's an end correction, so to the first approximation it's k = 0.732 based on this chart, ergo your driver's effective diameter*0.732 = how much you shorten the vent for a given tuning or space it/driver away from a sufficiently rigid/massive surface.
Of course make sure you confirm the driver can be bottom mounted. 😉
Finally got round to setting up my new PC at home, and cracked open Sketchup....
So this is very roughly what I think we're going to build.. now i'm realising there's going to be a false wall that the TV sits on, there could possibly be ample room behind the TV to build any type of enclosure I like.......
Now if we stick with a simple vented/bass reflex enclosure.. it's possible the driver could be side mounted on the inside of the shelf area, with a port presented somewhere on the same surface (could even be on a different shelf level..
The Peerless example application guide mentions a 20L enclosure with a 930x70mm round port, tuned to 25hz with a high pass to control xmax below tuning.
It's estimated at 105dB, and of course i'll have two of these, but still not sure how that would compare with my current tapped horn. I can't get hold of my friend who designed the TH, so no chance really of doing anything super special with this void. Not sure I want to go that complex either, as it's beyond my craft ability and everyone is just so busy.
So this is very roughly what I think we're going to build.. now i'm realising there's going to be a false wall that the TV sits on, there could possibly be ample room behind the TV to build any type of enclosure I like.......
Now if we stick with a simple vented/bass reflex enclosure.. it's possible the driver could be side mounted on the inside of the shelf area, with a port presented somewhere on the same surface (could even be on a different shelf level..
The Peerless example application guide mentions a 20L enclosure with a 930x70mm round port, tuned to 25hz with a high pass to control xmax below tuning.
It's estimated at 105dB, and of course i'll have two of these, but still not sure how that would compare with my current tapped horn. I can't get hold of my friend who designed the TH, so no chance really of doing anything super special with this void. Not sure I want to go that complex either, as it's beyond my craft ability and everyone is just so busy.
Is there roof space?
If there is roof space above the room is there the possibility of putting a couple of tapped horns up there?
You mention renovations and I thought this might involve some structural or ceiling work which may have given you access.
If there is roof space above the room is there the possibility of putting a couple of tapped horns up there?
You mention renovations and I thought this might involve some structural or ceiling work which may have given you access.