I'm a sucker for a bargain
These are both NOS and selling on eBay locally
The KA20 DMR and an interesting oval mid-range driver with a separate sealed can back.
Has anybody here done any work with the 50mm dome mid?
Running the test on the unit is seems to measure similarly to the old model Jaycar/Dayton dome.
I didn't expect much for my $10- so I am not really disappointed in the oval driver. Party box mids if I double up for power handling. Sealed box Fb is 300 and not much different to the domes really Louder tho and evident breakup although I was driving them full range
These are both NOS and selling on eBay locally
The KA20 DMR and an interesting oval mid-range driver with a separate sealed can back.
Has anybody here done any work with the 50mm dome mid?
Running the test on the unit is seems to measure similarly to the old model Jaycar/Dayton dome.
I didn't expect much for my $10- so I am not really disappointed in the oval driver. Party box mids if I double up for power handling. Sealed box Fb is 300 and not much different to the domes really Louder tho and evident breakup although I was driving them full range
Many thanks.
Crossing a few Hz lower than that as a trial it is nice sounding unit, I was actually wondering what tweeter to mate with it.
Might even go 4-Way if I can workout which 6inch midbass I can afford
Crossing a few Hz lower than that as a trial it is nice sounding unit, I was actually wondering what tweeter to mate with it.
Might even go 4-Way if I can workout which 6inch midbass I can afford
mmhh...the tweeter is not much important, as for 10-15 $ you can buy new ones that perform well. I'd favour 0.75" tweeters in perspective of making a compact 3 way- The woofer choice is important! I'd favour (!!) 5-6 " respect to 8"-10" old designs, as new woofers produce the same power for the size. The membrane is important ( well, general design is ) and with aluminum* ones you can overcome the break-up issue by going 3 way.
* or carbon fiber, or...
* or carbon fiber, or...
I kept playing around with this dome last nite.
It is nothing like the other domes I have tried to use, this is good, given my experience with the Jaycar/Dayton dome I wasn't expecting such clear vocals or violin using a simple 2 part XO
So using the design above as a starting point what would be the modern equivalent of the Peerless KP 100 woofer?
It is nothing like the other domes I have tried to use, this is good, given my experience with the Jaycar/Dayton dome I wasn't expecting such clear vocals or violin using a simple 2 part XO
So using the design above as a starting point what would be the modern equivalent of the Peerless KP 100 woofer?
@Moondog55 Do you still have this?!?! The Peerless KA20DMR is a functional equivalent to the DLK PN-1034 and I have been looking for one for a few years now to finish the restoration of a pair of Domus 3 speakers... The only ones I have found are in Australia for $70AUD/pair (about $47USD/pair) but they do not ship to the US. Do you think you would be willing to part with it at all?
I won't part with them because I really like them.
But I'm OK to buy a pair of them for you and post
Just be aware that postage to the USA is now crazy expensive
I'll PM you as seller has a few left and I was thinking of buying another pair
But I'm OK to buy a pair of them for you and post
Just be aware that postage to the USA is now crazy expensive
I'll PM you as seller has a few left and I was thinking of buying another pair
Could you share driver and XO details for that speaker?
Research before buying components and wood for this small project
Research before buying components and wood for this small project
I've been playing around with this dome midrange using the Vifa M-22 and I don't like the combination.
I did expect 500 to be too high for the 8" woofer
So a 4-Way is on the cards
Being and Old-School dome I think using a 6" mid-Bass makes more sense crossing at the 500Hz point and I am wondering if I should buy a Chinese made Vifa P-17 going cheap on Ali-Express or spend an extra few dollars on the SB17MFC units.
A pair of the Vifa would cost me $90- less
I have a set of 10" here for the bass duties so the mid-bass will only be doing 120 to 500Hz
Appreciate peoples thoughts there
I did expect 500 to be too high for the 8" woofer
So a 4-Way is on the cards
Being and Old-School dome I think using a 6" mid-Bass makes more sense crossing at the 500Hz point and I am wondering if I should buy a Chinese made Vifa P-17 going cheap on Ali-Express or spend an extra few dollars on the SB17MFC units.
A pair of the Vifa would cost me $90- less
I have a set of 10" here for the bass duties so the mid-bass will only be doing 120 to 500Hz
Appreciate peoples thoughts there
I thought you had a pair of SB17MFC that I sold you. Do consider the SB16PFC as very good bang for buck.
There is the cheaper NRX at $89-
http://www.theloudspeakerkit.com/sb17nrxc35-8-uc-sb-acoustics-6.5-mid-woofer-nrxc-u
I've just ordered the above midbass driver, it seems to have a reasonable plot.
It's only available while current stocks last as it is now OEM only.
Has anybody here used it, and if so give any feedback on it?
A passive very low XO where I'd want it will be expensive so I am now looking for a cheapish plate amp to power the low woofers, any advice here from fellow Australian forum member would be appreciated, if it means I have to learn how to make a small amplifier from a kit that will work too.
It's only available while current stocks last as it is now OEM only.
Has anybody here used it, and if so give any feedback on it?
A passive very low XO where I'd want it will be expensive so I am now looking for a cheapish plate amp to power the low woofers, any advice here from fellow Australian forum member would be appreciated, if it means I have to learn how to make a small amplifier from a kit that will work too.
Cheap plate amps in Oz is a thing of the past and DIY amps can be expensive to build. The second hand market could be a possibility but could always ask in the Swap Meet as a lot of amp builders have surplus which are not worth anything in my experience.
The cheapest plate amp I've seen recently is at Altronics but have no idea how good it is.
The cheapest plate amp I've seen recently is at Altronics but have no idea how good it is.
I have 7 "Cheap" plate amps here, none of which work and I've taken them out of the boxes and now using the boxes as passives.
The Dayton amp I wanted to use is no longer available but in this instance I'd be happy to pay more for what I want and need.
I want 2 mono plate amps that take high level [ speaker wire] input and a crossover variable between 80 and 120Hz, there was something like this from Dayton. even a 100 watts will overdrive the Jaycar woofers I need to use. So I have 7 * ~200VA toroids here
The Dayton amp I wanted to use is no longer available but in this instance I'd be happy to pay more for what I want and need.
I want 2 mono plate amps that take high level [ speaker wire] input and a crossover variable between 80 and 120Hz, there was something like this from Dayton. even a 100 watts will overdrive the Jaycar woofers I need to use. So I have 7 * ~200VA toroids here