Hi,
Im fast running out of scavanged sockets and was wondering if 3D printed sockets coud work.
Ive seen this old thing from hackaday: https://hackaday.com/2013/01/15/3d-printing-vacuum-tube-sockets/ but that didnt really answer anything. You can 3D print basically any shape but if it will actiually work or not is an entirely different matter.
Looked around and i do have a lot of spring loaded pins that fit very well on the legs of a B9A or B7G socket tube i could use for the electrical connection but the heat from the tubes has me slightly concerned. PLA softens at 60C already, i could do PETG or ABS though but im not sure they would really hold up either. The glass is the main part that gets hot so i wouldnt be too concerned for something like an EL34 which has an actual base but these small tubes that have the glass right on the socket im not so sure.
Basically, has it been done with sucess before? If so can anyone link some models and what material was used?
Im fast running out of scavanged sockets and was wondering if 3D printed sockets coud work.
Ive seen this old thing from hackaday: https://hackaday.com/2013/01/15/3d-printing-vacuum-tube-sockets/ but that didnt really answer anything. You can 3D print basically any shape but if it will actiually work or not is an entirely different matter.
Looked around and i do have a lot of spring loaded pins that fit very well on the legs of a B9A or B7G socket tube i could use for the electrical connection but the heat from the tubes has me slightly concerned. PLA softens at 60C already, i could do PETG or ABS though but im not sure they would really hold up either. The glass is the main part that gets hot so i wouldnt be too concerned for something like an EL34 which has an actual base but these small tubes that have the glass right on the socket im not so sure.
Basically, has it been done with sucess before? If so can anyone link some models and what material was used?
I wouldn't bother with 3D printing. As you said, material softening is an issue in most cases. The pins of the tube can hit over 200°C easily.
My approach was to use PCB and pins similar to what you describe.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...-usa-large-9-pin-tubes-with-1-mm-pins.378427/
I made the B9E socket because nobody makes them anymore but all the other major sizes are still being made.
GD-Parts has a good selection:
https://www.goodcomponent.com/products/vacuum-tube-soket/c-59/
My approach was to use PCB and pins similar to what you describe.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...-usa-large-9-pin-tubes-with-1-mm-pins.378427/
I made the B9E socket because nobody makes them anymore but all the other major sizes are still being made.
GD-Parts has a good selection:
https://www.goodcomponent.com/products/vacuum-tube-soket/c-59/
Money mainly, could DIY them for basically free if it was viable. Shipping and shipping times are what make it expensive from what I've looked around
They're just over $1 each with free shipping. 3d printing isn't free when you factor in time and materials. Can't get much cheaper than this https://www.ebay.com/itm/320946349966
Half the price if you buy directly. No free shipping though but it's still usually cheaper.
https://www.goodcomponent.com/produ...r-12ax76dj812au712at7el846922-gzc9-f-436.html
While most small objects can be 3D printed, that doesn't mean all objects should be 3D printed- from a practicality standpoint- imo.
3D printing resins are not cheap, especially those with the characteristics needed for hi heat/ strength- which must be factored in to your 'low cost' objective. Since your printing software has to be able to design in 3D, create 2D from it and export .dxf file to cut your sockets from readily available glass load nylon or acetal sheet.
Both have required temp and strength modulus needed for this app, imo... readily available and relatively cheap.
acetal (delrin trade name):
https://www.ebay.com/itm/324866454089?hash=item4ba38cb249:g:4oAAAOSwV5FhhEqr&amdata=enc:AQAHAAAA4Ju3Zz88EcisNeOE4iDcvRacUylSA9OHyC03K7lEz9oFIj41ht3Ro3GPCpLL52qTS0OhLPJr65skU0+WrFXvsEmWAFfKSG3CYlO+FNCGTt4dgHdcv+rVkDRERxDDM9L7DI4Ycnphv52YWxtudurq8AYEWkfZW3lLDeRl3CpM4wiUNxm/4WzLQKQCZm64C7Tf2K+KZsRZY4Mq0c3+2U5ciJ1cx50X5AoL5rF117oZ1VzZW+dJsPnRtix4S3fyuMmdXb3EdrRAHIEd75DWoQIcVUnIRZZBthUiH83PNJWshehp|tkp:Bk9SR_a8_unwYA
nylon:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/284625472844?_trkparms=amclksrc=ITM&aid=1110006&algo=HOMESPLICE.SIM&ao=1&asc=241918&meid=31fc0612d0b74a0898bdb581faedb355&pid=101195&rk=2&rkt=12&sd=284626311253&itm=284625472844&pmt=1&noa=0&pg=2047675&algv=SimplAMLv11WebTrimmedV3MskuAspectsV202110NoVariantSeedKnnRecallV1&_trksid=p2047675.c101195.m1851&amdata=cksum:28462547284431fc0612d0b74a0898bdb581faedb355|enc:AQAHAAABIMFr2e4EmAnM%2ByHZkULYKDIJ4L66fOjNL0iupgt%2BzO1%2F3AE1t3mNirUYB96NktMCicMagiS6mbeTl0xquGODv9k0yQ5iQJwupVjuiDWr8owtNAbf5g9%2Fx5MneLF0U6zShnU6cwsHmdviIOF58kq3XnVedJCbg8%2FdfqIdl%2FzmCKx7ESYPGXXZvXi9EKH7yZu3sNKduFOSQVlKyLPVLoFZKAA%2BosV8%2Fuob4W%2FwutG%2FTwdtYaYPtWv1ystfDEyl0zkK7cDVnpgHppa02xJOAL1uG%2FWcV8g1mlw8NeCjt5A%2FynmiKrlHZjeLOCreD4y9zMu78ge59I0W4g%2FI7ubIJcjjgXaASH39MiiQ%2FC9yX2z6vXNHQP3AnRr2hbtJdKfPlb%2BMQQ%3D%3D|ampid😛L_CLK|clp:2047675
You could even 2D cut them from sheet phenolic... which what most originals were:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/334571052762?_trkparms=amclksrc=ITM&aid=1110006&algo=HOMESPLICE.SIM&ao=1&asc=241918&meid=847dbdfc4eac40b7a2312788230397e2&pid=101195&rk=6&rkt=12&sd=334378912530&itm=334571052762&pmt=1&noa=0&pg=2047675&algv=SimplAMLv11WebTrimmedV3MskuAspectsV202110NoVariantSeedKnnRecallV1&_trksid=p2047675.c101195.m1851&amdata=cksum:334571052762847dbdfc4eac40b7a2312788230397e2|enc:AQAHAAABIMFr2e4EmAnM%2ByHZkULYKDIJ4L66fOjNL0iupgt%2BzO1%2F3AE1t3mNirUYB96NktMCicMagiS6mbeTl0xquGODv9njH6LwjpcDW%2FpGU5og%2Bga53ugfSJOrwLG%2FliwnNxpVNLsoAg1SFKgEJBcHVs%2FNBiYWV8fbHXdzcSTZOKP%2FTt2IgzNPKOCWAbl3l%2BjZurTA3IFqPcjYhmYvogzDCwtwskfBHa2HpCbVmyIgrMuwnu7RR%2Fq9lANp0HI6U8MlSk3NfQJ%2F%2B%2FDYjMGfMWMiT7ocxJD9q%2F7K2l28kwSEYjRAPoHVFsJy1KX%2FpRqiLE8iR7OyiUAgAfyOpRVkDAwUDRYmnPOPPtY4cOGbt6Q3sB35nhwSSuc05LoAyR94Jxgx%2F%2FHUQw%3D%3D|ampid😛L_CLK|clp:2047675
Theres enough mat'l all of these examples to cut many sockets..
Jim
3D printing resins are not cheap, especially those with the characteristics needed for hi heat/ strength- which must be factored in to your 'low cost' objective. Since your printing software has to be able to design in 3D, create 2D from it and export .dxf file to cut your sockets from readily available glass load nylon or acetal sheet.
Both have required temp and strength modulus needed for this app, imo... readily available and relatively cheap.
acetal (delrin trade name):
https://www.ebay.com/itm/324866454089?hash=item4ba38cb249:g:4oAAAOSwV5FhhEqr&amdata=enc:AQAHAAAA4Ju3Zz88EcisNeOE4iDcvRacUylSA9OHyC03K7lEz9oFIj41ht3Ro3GPCpLL52qTS0OhLPJr65skU0+WrFXvsEmWAFfKSG3CYlO+FNCGTt4dgHdcv+rVkDRERxDDM9L7DI4Ycnphv52YWxtudurq8AYEWkfZW3lLDeRl3CpM4wiUNxm/4WzLQKQCZm64C7Tf2K+KZsRZY4Mq0c3+2U5ciJ1cx50X5AoL5rF117oZ1VzZW+dJsPnRtix4S3fyuMmdXb3EdrRAHIEd75DWoQIcVUnIRZZBthUiH83PNJWshehp|tkp:Bk9SR_a8_unwYA
nylon:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/284625472844?_trkparms=amclksrc=ITM&aid=1110006&algo=HOMESPLICE.SIM&ao=1&asc=241918&meid=31fc0612d0b74a0898bdb581faedb355&pid=101195&rk=2&rkt=12&sd=284626311253&itm=284625472844&pmt=1&noa=0&pg=2047675&algv=SimplAMLv11WebTrimmedV3MskuAspectsV202110NoVariantSeedKnnRecallV1&_trksid=p2047675.c101195.m1851&amdata=cksum:28462547284431fc0612d0b74a0898bdb581faedb355|enc:AQAHAAABIMFr2e4EmAnM%2ByHZkULYKDIJ4L66fOjNL0iupgt%2BzO1%2F3AE1t3mNirUYB96NktMCicMagiS6mbeTl0xquGODv9k0yQ5iQJwupVjuiDWr8owtNAbf5g9%2Fx5MneLF0U6zShnU6cwsHmdviIOF58kq3XnVedJCbg8%2FdfqIdl%2FzmCKx7ESYPGXXZvXi9EKH7yZu3sNKduFOSQVlKyLPVLoFZKAA%2BosV8%2Fuob4W%2FwutG%2FTwdtYaYPtWv1ystfDEyl0zkK7cDVnpgHppa02xJOAL1uG%2FWcV8g1mlw8NeCjt5A%2FynmiKrlHZjeLOCreD4y9zMu78ge59I0W4g%2FI7ubIJcjjgXaASH39MiiQ%2FC9yX2z6vXNHQP3AnRr2hbtJdKfPlb%2BMQQ%3D%3D|ampid😛L_CLK|clp:2047675
You could even 2D cut them from sheet phenolic... which what most originals were:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/334571052762?_trkparms=amclksrc=ITM&aid=1110006&algo=HOMESPLICE.SIM&ao=1&asc=241918&meid=847dbdfc4eac40b7a2312788230397e2&pid=101195&rk=6&rkt=12&sd=334378912530&itm=334571052762&pmt=1&noa=0&pg=2047675&algv=SimplAMLv11WebTrimmedV3MskuAspectsV202110NoVariantSeedKnnRecallV1&_trksid=p2047675.c101195.m1851&amdata=cksum:334571052762847dbdfc4eac40b7a2312788230397e2|enc:AQAHAAABIMFr2e4EmAnM%2ByHZkULYKDIJ4L66fOjNL0iupgt%2BzO1%2F3AE1t3mNirUYB96NktMCicMagiS6mbeTl0xquGODv9njH6LwjpcDW%2FpGU5og%2Bga53ugfSJOrwLG%2FliwnNxpVNLsoAg1SFKgEJBcHVs%2FNBiYWV8fbHXdzcSTZOKP%2FTt2IgzNPKOCWAbl3l%2BjZurTA3IFqPcjYhmYvogzDCwtwskfBHa2HpCbVmyIgrMuwnu7RR%2Fq9lANp0HI6U8MlSk3NfQJ%2F%2B%2FDYjMGfMWMiT7ocxJD9q%2F7K2l28kwSEYjRAPoHVFsJy1KX%2FpRqiLE8iR7OyiUAgAfyOpRVkDAwUDRYmnPOPPtY4cOGbt6Q3sB35nhwSSuc05LoAyR94Jxgx%2F%2FHUQw%3D%3D|ampid😛L_CLK|clp:2047675
Theres enough mat'l all of these examples to cut many sockets..
Jim
A more cost effective solution would be making PCB sockets in two layers, bottom to solder the pins then CA glue the top saddle over the pins to recess them from touch. This will be rigid. they should be outer profiled like a regular socket, saddle shaped, with the two mounting holes on center close to commercial spacing, oval mounting holes even better to fit many chassis. Two orders to jlcpcb for a panel of snap apart saddles with copper for the bottom layer, And a second panel order with oversized holes to go over the pins making them slightly recessed so its relatively safe like a regular socket. Both orders outer profiled the same shape. With Sprint-Layout PCB software, easy to draw it.
I'd not go to this trouble except for Novar sockets though, because Novar sockets are now unobtainable. So making drop in chassis replacement Novar sockets would be worth it I guess.
I'd not go to this trouble except for Novar sockets though, because Novar sockets are now unobtainable. So making drop in chassis replacement Novar sockets would be worth it I guess.
eBay links may be truncated at the first "?"; all the rest is tracking info and NOT something we need to see. (Also the forum has cleverly rendered the incidental colon-p as happy-face.)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/334571052762
This assumes I would have a laser cutter, which I don't. It's a good idea though, but I don't belive I am good enough with a manual mill to really pull this off even with a glued on template 😂 might give it a shot with some phenol though, if I could make the pins I found press fit into it then maybe making a few could be viable for something fast and cheap money wise.
Also a neat idea but I am not to keen on soldering to the pins of a tube. Could probably solder in those pins I found though and that would be an acceptable solution. Not sure if it would be cheaper than buying sockets but it would definitely be more expensive than I was thinking with the 3D prints and would take longer than I was looking for.
Either way I think this idea is pretty much not feasible and definitely not cheaper.
There is an interesting design on Thingiverse for adapting subminiature tubes to octal sockets.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2921573
The designer notes that PLA or ABS are not satisfactory materials due to material softening where the tube envelope contacts the materials. At a wild guess, I would expect the pins to be somewhat cooler than the bottle, and some of that pin heat would be sunk away by whatever is connected to the pins.
So it might be doable if your design kept the bottle spaced from the plastic, but there would probably be a lot of trial and error involved.
PETG prints at pretty high temps, so should be more heat tolerant than PLA - I have some but haven't tried it out yet. I've never used ABS.
If you're really serious about having a go at this, this might save you some preliminary design work ...
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:725410
Win W5JAG
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2921573
The designer notes that PLA or ABS are not satisfactory materials due to material softening where the tube envelope contacts the materials. At a wild guess, I would expect the pins to be somewhat cooler than the bottle, and some of that pin heat would be sunk away by whatever is connected to the pins.
So it might be doable if your design kept the bottle spaced from the plastic, but there would probably be a lot of trial and error involved.
PETG prints at pretty high temps, so should be more heat tolerant than PLA - I have some but haven't tried it out yet. I've never used ABS.
If you're really serious about having a go at this, this might save you some preliminary design work ...
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:725410
Win W5JAG
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Would if I could, I don't think I have seen a tube TV outside of a museum here. We've been pretty good at throwing away our slightly outdated tech through the last century here
Exactly!
I see no reasonable reason to not purchase new sockets, considering the low cost of such an item.
Because if it's such a burden moneywise, then another hobby should be taken up.
Like reading a book or weaving baskets.
Maybe you missed the "unobtanium" bit 😉
Nobody suggested printing Novals and other plain vanilla ones.
PS: and don´t despise the hobby,it in´t exactly easy s you think:
https://www.amazon.com/Basket-Weaving-101-Beginners-Techniques/dp/1522792287
Nobody suggested printing Novals and other plain vanilla ones.
PS: and don´t despise the hobby,it in´t exactly easy s you think:
https://www.amazon.com/Basket-Weaving-101-Beginners-Techniques/dp/1522792287
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As a TV collector it's easy to find free or v cheap B&W sets, early color is another matter!
The main reason I had to 3D print was time, I could CAD and print sockets in the time it would take someone to take them from a shelf and put them in a box 😛 and if I have to wait to build something, it's not getting built because I probably have another idea that I do have the stuff to build laying around.
Found more sockets laying around though so personally I have dropped this idea besides for like @JMFahey said, the unobtainium ones. I've got some tubes with fun looking curves that have sockets without even proper names afaik 😀
Don't even think about 3D printing them. Even if you find a material that can take the heat (hint: most of the 'plastic' sockets are more of a high-temperature resin that burns rather than melting), the pins themselves aren't cheap.
That said, some tubes have really strange, rare sockets. I had some PMTs that were like this - I think they had 14 pins that were smaller than the usual PMT pins. The solution for stupid crap like this is to create a PCB footprint with off-the-shelf pin receptacles. Cheap? Not in the least - each board ended up being about $20. But when you're back is up against a wall...
Last time I had to do this it was about 20 minutes of layout work, then off to the board house it was.
That said, some tubes have really strange, rare sockets. I had some PMTs that were like this - I think they had 14 pins that were smaller than the usual PMT pins. The solution for stupid crap like this is to create a PCB footprint with off-the-shelf pin receptacles. Cheap? Not in the least - each board ended up being about $20. But when you're back is up against a wall...
Last time I had to do this it was about 20 minutes of layout work, then off to the board house it was.